Defective John Deere oil filter, now have damaged threads

[idahofarmboy]

Hello everyone,
This is my first post, however, I have been reading your posts for the past year and the knowledge I have gained has been invaluable, THANK YOU!

This is the first time I have not been able to find an answer in previous posts. It is a little long, but this is the shortest I could make it and get the details straight.
I have a 2013 JD 3032e that just turned over 50 hours and I was doing its first oil change. Old filter spun off without problems, by hand. I put on the new filter without incident by hand(3/4 turn past gasket contact), and when I started the tractor there was a waterfall of oil all over the garage. I KNEW the gasket was in place because I am OCD about that and thought maybe it was just not on tight enough, so I twisted as tight as I could get with bare hands(no wrench) about another 1/2 turn. Filled the oil up again and after I started the same result, oil everywhere. I then took the new filter off which required a filter wrench the ENTIRE time, to the last turn, to get it off. The gasket was still in place. I also noticed no oil had made it to the center of the filter.

Tried putting the old filter on, which was now tough to get on, but then spun free the last few turns before gasket contact. Started the tractor, no oil waterfall. When taking off the original filter, it spins free for a couple turns, then I have to use a wrench to get it the rest of the way off.

I then verified it was the right filter on JD website, it was, M806419. I then cross referenced the part number and bought a K&N filter at local auto parts store. New K&N was tough to turn at first, then spins free last couple turns until gasket contact(just like original now does), spun another 3/4 turn and so far is working fine, no leaks.

It is obvious no oil was passing through the filter. I think the back flow valve was defective and did not let the oil in. I think the pressure from not having oil pass through the filter put too much stress on the filter which damaged the threads, making it hard to remove after I started the tractor the first time with the defective filter installed. I don't think I could have damaged the threads intalling because it spun free when first installed and I only used bare hands to tighten.

My questions:
1 Has anyone else had a defective oil filter from John Deere?
2 Can the threaded portion of the filter mount be replaced by itself, or does the entire mounting plate need to be removed? I think it twisted out a little when removing the defective filter, and I think that is why I have a couple clean threads at the base now which allow for easy spinning right before gasket contact.
3 If it was a defective JD filter which caused the damage, will a JD dealer pay for the repair? I am afraid every time I do an oil change I will be putting more metal filings in the oil on the engine side of the filter when passing over the damaged portion of the threads.

Thanks for your input

 

[GManBart]

First off, welcome to TBN!

I think it's pretty unlikely that pressure bent/damaged the metal threads on the filter. Regardless, you can probably find out the thread size/pitch and get a thread chaser to clean up the filter housing. It's possible/likely that the filter housing can be replaced, but you'll need a parts manual to sort that out. In fact, you will save yourself a lot of headaches down the road by ordering a parts manual, and service manual for your tractor now...they're very handy when stuff like this happens.

 

[zzvyb6]

We're gonna need some pictures. I've seen issues just like this when the original filter was removed and the gasket stayed on. Now there would be two gaskets on there when the new one was installed. Leaks like a sieve.

If the replacement filter went on easy, why would it come off so hard ? Unless the overtightening bent something or cut the threads.

Things don't make sense at this point. Lets see new filter vs. old filter side by side for comparison in all views.

 

[deerseeker001]

Welcome from Wisconsin

 

[ruffdog]

It sounds like the filter threads were defective and didn't allow the filter to tighten up all the way. Either the 20x1.5 threads were not cut deep enough or the wrong threads???? You could use a die or a threat file and clean up the threads.

PS...or cross threaded!

 

[Coyote machine]

You probably just need to replace the filter housing nipple with a new one. I'd get a couple of nipples and keep one as a spare, just in case you have further problems. It's possible the hole in the housing is off center, and no matter what the nipple should not be backing out from removing a filter. The OEM nipple may be tapered to tighten as installed, and if the hole was overdrilled at the factory you may have to add some Teflon tape or Locktite to make it fit the housing correctly.

 

[idahofarmboy]

I agree it does not make sense, which is why I tried to explain in great detail.
The old and new filter do not look exactly the same. From other posts I have read this is because Yanmar who makes the engine installs filters made in Japan that do not have a US distributor. The JD filter does look exactly like the Mobil-1 filter which cross references. The original filter has the same diameter center hole and threads and also has the gasket the same distance from the center. Ther gasket was thicker on the original however, looks to be a more heavy duty filter than the JD filter.

I cannot give pics right now but both filters still had their gaskets in place. There was no double gasket or lack of gasket at any time. Like I said, I'm OCD about that.

I do not think it is possible to have been cross threaded because it spun all the way on, no resistance until the gasket seated the first time. Something damaged the threads while the filter was on. I can't imagine I have the grip strength to damage threads spinning a filter by hand, but it was either that or the pressure from the oil which had nowhere to go.

 

[Tx Jim]

I agree that simplest thing to do is replace the nipple(parts key 9) that filter screws on to. T110711 Stud - STUD ADD 9.48 USD

 

[idahofarmboy]

Welcome from Wisconsin

Thanks, I have been benefiting from the wealth of knowledge on this site for months.

 

[idahofarmboy]

I agree that simplest thing to do is replace the nipple(parts key 9) that filter screws on to. T110711 Stud - STUD ADD 9.48 USD

Thanks, I think I will get a couple. So, it looks like I can just put a pipe wrench on there to get the old one out. Is there a special tool or technique to get the new one seated well without damaging the threads?