Backhoe Damaged my backhoe

[hayden]

I managed to damage my backhoe (Kubota 4690). I noticed oil leaking from the bucket cylinder and closer inspection revealed a gouge in the cylinder rod. When the seal is over the gouge, oil leaks out as you might imagine. I must have shoved a big rock and smashed it without knowing. Time to price a new rod and/or whole cylinder.

The good news is that I think I can safely say my backhoe has paid for itself with all I've done on my new well and water line project.

 

[glennmac]

Peter, I really think this the higher power's way of telling you to trade your hoe in on a Bradco 509 ... attached to a 3710 ... attached to three-spool tnt ... attached to 4n1 bucket ... attached to Michelin radial tires. It seems plain as day.

 

[HalseyGreen]

All may not be lost, I have repaired rusted/pitted cyclinder rods using epoxy. Clean the rod well to remove the oil, then fill and smooth the gouge with epoxy. JB weld would probably work here also. If you have a Dremel tool, under cut the gouge slightly so that the epoxy will have something to grip onto.

 

[RichNJ]

I have also used epoxy to repair hydraulic leaks. In my case the problems were from rust pits. Don't use a "quick" epoxy. They usually can not handle higher temps and are not as strong as the 24 hour epoxies. It may take more than one layer of epoxy to get it perfectly smooth. Just sand lightly between coats with 400 sandpaper.

 

[rbargeron]

Hayden - I put a kink in a dipper cylinder rod once, complete with gouges. In "straightening" it even more damage was done to the surface - and it now had two small kinks instead of one big one. All the gouges were filed, sanded and some JBweld was put in the deeper holes and it worked fine for several more years. It did leak a small amount but not enough to justify replacing either the rod or the cylinder. I was surprised at how much irregularity the seals could tolerate.

 

[JerryG]

Hayden,
If the problem area is not too large, just fix it. Get some JB Weld and put it in the groove then sand lightly with emery cloth. I bet that it would work. I have used JB Weld in the combustion chamber on cars and aluminum motorcycle cylinder heads. These areas work under a lot of pressure and also higher heat that the cylinder does. And even if it doesn’t work you wouldn’t have much invested in it. Just make sure that you get all of the oil out of the wound.

I guess I was a little late with this line of repair. I need to watch the dates on these posts.<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by JerryG on 09/07/01 01:08 PM (server time).</FONT></P>

 

[ronjhall]

Peter
I have a friend whose business is to hard chrome cylinder and piston rods from backhoes and other construction equipment. After he polishes rod down it is hard chromed. Then it is polished to make correct diameter and finish. It can be done is 2 days and save over half the cost of a new one. May not work on your small rod but something to think about if polishing and epoxy doesn’t work.

 

[hayden]

I've got all the brochures out and after spending a grand total of 7 days digging a well, 400 feet of trench, laying pipe, jack hammering ledge, and backfilling, I think that's exactly the right solution. Unfortunately, the stock market and my bank account don't agree. Maybe in a few years I can sell my company, but until then ....

Besides, the dream consists of a 4610, not a 3710, and a Bradco 611, not a 509. I'm sick of all this repositioning of the tractor. Next time I want to dig the whole 400 feet in one scoop without repositioning once! Then I'll need a wider snow blower, bigger field mower, etc.

 

[hayden]

Thanks for the tips, especially the JBWeld one. Never heard of the stuff before this. A new rod is $100 and a seal kit is about $30. If I can salvage the rod then maybe a new seal will do it.

 

[Boondox]

Peter -- How is the repair holding up? And are you still happy with the choice of a Kubota BH over a frame-mount like the Woods? Looks like I might have some digging to do if the springhouse remains dry...

Pete

www.GatewayToVermont.com

 

[hayden]

Yes, I got it all back together. My dealer repaired the swing cylinder which was leaking due to paint overspray on the rods. I also tried the JB Weld repair trick on the bucket cylinder that I mashed up at so far it's holding, but I haven't used it much. The repair will at least reduce the leaking to s very slow drip. If it is too much, I might just swap the bucket cylinder with one of the stabilizer cylinders since they are the same. I figure the stabilizer is in the offending position much less that the bucket so it's the prefered place to have the problem.

A replacement rod and seal kit are about $125 plus labor I figure will bring the repair price to about $250. It's not that much, but $250 is $250, so I'll see how the repair holds up.

As for the BH, yes, I'm still happy with the choice, given that woods is the alternative for my tractor. The lower ground clearance, excessive rear overhang, and large size of the unmounted BH make the woods frame unacceptable for me. In my dreams of a 4610, I've been seeing a Bradco 511 or 609, which is a well designed frame mount with none of the woods disadvantages and all of the benefits of a frame. Thanks to Glennmac for the tip off on the Bradco. Unfortunately, they don't make a mounting kit for the 2910, but it is available for your 3010. I haven't priced the Bradcos, but I hear they are more expensive.

By the way, I've got water back in both my wells. You're still dry?

 

[Boondox]

Yup. Dry as a bone. But the springhouse abandoned decades ago is overflowing. Go figure!

Pete

www.GatewayToVermont.com