Deckover Tilt Bed Flat Top vs Beavertail w/ Ramps?

[Crisswell]

We're struggling with a decision here about which way to go on a trailer. There are pros and cons to both for hauling a TC40 and attachments (FEL, 7' MMM, 6' bush hog, PHD).

Here's the alternatives:

1) 22' Deckover w/ Tilt bed flat top (4' fixed in front, 18' tilt)

2) 22' Deckover w/ Beavertail and fold up ramps

Both are equipment trailers (14,000 GVWR) and are really well made with more than adequate suspension for what I'll be using it for.

Here's the concerns with each as I see them:

1) The trailer has dual axles with single wheels. My chevy pick-up (2500 HD with a Duramax) also has single rear wheels. There's something about having that much weight 3' in the air with single wheels all around that bothers me - especially on medium to high speed curves.

We're also concerned about the loading and unloading angle of an 18" deck that pivots to the ground from 3' up.

2) The concerns with this one are the same with respect to ride height, but the loading angle is a non-issue. The big disadvantage is having to fool with ramps!?!

We've considered a low boy with a tilt deck, but having fenders in the way of all the uses there could be for this trailer seems like your shooting yourself in the foot.

Any expert opinions? Anyone with some experience with one or both of the alternatives?

Thanks!

Andy

 

[pekabu]

Have you received any prices yet? I hope to pick up a Pequa trailer by the spring and I am going through the same thing (except I am looking for 10k or less).

 

[George2615]

Andy,
I have a trailer made by H&H. Its 8.5 x 20" tilt bed with removable fenders. Its low to the ground, dbl axle w/single wheel, 22" deck height, 6"&5 1/2" Double frame and I Tow it with my 2500HD & Duramax. I only required the 7K size but they have higher capacity units. There's a few more pics of mine in the photo section under other / Mahindra. Their site is HHtrailers.net. Mine is the Speedloader MX.

George

 

[Dargo]

I used a bumper pull trailer for years and it was okay. Tongue weight is much more important with a bumper pull. With a gooseneck and bed over, you will not have nearly as much of an issue with the tongue weight. Especially with single rear wheels on your truck, having the trailer weight about 5' further forward will make it much easier on the rear if you're concerned about weight.

I avoided getting a bed over for nearly 10 years because I was concerned about having everything so high etc. Most all of my concerns were simply due to my ignorance of using a bed over trailer. I can tell you now that my 20' bed over with a 5' beavertail pulls and hauls so much better than my previous trailers. The difference in strength is huge. You just really can't get 12" I beams for your frame on a low bumper pull trailer. Also, there really isn't any difference in cost. Although I went with 10k axles, here is a link to about what I bought Trailer
Look at the list of materials that are used in the trailer and look at what you get for about the same price on a low trailer. Most of the low bumper pull trailers I priced gave me about half as much for about the same price.

I've actually found that not only does it trailer much better, but it is also easier to load. I like having the ramps with me and the fact that they are made as to where your trailer doesn't squat when you load. I only wish I would have not been afraid to use this type of trailer before. I'm much happier now that I have this type of trailer. Besides that, by the time that I add my FEL and a 7' rotary cutter on the rear, I almost need the 25' trailer. By the time you take the ramps and beavertail into consideration, you basically are using 9' of ramp to get to the deck level.

Good luck with whatever you get!

 

[Crisswell]

A little more background.

I already have 2 other trailers. A 10,000 GVWR 24' Haulmark enclosed car trailer and a 10,000 GVWR 8'X10' Pequa utility dump trailer. Both are bumper pulls, one ball and one pintle hitch, respectively. So I really would like to stay with a bumper pull so I don't have to have a whole new way to latch onto this trailer. I don't expect to be using it that much, although it's amazing the uses you find for something once you have it.

My big issue is safety! I want to be sure I'm not setting up me or my son for a rollover. I know they'll be a learning curve just like there was a few years ago when we got the car hauler. It's like having an 8'6"X 24' sail on the back when you're travelling the interstates with that big box back there. Sway gets your attention, but so long as you don't panic, it's very manageable. With this kind of potential problem, though, I'm not sure driving skill will matter much if your load decides it's going a different direction than you are!

