deck over trailer options.... spread axle, single 17.5's, etc?

[disney]

Finally time to look at getting a trailer, after not seeing anything I would actually buy in the local(ish) used market for more than a year.

Tractor (tlb) is roughly 8k, so a 14k trailer would be really pushing it, assuming a 20ft flat deck +4or5 ft beaver tail, likely with full width ramps, could weigh 5k, leaving about 1k for attachments, etc. I am one who prefers not to push things to the max, especially when failure could be deadly (accident). So I will likely end up with duals. I know 8k axles are an option, but... Not sure that's ideal.

Not many dealers around me, and those that are, don't stock much, even less for bumper pull, So I plan on ordering. And that means choices. I wish I could see list prices somewhere, so I would know what options were expensive (guessing hydraulic dove and disc brakes), and what is not (was told desert tan paint could be had for under 100$) I don't mind spending more money when it is a good value, or great benefit. Say an axle upgrade (larger brakes, bearings, etc) was only a few hundred, I would be foolish not to get it, if that same upgrade was a few thousand, I would say not worth it.

What are the down sides (if any) to the lower height decks with the pierced frames, and diamond plate over the wheels? Anyone know roughly the cost? One place said didn't know, the other not much, but would not even give a loose Number $500,1k, 2k. Both wanted me to fill out paperwork first?? I am likely leaning pj/load trail, but open to others, if either much better, or same quality for great savings.

I saw options for spread axles, 6" or 72". I think I could see that being helpful in not overloading the tongue (excursion and dually as tow vehicles), or helping to widen the sweet spot for a balanced load. I could see tire scrub being an issue, especially on the 6' spread, but should also drive better--less likely to sway, and maybe ride better?

Trailer will sit out (fl sun and rain), so the rubber inlaid wood floor might not last, so I will not plan on that option. It will not see many miles (doubtful 500 a year), some local trips, some highway trips to buy ____ a few hours away. Given it will be sitting, and then might be called into service to leave in 1/2 hour (hook up, check lights, tire pressure, and quick brake controller check) Would that change anything--in terms of options (brakes, axles, suspension, tires)? Being the low mileage, and Lack of redundancy, I am not sure getting 17.5" 10k singles would be worth it, or would it?

I would like to have this trailer for decades, with hopefully only replacing decking to age, tires to age, and maybe brake component due to lack of use. Would disc's be better for low use? I would think the rotors would rust real bad where the pad is.

Congratulations if you made it this far, and thank you for any, and all advice you have to offer.

Before I start a hatfield/mcCoy fight, I personally do not want a trailer with fenders, so we can eliminate that choice.

I am not used to oil bath axles, found some posts about leak issues, what are overall experiences with them?

 

[Btown]

Your math is a little off. 8,000 + 5,000 is 13,000. Take off the 10-15% tongue weight. 13,000- 1,300(10%)= 11,700. Now you have over 2,300 lbs for attachments. But I do agree if you are maximizing the weight on a daily basis. Better to have a higher rated trailer, but the weight of those go up fast too.

 

[Rustyiron]

I have a dually and after keeping up with 8 tires would have me thinking real hard about the 17.5's
Pierced frame & oil bath axle's are "everyday" items on heavier commercial trailers. Sound's like your putting together a real nice trailer!

 

[disney]

I have a dually and after keeping up with 8 tires would have me thinking real hard about the 17.5's
Pierced frame & oil bath axle's are "everyday" items on heavier commercial trailers. Sound's like your putting together a real nice trailer!

What do you mean by keep up with the 8 tires? If its checking pressure, Im ok with that, if its replacement for damage, well a 16 is much cheaper than a 17.5. I want to thank you for your response, and the compliment for a future trailer.

 

[Rustyiron]

Well the price of the 17.5 is something I did not consider, but in general you have twice the number of tires and the inside tires on a dually are a pita to check & air up. Tires & batteries are always something I seem to be replacing and definitely influenced my answer.:laughing:

 

[Looking4new]

Personally, I would go with a tandem axle on a 48-52" spread, Load range D or higher tires and the highest rating you can get with drum brakes [convince me why disk would be needed] all around and a 4" beaver tail with 2" ramps that slide either closer together or farther apart as needed. If you plan on moving stuff with tricycle steering (row crop steering) then I would go for a third ramp.
As for decking, I would go with wood and oil the snot out of it. A bumper pull with a pintle hook and lunnette is the only way to go IMHO.

P.S. The only reason I didn't suggest a tri-axle setup is because they are a P.I.T.A. to back up.

 

[blackrams]

Maybe I missed it but, I'm going to assume you are looking at gooseneck trailers. They do make bumper pulls that could qualify with what you describe.

