Developing Saga of a Ford 601

/ Developing Saga of a Ford 601 #1  

commonrookie

New member
Joined
Nov 7, 2015
Messages
10
Location
simpsonville, SC
Tractor
NA
I'm new to the forum and new to tractors. This site helped me a lot as a lurker so I thought I would share my story as I work to get a Ford 601 (641 to be specific) up and running well. I made a bunch of mistakes have a lot of questions for the knowledgeable folks here.

I bought my 641 from a private seller in Kentucky for $2900. Upon initial review the tractor ran well, the PTO worked as did the hydraulics. It started right up, idles well and my test drive revealed nothing concerning. It didn't smoke looked clean and seemed well cared for the only drawback was the gauges we all dead. I thought I got a pretty good deal as it was in better shape than i could find locally. I put it on the trailer and took it 400 miles home.

Mistake 1, I tried to fire it right up when i got home. The battery would only give me 4-5 tries at cranking before it died so right off the bat i had a dead tractor. Turns out the sloshing gas in the tank had freed a lot of sediment and clogged the fuel line at the shut off valve. This took about an hour to figure out and resolve. After trickle charging the battery I was excited to get it working and prove to my darling wife that I didn't just blow our tractor budget on a lemon.

With a fresh charge and a clean fuel line the tractor started and ran fine for a day.

The following day the tractor would shut off for apparently no reason while driving. I suspected it was flooding as the exhaust smelled quite rich. after some research I decided to shut the tractor off for the day but shutting off the fuel and letting it run dry. The next morning it wouldn't start. Since the tractor was shut off by fuel starvation I had stupidly left the key ignition in the on position. :mad:

Took the battery to the autoparts store to test it and it was done. I think it was already on the way out but i didn't want a bad battery to give me misdiagnosis of problems going forward. I also inspected the points and found that I was lucky and the tractor had shut off with points in the open position.

The next day i began educating myself about the ignition system. I inspected the full system and pulled the plugs. I SHOULD HAVE DONE THIS BEFORE BUYING THE TRACTOR. Plugs 2 and 3 were badly fouled and throwing terrible spark. The fouling was caked and wet but they are firing and there is an audible difference when they I remove the plug lead. So i head off to by new plugs. The new plugs fouled in the first few hours. They still fire but have a wet black crust.

However the tractor now runs reliably starts easy but bogs down when going up hill and seems to lack the power I would expect it have. It burns some oil and the engine misses and pops a bit. I'm concerned that fine debris from the fuel tank entered the engine and ruined my rings but i've decided to get good spark before I submit to a tear down.

I began to realize that i was tackling one problem at a time with band aid solutions and not addressing the whole unit so I started over. I pulled the gas tank which i should have done first. I cleaned it with soap and water and put all my sockets inside and rolled them around to break free more debris. What came out shocked me. The tanks really didn't look bad at first glance but i filled a mason jar with crap from inside. I also removed the old fuel sending unit and replaced all the gauges. Turns out they weren't wired at all. No oil pressure line, no proofmeter cable, etc.

I changed the oil and filter. Pulled the carb and cleaned it out.

I replaced the old coil with 3.0 ohm flame thrower and cleaned up the wiring and electrical connections will be pulling the points installing an electric ignition from pertronix on monday. This was available on amazon for $100 for both the coil and the ignition which seemed like a no-brainer when you consider 40-50 bucks each year for a points tune up kit.

The new coil seems to have eliminated the problem of the tractor bogging down going up hill. It still slows but it no longer pops and stutters. I'm thinking my troubles could have been a problem with bad spark all along.
 
/ Developing Saga of a Ford 601
  • Thread Starter
#2  
The proofmeter was pretty easy to wire up but I don't have a clue how to get the fuel gauge working. I've installed the sending unit but can't seem to find instructions to connect them it appears to be electrical.

Where does the oil pressure tube connect to the engine? There is a old metal tube that which is junk tucked back behind hydraulic pump, this has been my only clue.

