Detaching LA681 Loader

coyote_hills · Aug 21, 2005

Hello - Have been using my first tractor (L3710 w/ HST and FEL) for a few weeks now (one of the absolute best purchases I've ever made). Mostly out of curiousity, I'd like to know how to remove the front end loader. I've heard various arguments on whether to leave it on while brush-hogging - which led me to think I might try hogging without it at least once. I've heard that the constant bouncing up and down while driving around is just that much harder on the hydraulics of the FEL.

Anyway, I was looking at the loader and it has two arms that apparently drop down to help 'stand' the loader as you un-hook it and drive out from under it. Can anybody please go into detail about how to do this? IE - do you tilt the bucket all the way down... or all the way back, etc... then set it down. Do you put any downward pressure on the bucket to take any pressure off the pins to be able to pull them, etc? The arms/stands that drop down have holes in the 'feet' that look like you are maybe supposed to stake them into the ground - is that correct/necessary?

Thanks!
Ken

Bird · Aug 21, 2005

Ken, we've probably got someone with experience with that particular model who can verify, or refute, my post, but I think it works the same as my B2710 did:
1. Find a hard, flat, level surface to park it on or it may be hard to get the FEL back on.
2. Swing those two arms down and lock them into place (doesn't it have hairpin clips holding it?).
3. Dump the bucket forward about 45 degrees (and you don't have to be all precise).
4. Lower the bucket to the ground enough to put pressure on it (a little pressure is all that's needed).
5. Pull those pins you mentioned.
6. Slowly curl the bucket (roll back) until the loader arms are free at the rear.
7. Shut off the engine, move the joystick around to relieve any pressure.
8. Unplug the quick connect hydraulic lines.
9. Start the engine and back away.

Of course, you should have a manual with the loader with the instructions.
And after you've done it a time or two, it'll take about 2 to 3 minutes if you're in no hurry. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

wushaw · Aug 21, 2005

The most important thing is to find a level piece of ground.

1. Raise loader and place them two little arms under the loader arms in the down pos.
2. lower bucket till the small arms touch the ground then curl bucket down to remove pressure ( small movements at a time , eng @ idel)off the loader attachment pins (big cad plated pins on rt. & lt. side of loader mounts)
3. Remove loader pins.
4. Curl bucket up so loader arms will raise up and out of loader bracket assy, once clear back tractor up about a foot..not too far to keep from streching your hyd lines.
5. Turn tractor off and operate joystick in all directions till bucket quits all movement ( this bleeds off all pressure to loader)
6. Disconnect QD fittings (have rag in hand to clean up dribbles) cover QD fittings.
7. Back tractor straight back till clear then go hoggin /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

After you do this a few times it will take less than five minutes for this process, The hardest part about this is making sure the loader is level to the tractor.

KennyV · Aug 21, 2005

Hello Ken…
The others from the south of you, have already covered what you need to know. Here is a scan from WSM for your loader, coming from someone to the north of you /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif….
I did leave off the pictures, but I think you will get it without them. KennyV.

DISMOUNTING FRONT LOADER FROM TRACTOR
.IMPORTANT
. When dismounting the loader, park the tractor on flat and hard ground, apply the parking brake. . When starting the engine or using the hydraulic control valve, always sit in the operator's seat.

Stand
1. Start the engine and run at an idle.
2. Raise the boom until the stands (1) can be rotated. 3. Stop the engine.
4. Remove the snap pins (2) holding the stands (1) to the boom and rotate the stands (1).
5. Slide the stands (1) to outside, then set the stands (1) with snap pins (2).
6. Start the engine and run at an idle.
7. Dump the bucket approximately 20 degrees.
8. Lower the boom and raise the front wheels slightly. 9. Stop the engine.
(1) Stand (2) Snap Pin
Side Frame
1. Remove the mounting pins from the loader side frames and
brace. .
2. Start the engine and run at an idle.
3. Slowly move the hydraulic control lever (3) to the "UP" position to lower the brace tubing (1) down about 2 inches.
4. Slowly move the hydraulic control lever (3) to "ROLL-BACK" position to raise the loader side frames up and out of the main frame sockets.
5. Stop the engine.
(1) Brace Tubing (3) Hydraulic Control Lever (2) Brace Support