Regardless, my advice is to always go bigger than you think you're going to need. I'm also not a fan of duals. Personally, if the transported loads/weight require tandem duals, I'd rather go with triple (single tire) axles. That does bring in other issues but, I don't like duallies. Just my opinion. With my luck, it's always the inside dual that goes. To add to that, you won't always know that tire has gone down and sure enough, now you'll have two flat tires. Been there, done that.

That brings up another point, I own five different trailers, three are goosenecks. Every trailer I have has two spare tires. I have found the need and don't ever want to have to unload or unhook to go find new tires while leaving equipment on the side of the road again. Been there, done that. Having said that, don't depend on the jack in your tow vehicle to be sufficient to lift that axle to change that tire. Especially when loaded. Don't ask how I know this.

Personally, I use tandem single tire axles on all of my goosenecks. The deck over trailer has Super 8s instead of the 7K lb. axles you will normally find on such trailers. I also have a "low boy" gooseneck that I use more frequently. I always try to match the trailer with the load. I actually prefer to use the "low boy" trailer. Yes, it has fenders but, it works for the majority of my needs. I only bought the deck over because I do transport the newer Ram 4500/5500 and Ford F450/F550s frequently and they are about two inches wider than one ton trucks. Don't ask me why, I don't know. Doesn't matter, they ride on the deck over trailer when that need comes up.

Every trailer I have has a winch installed on it, they do not have batteries installed on the trailers. I have wired my truck to provide electrical power to the trailer winches. Used to mount batteries on my trailers but after having a couple of batteries that were secured with locks stolen, I put an end to that problem. The wire connectors are the type that are used on fork trucks and more than capable to handle the amperage needed.

Reference wheel bearings, go with what ever you're comfortable with. All of my trailer bearings are grease and not oil bath but, that's cause that's what they came with. I have no issues with an oil bath bearing. They are proven to work on the commercial truck/trailers and I would not be afraid to go that route.

Tires, never go cheap, you get what you pay for. Get what ever load rating you're supposed to go with, never (unless it's an emergency) substitute a passenger car tire. It'll blow long before it's worn out. While I'm on tires, trailer tires rarely wear out, especially if, they aren't used a bunch. Most dry rot. To get the best longevity and miles out of your tires, spend a few bucks and provide those tires with solar protection. Ultra-violet light destroys tires.

Securing your load, Can't tell you how important that is. Get good tie downs (whether that's chains or straps) that are rated for the load, ensure tie down points on both the trailer and the load are sufficient for when that emergency stop is required. Notice, I didn't say if, it's definitely a when. I really think that other driver's don't have a clue as to how long it takes to bring a big trailer to an emergency stop. I assure you, people will pull out in front of you and cut you off repeatedly. Been there, done that.

Brakes and lights. Can't have too many lights letting others know you're there. Brakes, check frequently and set your brake controller to an appropriate level to handle the load. When pulling empty, adjust that brake controller so you're not burning up those tires when you apply the brakes.

Ensure your tow vehicle is rated to pull the trailer you're coupling to. DOT can and will pull over if you're pulling (as an example) pulling a dually trailer with a 1/2 ton pick up. The tow vehicle must be rated to handle the potential load and trailer weight.

Edited: Oh Yeah, one other thing. I make it a habit to check the tires and bearing on my rigs at every stop, I do it religiously. Heat is the first indication of a failure about to occur. Honestly, it isn't a 100% guarantee but, has saved me from being broke down out in the middle of no where a few times.
Whatever you choose, good luck and be safe out there. :drink:

 

[Todd727]

I thought about going with Super Single tires, but then I realized you give up the redundancy of having two tires. If one of the duals goes flat, I can still move the trailer without worry, as the axle is still supported and usually you won't even damage the flat tire. If you lose a Super Single, you end up dropping the end of that axle and running on the rim.

 

[blackrams]

I thought about going with Super Single tires, but then I realized you give up the redundancy of having two tires. If one of the duals goes flat, I can still move the trailer without worry, as the axle is still supported and usually you won't even damage the flat tire. If you lose a Super Single, you end up dropping the end of that axle and running on the rim.

There are draw backs to every option. You make a decision and then play the cards you're dealt.
I've actually followed dual/tandem axle trailers and observed tires coming apart and the operator/driver didn't have a clue he had a tire down until I got his attention.

Have seen both tires on a dual set up get ruined also so, it all depends on factors one can not always control.
One must decide what one wants. I have chosen what I think works for me. That's not to say those who have chosen to go with dual tandems have made bad decisions. Just different than the way I would go.

Rams

 

[Lineman North Florida]

I bought 25+5 gooseneck trailer with a pierced frame and I ordered it with 17.5 super singles, the price was no different than dual tandems and I love the super singles on the 2- 10k axles, this was on a Gatormade trailer, to me the super singles pull better than the tandems, but that is personal preference I believe either will serve you well.