There is a small wing nut to the right of the oil filter. It's reverse threaded and appears to be an adjustment of some kind. It's not in the manual and i can't find it online. Anyone know what does?

Thanks for any help!!!
 
/ Developing Saga of a Ford 601 #3  
I am thinking a compression test may be in order to find out where your engine condition is. Soundguy is going to come along and send you down the right path. Until you can hook up with him search some of his past posts.
 
/ Developing Saga of a Ford 601
  • Thread Starter
#4  
A compression test is definitely in order. Soundguy has already taught me a great deal through his old posts!

I'll have to roll on a bit longer until I buy the compression test gauge.

I found a wiring diagram which shows how the fuel gauge should be wired. Looks like I'm going to be buying a new wire harness. Previous owner reduced the electrical system to absolute bare necessities so there was nothing to go on. With that in mind, where are these tractors usually grounded? Mine is grounded one of the bolts on the square plate surrounding the gear shifter.

I installed the electric ignition today and did away with the points. The combination of new coil and electric ignition seems to have made a huge improvement. I ran the tractor for 2 hours today and gave it it's best work out yet on 10 tons of top soil that needed pushed over and graded. For those considering this installation I think it's still wise to pickup a new distributor cap.

I installed new plugs before the 2 hour run and I checked the plugs after. They looked much much better than before but still show signs of early fouling. Before they were wet and caked, now they were dry but still showed a black coating. I think I'm doing a miserable job tuning the carb and may be running too rich. The engine doesn't respond much to the idle air adjustment. I think i'm going to dig back into the carb and see if the float is sticking or something.
 
/ Developing Saga of a Ford 601
  • Thread Starter
#5  
It's amazing how every "fix" begats a new problem!

The electric ignition is great but the morning after installation the battery was too low to crank the engine. Jumped the tractor and ran it for about an hour over 1500 rpm. Tried to start it. Same thing. Off to the store to get a voltmeter to try and track down the problem. Electrical system seemed to be doing fine until the electric ignition went in. I can't imagine how it would be pulling power since it is only connected to the coil which runs through the key switch. The battery is only two weeks old. I'll check the alternator, the ignition switch and see if there is a parasitic drain with the key off on the coil or the ignition. I'm suspecting the alternator since running for an hour didn't charge the battery but i'm stumped as to how the electric ignition, designed for 12v neg ground system and specified for my application could have killed or robbed power from the alternator. will post back soon.
 
/ Developing Saga of a Ford 601 #6  
I helped convert an 801 to 12 volts several years ago and the battery kept running down. The GM alternator was discharging the battery because the switch didn't isolate the alt trigger wire when in the off position. We added a diode in the trigger wire and problem solved.
Check the wiring to your alternator.
 
/ Developing Saga of a Ford 601
  • Thread Starter
#7  
There is a great thread on here about converting 6v to 12v. I'm heading out to check my wiring against the tutorial on this site. I know he by bypassed the dash light which, on a 601 appears to work the same as a diode.

I checked the alternator with a multimeter yesterday and it read 11.9 volts. Same exact reading at the battery which has been drained and is not charging presumably due to the alternator putting out less than 12 volts.

I'm headed out to check the wiring against the diagram and then most likley headed to the store to replace the charging light, get some electrical components and may be a delco 10si 3-wire alternator. It's in stock at my local parts stores as part 7127 with various remanufactures and clocking. I hear 9 is the most convenient.

Will update again soon. :)
 
/ Developing Saga of a Ford 601
  • Thread Starter
#8  
The new alternator went in with little effort. $29.99 from my auto parts store. I had to request the 63 amp alternator from a 79 Buick regal. the guy at the counter was stumped by any other description but had 5 options for 63 amp alternators for a 79 buck regal at 5 price points. :)

This is where things got interesting. I decided to install the new alternator with the original wiring to see if the wiring was the problem. It went in, fired right up and gave readings between 12.5 and 14.5 volts based on rpm. There was increased voltage across the system and readings were great at the battery, higher at the coil, and the tractor also ran much better producing much less smoke.