Also, is the loading and unloading angle an issue when your deck is 18' long and is pivoting from 3 feet? The tractor has a high wheelbase so I would think that the angle might not be as bad as we think it'll be, but like the car hauler, will take some getting used to! And the 4WD should help, too.

What do you think?

Cost me about $4,600 used.

Thanks again.

Andy

 

[Dargo]

I'm not exactly sure what you mean will cost you $4600 used. Here is a brand new bumper pull version of what I listed before at $3950 brand new bumper pull . You can see the construction materials listed and the brand new 10 ply radial tires etc. Unless I'm misunderstanding something, $4600 used sounds rather high.

 

[tjkadar]

$4,600 sounds too high for a used trailer like what you are describing. If safety is a primary concern, I would go with a gooseneck. Our truck is setup to haul bumper or goosenecks. It really isn't a problem. Buy a new gooseneck, and with the money you're saving over buying a $4,600 used trailer, have a gooseneck hitch installed.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Andy, you might want to head over to Harrisburg this week for the farm show if you can get time. Lots of trailer makes and dealers in the large expo hall willing to make a deal.

 

[Crisswell]

Thanks for the info on pricing and the heads up on the farm show. I appreciate it.

As to the safety issues, here's what I've learned so far. The trailer will be 8'6" wide. The CUT is maybe 6'. With that kind of extra room, we should never have a problem with throwing it off on a curve, unless it's something really extreme. So that won't be a problem.

As for the load angle on a tiltbed, with 4WD and rubber tires, I've been advised that being 3' off the ground on an 18' tilting deck won't be a problem - even if the deck and/or tires are wet. You do, however, get the "willies" the first couple times you load and unload until you get used to it.

Any different opinions based on experience??

Thanks.

Andy

 

[QRTRHRS]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Thanks for the info on pricing and the heads up on the farm show. I appreciate it.

As to the safety issues, here's what I've learned so far. The trailer will be 8'6" wide. The CUT is maybe 6'. With that kind of extra room, we should never have a problem with throwing it off on a curve, unless it's something really extreme. So that won't be a problem.

As for the load angle on a tiltbed, with 4WD and rubber tires, I've been advised that being 3' off the ground on an 18' tilting deck won't be a problem - even if the deck and/or tires are wet. You do, however, get the "willies" the first couple times you load and unload until you get used to it.

Any different opinions based on experience??

Thanks.

Andy )</font>Since you already own trailers, you have experiance and an idea how a trailer feels while you are towing it down the road.

Let's start on loading. If the trailer is wet, make sure it is level side to side. Your biggest problem is going to be the steel areas. Just take your time using a proper gear so you have good throttle control. You should be able to actually idle on.

But then, why even start with a wet deck? Save that for later once you have done some loading/unloading on a dry deck.

If the trailer ramps feel to steep, park the rig so it is going down hill slightly but be sure to block the trailer wheels and front wheels on the truck.

Under any conditions, enough machine weight on some trailers will cause the rear of the trailer to be pushed down and, all things being equal, the front of the trailer comes up picking up the rear truck wheels. Plenty of folks have gone for a short (or long) ride while doing this. You can put some blocks under either the trailer or the ramps depending on the makeup of the rig you eventually purchase. You will want to size the blocks so that as the trailer drops with the tractor weight, you can still remove them. The blocks would still prevent total removal of weight from the rear truck (and parking brake) axle.

There are some really well designed tilt deck trailers that eliminate ramps completely. You never have a lifting problem with them although with some designs, as the tractor goes over center, the deck will level and the first time may bother you. Most designs today use electric/hydraulics that soften that sometimes completely.

Depending on the length of trailer and machine, you may have deck room to play with. Start by having the trailer looking level with the machine on. When you drive down the road, you will find out if you need to adjust the tractor position in order to enhance handling. To much weight on the hitch can lighten the front truck axle to much causing sway. To far back, the weight comes off the rear and may cause sway.

It is a sad fact that the combination that you set up on occasion does not trailer well. You may end up using a weight distributing hitch. Cross that bridge when you get there.

If you are not well versed in tying down the tractor, I suggest checking out the threads on that subject. Basically though, you need to secure all four corners to prevent movement in any direction. If you have a rear mounted mower, etc. on then that must also be secured.

If you have proper tire inflation and your rig handles well in a straight line then curves should not present any problem.