Deadhead the Hydraulic pump

[hbaird]

I did not completely plug together the QC and tried to start the engine. It did not turn over. Fixed the QC and now the pump is pumping OK. I am watching to see if Hydraulic fluid gets into the engine oil. Will the pump always fail under this situation? Will a rebuild kit fix it? I have a JM 200LE manufactured 07/2004. Three cylinder not two. Another thread had a kit not working for his old pump. The good news is I mounted a K140 loader this week. Works well on my 2WD Jinma. I put R4's on the back and I get better traction on my yard without the grass damage. It is way too easy to pick up the front end. I have the wheel weights on and a 4ft box blade for rear end ballast. Moving dirt is much faster than the shovel and wheel barrow method. Phase two will be a Backhoe for service and ballast. I found this picture somewhere on the net showing some one has done it.

 

[RonMar]

You probably did not do any real damage. Since it was basically open when you tried to start, it only hydrauically locked and had to withstand the force from the starter motor. This is a pretty small force compared to some other scenarios. What can really do damage is when the engine is at higher RPM and the fitting comes loose. Then the pump has to deal with the momentum of the spinning mass of crank, flywheel, gearbox and possibly rolling tractor... At any rate, if damaged in this fashion, it should be repairable with a seal kit, provided the housing was not cracked/deformed by the sudden overpressure or the spinning parts were not twisted.

If you have not done so already, I would highly reccomend a large zip-tie around all the female QC fittings just behind the locking collar. This will prevent the collar from inadvertantly being retracted by debris you may drive over/thru or a curious onlooker(kids/grandkids), without the use of wire cutters or a knife to cut the ziptie.

This has been called "cheap insurance", and I would agree.

 

[bluechip]

The fact that the engine did not start indicates the seals held the pressure. Had it started.... As for someones kit not working. we have seen this often. the kit is only about a third the cost of a pump, but it seems to only fix the problem some of the times I don't have statistics on how many repaired pumps function properly after installing the kit. I'm guessing less than half.

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

I did not completely plug together the QC and tried to start the engine. It did not turn over. Fixed the QC and now the pump is pumping OK. I am watching to see if Hydraulic fluid gets into the engine oil. Will the pump always fail under this situation? Will a rebuild kit fix it? I have a JM 200LE manufactured 07/2004. Three cylinder not two. Another thread had a kit not working for his old pump. The good news is I mounted a K140 loader this week. Works well on my 2WD Jinma. I put R4's on the back and I get better traction on my yard without the grass damage. It is way too easy to pick up the front end. I have the wheel weights on and a 4ft box blade for rear end ballast. Moving dirt is much faster than the shovel and wheel barrow method. Phase two will be a Backhoe for service and ballast. I found this picture somewhere on the net showing some one has done it.

You got pretty good odds there is no damage done to the pump....lucky.

For a rebulid kit to work ........ the pump has to inspected for wear /damage first.

Your Koyker loader should have come with a set [pair] of replacement hydraulic quick connects.

If you are using the factory china ones on the tractor and only installed a male & female on the loader which means mixed matched ...... it will dead head again.

I have had more reports of the hyd pump spliting when dead head happens as well as pump seal.

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[hbaird]

Thank you all for the replies. The pump is working normally. The engine oil level is a little high but I can't say for sure I didn't make that way my self by over filling. I am using the Koyker QC's. I will change the oil this week and make the level correct to start.
Thanks again,
Harold

 

[billbill1]

I put worm drive hose clamps around my QD's instead of wire ties (a tip I picked up from tat2z69, thank you Jim) and I installed a relief valve right after the hydraulic pump that I bought from Surplus Center for about $30. Cheap insurance that can save you a bunch of headaches down the road.

 

[Harrygoodwrench]

I put worm drive hose clamps around my QD's instead of wire ties (a tip I picked up from tat2z69, thank you Jim) and I installed a relief valve right after the hydraulic pump that I bought from Surplus Center for about $30. Cheap insurance that can save you a bunch of headaches down the road.

Good idea with the relief valve.

BTW. Has anyone heard from Taz1969?

 

[billbill1]

Harry, not a word, he just suddenly dropped off of the face of the earth. I was getting some emails from him but not for the past 6 months or so.

 

[Soundguy]

Good idea with the relief valve.

BTW. Has anyone heard from Taz1969?

Deffinately a good idea on both!

Soundguy

 

[SHIFTER22]

is this site still active, not much action according to the dates posted