Hoses
1. Slowly release the hydraulic pressure in bucket circuit by moving the hydraulic control lever in left and right directions.
[Standard Valve Type]
2. Disconnect the three hoses (3), (4), (5) with quick couplers. And reconnect the hose (1) remaining on the tractor to the hydraulic line with quick coupler.
[Remote Valve Type]
2. Disconnect the four hoses (2) with quick couplers from the control valve.
3. Place the protective caps and plugs on the quick coupler ends.
4. Start the engine and slowly back the tractor away from the loader.
(1) Hose 4 (4) Hose 6 (2) Hose 1 (5) Hose 7 (3) Hose 5

NoTrespassing · Aug 21, 2005

Hey, Congrats on the tractor purchase! That's the exact same setup that I have and I really like it. I bought the tractor used with about 380 hrs on it if I remember right. It's a '99 and I ordered a 6' Woods box scraper with it. Total price was 16,650 plus tax. Sounds like you got a pretty good deal to me.

I've put about 90 hrs. on mine in 2 1/2 yrs. At that rate it will out live me for sure!

If I'm going to use the 6' rotary cutter for more than a 1/2 hr. I take the loader off. It smooths out the ride considerably.

Enjoy!
Kevin

coyote_hills · Aug 23, 2005

Thanks for all the good information guys - I appreciate it. After reading the step-by-step info, I went back and looked at those drop down arms/stands and saw what I missed before... they will lock in place by sliding them outwards when they get into position and lock them w/ a pin. I completely missed that before! Durrr...

I'm hoping to find the time to try taking the loader off today. Man, that loader is worth its weight in gold. I knew I would use it a lot - which is why I only looked at tractors with loaders, but, I use that thing for even more than I imagined. It has to be the absolute best tool investment ever made.

Thanks again!
Ken

coyote_hills · Aug 24, 2005

Whew!! I nearly put myself a nice dent in the top of my Kubota just now. The FEL has a bar that runs from one side to the other at the back. This bar (besides making a nice 'grab bar' to hoist yourself up on the tractor) provides stability for the loader I'm assuming. Anyway... after removing the pins, everything was looking real good, but, then the loader lurched forward a little as it slid off of the cradle attached to the tractor and when it did, that bar fell just to the point of sitting on top of the tractor hood. I mean, it left a print in the dust it was so close. After I figured out what I did wrong (not rolling the bucket back enough), I was able to lift the loader arms (and cross bar) up and out of the way. All else went great.

...and my brushhogging seems a little easier and more nimble. I also discovered the other day that on this thing, you can't remove the radiator screen from the side with the loader attached. So this will obviously make things like that much easier when the loader is off.

Thanks a bunch guys!
Ken

(not that I won't post again if I have trouble getting the loader back ON)! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

NoTrespassing · Aug 24, 2005

Mine had a dent on the "gas door" when I got it. That is exactly how it happened. No big deal to me. I'm not that concerned with appearance. I plan on leaving this tractor in my will. Let us know how the reattachement goes.

Kevin

coyote_hills · Aug 25, 2005

Yeah, I figured that was probably a fairly common thing. It only takes once. I'm hoping to finish hogging the rest of the pasture today if I can get away from work long enough. I tele-commute from home and some days are slower than others. Heck, if I could only get my wireless connection for my laptop to reach to the four corners of the pasture, I'd have it made.

I'm serious about that bar leaving a print in the dust though - it was _close_ /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I guess the loader is fairly safe sitting there on its own? I've told the kids not to go hanging on it or messing around near it. I'm sure it's not a light peice of equipment.

I'm pretty much clueless on this stuff, but, trying to learn. After I got the loader detached and all the hoses disconnected, I went out to hog. On the first hill/mound, my blades hit the dirt. When I tried to lift the 3PT hitch, nothing happened. It took my pea brain a little while to realize that the hydraulics was one system and I needed to route the pressure that _did_ go to the loader, back into the system. So I took hooked the only hose back into what seemed the logical place and amazingly the 3PT was alive again! I'll let you know how it goes re-attaching it.

Thanks