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/ deleted #2  
Nice job Matt.

I've been a little leery of using forks like that.
I fear I would over load them and bend the heck out of my cutting edge.

Is this a concern of yours as well ?
 
/ deleted #3  
Yes, bucket forks can easily be overloaded. The typical forks that are made from 4.10 bar channel (approx 3" x 1.5") will lift over 1500 lbs which is way more than the average small CUT loader can lift.

I would be very careful with forks like the one made by the original poster. From the picture it looks like 1.5" x 1/8" tube was used. This narrow fork will put a lot of stress on the bucket. A wider fork is much better at spreading out the load.
 

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/ deleted #4  
Matt_Meiser said:
They are 2" x 1/8" tube. I'm not really concerned about bending the edge as I believe JD rates the bucket at 400lbs. And putting that weight further out reduces the rating as well. The main use these will see is moving brush, etc.
MATT,
You built yours very similar to mine.I will suggest however run your straps all the way around the bucket and hook to your loop handles.They will hold just as well ,as well as transfer some of the load through out the whole bucket. I have never bent my bucket,even after lots of use with maximum loads.Excellent job on the forks!!
ALAN
 

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/ deleted #5  
Nice job Matt, I also made a similar set, cant take credit for the design though Dave Miller told me how he made his and I followed his advise. Mine attach with a chain and binder,it holds them in place really well but it's hard to get the tension right. You have to move the end of the chain side to side on top of the bucket to get it where you can lock the binder. I like the way the angle iron on the lead edge of the bucket is low and leaves the bucket open. Maybe your strap idea would solve my tension problem. Does it seem tight enough to keep them from moving sideways?
I tried to attach pics but I don't think it worked.
 
/ deleted #6  
HTML:
The main use these will see is moving brush, etc.

You may consider adding some prongs to the top of the bucket so a log can't roll back and sit in your lap.:)
 

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/ deleted #7  
Nothing to do with your forks, I like the old gas pump. Is it a decoration only or do you have it connected to a tank?
 
/ deleted #8  
I made these forks and posted this photo a couple of months ago.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...0d1157264776-pallet-forks-p1030820rforks1.jpg

The chain I used at the back has links close enough so I can usually find the right amount of tension, and twisting it can give some fine tuning.

Not shown here, I later added a small piece of angle iron on each side to separate the cutting edge from the front chain.

Those are 3/8", 5400 lb binders in the photo but now I use 1/4", 2600 lb ones which seem sufficient.

My loader's lift capacity is maybe 800 - 900 lbs (guess) but the curl is far less. I've learned I need all of a heavy load within the closer half of a pallet or I can't curl it.
 
/ deleted #10  
Here are the pictures I've been trying to send since sunday. at least I think there here.
 
/ deleted #11  
MAtt: About how far do your forks stick out fwd of the lower cutting edge of the bucket??
 
/ deleted #12  
Matt_Meiser said:
I built them to stick out 36" + a small amount where the top tube is welded on (4" more I think, but I'm doing it from memory). I wanted to be able to get 36" of fork into a pallet.


Much appreciated!

Im working on sketches for an idea I have of a "do-all...fit-all" sort of thing. Forks as you have..except the bucket ends would be the sort that slide over the FEL lower lip and tighten down with that single screw type of thing! ( Im sure you ave seen that sort of attachment!!) A "washer face" about 3/16" thick on the contact end of the "screw" ...instead of the small bearing surface of the very end of it...and underneath the FEL bucket..another ..say 3 X 3 or 4 X 4 sq "pad" of ..again about 3/16ths for a "contact surface" of that ..??" clamp??" ( The material the bucket on my FEL is made of is THIN!! I dont need to bend it all to ****..if ya get my drift)

Now...In "addition to" the forks ..as you have...Id weld up a "grating"...such as the grating in a welding table!! ( 1/4" thick...as tall as the box member are..1" approx and in a verticle position..."on their edge" so to speak.) AT each end..both front and back..a piece of box member JUST LARGE ENOUGH to slide down over the "forks"...and the grating would be supported front and back ..each side by these "sleeve(s)"

If I wanted to lift a light skid..Id use the "forks"...if I wished to pick up "trash" Id use the "forks/grating? combo
 
/ deleted #13  
Sully2, I was planning on 36" forks also to get more fork under skids or whatever your lifting , Dave Miller, the guy who turned me on to this idea said he made his 28" cause of maneuvering around things. I took his advice and am glad I did,even at 28" they make it hard to get around in tight places.I've never felt like any thing was going to fall off because they were too short,not yet anyway.
 
/ deleted #14  
It looks like you need a chain box. This is square tubing with a strap cross the bottom. This keeps you from accidently dumping your chain.
 

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/ deleted #15  
JRP said:
It looks like you need a chain box. This is square tubing with a strap cross the bottom. This keeps you from accidently dumping your chain.

That looks like a good idea I think I saw that pic. somewhere on here before but I had forgotten about it.These tractors are so "compact" its hard to find a place to attach something where it won't interfere with moving parts.
 

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