D170 - extending K46 transmission life?

[TX mower]

After much research including reading laments about the K46 transmission, I've just purchased a D170 / 54" deck.

This will be dedicated to mowing only, ~5AC of level ground in hot central Texas.

In spite of many interweb posts suggesting that the K46 (variant "BE" w/internal reservoir in this case) is 'sealed' and 'can't be maintained', and similar notes in the D170 Operator's Manual .... Tuff Torq's Own website has lot's of info about how to change the oil in this transmission and specifically states that changing oil will extend the life of the transmission.

I'm an 'over 60' owner, retired engineer and lifelong gearhead with a well-equipped shop long used to maintaining, modifying and fabricating motorcycles, cars, light trucks, small farm gasoline and diesel tractors and implements .... so I'm a competent mechanic for this sort of thing, safely pulling the tranny isn't an issue at all for me.

Two Questions:
1. Can anyone think of any reason that changing the oil as suggested by Tuff Torq would be contrary to long-term ownership interests?
2. Has anyone done this and had any problems in the process or as a result of doing it?

Thanks in Advance for your considered comments!

 

[dragoneggs]

Hey TX... welcome to TBN. I am not sure I understand your question.

 

[TX mower]

Bottom line - any reason NOT to change the oil as suggested by Tuff Torq per the linked pages/info?

Deere seems to want us to keep 'hands off'.

 

[Smoothas]

A lot of the talk about K46 is overblown, you only hear from the people that have “problems” hundreds of thousands of K46’s units are sold every year. Having said that hills (that cause internal pressure and cause heat) are problem for K46.

A few things you can do. Heat is enemy of transaxles; in hottest Texas months only mow early in morning or late in evenings. Only mow with WOT, which causes tranny fan to turn the fastest cooling your transaxle. After every mow use an air compressor or leave blower to blow out top of transaxle, grass accumulates there, dries and cakes on transmission case and cooling fins which limits transaxle ability to dissipate heat. Occasionally inspect fan on top of transaxle, make sure it is in good condition. And finally I wouldn’t do anything on changing internal tranny oil while unit is under warranty. You are covered first 2 years or 120 hours whatever comes first. At end of warranty replace internal tranny dino oil with synthetic oil. It’s a fairly easy procedure, tons of videos on you tube – first time you do it, will take 3 to 4 hours

 

[jenkinsph]

Bottom line - any reason NOT to change the oil as suggested by Tuff Torq per the linked pages/info?

Deere seems to want us to keep 'hands off'.

IF I were to buy a new mower with the k46 (which I would not do) the tranny would be pulled and changed to the 50 weight synthetic oil. BEFORE I ever used it. My reasoning is reducing the wear on the internal components which start from day one of use. If you wait for the warranty to expire a lot of damage will already be done. I would also recommend you ask Tuff Torque about the k57 modification you could perform while new, a worthwhile upgrade which would add a lot of life to the mower.

 

[Smoothas]

IF I were to buy a new mower with the k46 (which I would not do) the tranny would be pulled and changed to the 50 weight synthetic oil. BEFORE I ever used it. My reasoning is reducing the wear on the internal components which start from day one of use. If you wait for the warranty to expire a lot of damage will already be done. I would also recommend you ask Tuff Torque about the k57 modification you could perform while new, a worthwhile upgrade which would add a lot of life to the mower.

Do you have one shred of proof any damage would be done? No of course you don’t- all it would do is void his warranty. If tranny is kept clean of debris on flat piece of property Owner can expect years of trouble free use. In addition technology has improved over last decade for seals and such in K46

I know you have a bad taste in your mouth after a K46 burnt out on you 6 or 7 years into use. The K46 is by far the most sold hydrostatic transmission in use today- with millions of them in use as I type this post

 

[TX mower]

For those suggesting that changing the oil will 'void the warranty' .... that's probably contrary to the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act (which covers all consumer products, not just automobiles). Exceeding minimum maintenance requirements, in and of itself, can't be used by a warrantor (i.e. Deere) as a basis for refusing to honor a warranty.

As far as 'waiting till after warranty' ..... that strikes me as missing the point of preventive maintenance, especially in light of Tuff Gard's own literature about extending the life of the transmission.

I don't think I'm overblowing the potential for problems with the K46 and I don't anticipate the thing 'grenading' even though the reality of rather extreme Texas heat may be a factor - my use habit seems to fit well within the reasonable intended application (no hills, no dragging/ pulling/ pushing/ implement use).

I've long practiced preventive maintenance of equipment and as a result have enjoyed very long service life from my equipment in general - far, far beyond OEM warranty coverage, which I accept as intended to cover manufacturing defects which IMHO will likely make themselves known in the warranty period. The notion of changing the oil is to help mitigate the Texas heat factor since it's proven that all oils eventually suffer the effects of extreme heat, albeit some formulations more than others.

My question was intended to be about be about preventive maintenance, not mechanical upgrades, which is an entirely different topic (and obviously would void any warranty) - my apology for not making that clearer.

Thanks for the replies, I'll continue to monitor but maybe already have the trend of responses. I didn't mean to start an argument about the K46 itself and would hope that folks refrain from that here .

 

[Smoothas]

You may be right- but Deere also clearly states the transaxle is sealed. Regardless the whole point is moot- changing the oil to synthetic in 1st 120 hours really doesn’t accomplish anything. When new “Dino oil” protects every bit as good as Synthetic oil does. Where synthetic oil shines is over time repeated heating of the oil by normal tranny operating temperature causes the Dino oil to begin to break down. It is then when it starts to lose its lubricating properties, this can take several hundred hours of use to happen. Due to its properties synthetic oil doesn’t break down as quickly, thus offering a higher level of protection in a closed loop system over a longer period of time. Thus it does very little good to switch immediately- you are “covered” 1st 120 hours

 

[TX mower]

Thanks for your comments. We might disagree about the duration of high-temperatures required to reduce an oil's effectiveness, IMHO that and the temperature required to effect degradation varies depending on the formulation, but we'll just have to agree to disagree about that lacking an extensive scientific study.

More frequent than 'minimum' oil changes is simply a way to help ensure that those tolerances are not exceeded and that the equipment enjoys the benefit of best lubricating properties possible even when operated in extreme conditions.

It's interesting to note that the oil installed by Tuff Torq in the K46 variants other than John Deere applications is apparently their own full-synthetic lubricant. I can't find info explicitly stating whether Hy-Gard J20C (high viscosity) is 'dino', 'full-synthetic', or a blend; if you've found an authoritative source for that info I'd be interested to see it.

This is the best link I've found regarding Hy-Gard formulation from Deere

Whatever the formulation, IMHO lacking a uniform industry standard for specification, one should stick with Hy-Gard J20C for any oil changes during warranty if JD warranty preservation is an interest.

 

[General Lee]

I think you're asking a lot out of that K46 with 5 acres to mow. At least its flat.