Awesome right? Think again. I left it run for about 15 minutes at 1200 rpm to see if i could get the battery to take the charge. When i went to cut the power the tractor, it continued to run. This is the behavior described in the tutorial for converting 6v to 12v but why in the world would this be happening with the new alternator and not with the old one?!

I bought an idiot light and will install later to hopefully break the feedback loop. This the same alternator, the same wiring, the same everything. The only thing different is this alternator is producing the appropriate voltage, perhaps the surplus is what is needed to create the feedback?
 
/ Developing Saga of a Ford 601
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Installed the warning light, in my case a simple 12v dash light. I can't get it to fit the old hole so i just left in line for now. I may try and fine the right size later. As described it lights up only when starting the engine and then goes off. Also as described it eliminates the back feed allowing you shut the tractor off properly. I mistakenly thought the tutorial was here on TBN but if you are looking for it, it's on another forum. Google "Ford Hundred Series 12V Conversion" if you're looking for it. It was exceptionally helpful.
 
/ Developing Saga of a Ford 601
  • Thread Starter
#10  
i wired up the fuel gauge according to the wiring diagram i found online. power coming from the same terminal on the switch that feeds the coil. Wired to the terminal "b" on the fuel gauge then the terminal marked "t" to the fuel gauge sending unit. The gauge pegs at full as soon as the key is turned and stays there until it's off. when i remove the fuel sending unit from the tank it drops to empty. it seems as soon as the metal flange touches the tank it pegs it at full again. any ideas? all components and wiring is brand new.
 
/ Developing Saga of a Ford 601 #11  
Is it a 6v gauge or 12v gauge? If it is the original 6v gauge it won't work with a 12v system.
 
/ Developing Saga of a Ford 601
  • Thread Starter
#12  
It's a 12v system and a new 12v gauge. B is wired to the the key switch (same terminal as the coil) "T" is wired to the sender, there is a 3rd post on the gauge marked 12v. I believe this as well as the copper post are for the illuminated gauge and grounding for this light. I've read elsewhere that these new gauges are more like ohm meters and i may need to actually wire the light in order for the gauge to work properly. I was planning on skipping this as I don't need an illuminated gauge. Mine didn't come with wiring instructions. If anyone has any that'd be awesome. Pretty sure most of these replacement gauges are the same. Otherwise I'm going to try a couple more configurations and see if i can get it work.
 
/ Developing Saga of a Ford 601 #13  
Ok, there are a plethora of sending units for tanks, so it's best to see if your new one has the same resistance as the old one. Here is the description of one I see:
Sending Unit for Ford 4 cylinder (gas, diesel 1958 - 1964) ; Replaces: 6 volt: 310940, 12 volt: 310941 This fuel sending unit will work with FDS275 and FDS276 fuel gauges sold by Steiner Tractor Parts. It does not work with the OEM fuel gauges. This fuel sending unit measures 8-3/4" long. It has a 14 - 122 Ohm Range.

So this sending unit would have 14 ohms of resistance with the float all of the way raised, and 122 ohms when it is dropped. Hopefully you can measure your old one (maybe not if the element is broken). What you are describing is a sending unit with the wrong values, or a gauge which is the wrong one, so that even if the sending unit is correct it will not read correctly. In other words, if the gauge expects the sending unit to be 60-240 ohms, it would read half full when the tank is full and empty when the tank is half full.

So they need to match each other, I would suggest looking up the part number that you have if possible to see what the specs are. It sounds as if the wiring is correct as best as I can tell from your description. The sending unit is nothing but a variable resister with one side hooked to the metal part of the tank and the other lead connects up top to the fuel gauge.
 
/ Developing Saga of a Ford 601
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Thomas, thanks for the suggestion I'll see what i can do about matching them up. The old sender is useless, rusted and corroded beyond function. The gauge and sender was purchased as a set so a mismatch would be super frustrating. I replaced everything with a kit like this one. Ford 601 701 2000 4CYL Tractor to 1964 4 Speed 12V Instrument Gauge Kit 67645 | eBay

I'll be able to get back at it this weekend and will post results.
 

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