Cummings - wont statt, or will it?

meledward23 · Jan 5, 2006

I have a 96' Dodge with a cummings. This truck is one of thsoe vehicles that has problems till it gets to the dealership and then the mechanic just stares at you like you are an idiot. (Since my brother is a GM mechanic I understand their viewpoint) Anyway I have this dodge with a problem (my brother refuses to 1) work on dodge 2) work on diesel). Okay to the problem.

Once the truck starts it runs like a top. Getting it started is the problem.

This problem started back in April. The fuel lifter (pump) was replaced and did not solve it. A few other odds and ends have been replaced but I dont remember what they were.

Problem Description: Truck cranks just fine. But the engine never fires. Checked the glow plugs, they will sizzle spit instantly. Plugging the trcuk in does no good. Doesnt matter whether it is hot or cold. It wont start. For about 6 weeks it might start but once you get out turn it off, it wouldnt start again sometimes. IE Hot Engine doesnt make a difference.

The really strange thing to me is you can turn the key 15 times and it may start the first time or the 3rd, or the 15th. Just depends on the trucks mood. Right now it starts every time I turn the key. Which once again makes it impossible to get a know nothing mechanic to figure out what is going on.

What ever it is it is intermittent.

Any ideas ?

JD3520 · Jan 5, 2006

sounds like and electric problem. i had a 1983 6.9 diesel in a ford that had a short in the wire going to the injector pump and it exibited the same symptoms. one time when it would not start i ran a jumper wire from the battery to the injector pump and cranked it right up. the wire had been crimped when the dealer was replacing the head gaskets. maube this will help.

chuck

jinman · Jan 5, 2006

I have a '96 Dodge Cummins and it has experienced a problem with the exact symptoms many times. I'm not saying this is your problem, but if it is, you'll be amazed at how easy it is to fix. Here is what you do...

1. Turn the ignition to ON (not to Start, just to ON)
2. Open the hood
3. On the left side of the engine just behind the injector pump and over the top of the fuel filter, there is the fuel shutoff solenoid (about 3" in diameter). Reach down below the solenoid and "help" it engage by pulling upwards. It should "click" and hold at the engaged position.
4. Get back into the truck and put the ignition switch to Start. The truck should fire off and run fine until you shut off the key.

5. If the solenoid will not "click" and stay engaged, it may be bad or there may be another problem. One time I actually put a bungee cord to hold the solenoid open, but it's a little disconcerting to cut off the key and the truck still runs until you raise the hood and remove the bungee. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

The fuel shutoff solenoid has two coils/current sources. With both coils engaged, the solenoid pulls-in (normally done when you turn the key to Start). When the key is returned to Run, the first coil is unpowered and the second coil holds the solenoid latched until the key is turned off. So what I found on my truck was a dirty connector on the firewall that was preventing enough current from getting to the solenoid to pick it up. Also, there is a rubber boot around the bottom of the solenoid where the arm goes to the fuel cutoff valve. That boot was deteriorated and a piece of it was "gumming up" the works. I just removed the boot and now I lube that area every time I change oil. Every once in awhile I'll have to mess with the solenoid to get the truck to start, but not very often. It's not a big enough problem for me to pay to have it fixed.

Hope this helps. Let me know if that turns out to be your problem. It sure sounds like it.

P.S. I also had a leaking fuel line once that let the fuel siphon back into the tank and I'd have to crank the engine for a long time to get it to start because the pump hand to lift fuel all the way from the tank. That doesn't sound like your problem.

Egon · Jan 5, 2006

Don't think you have glow plugs but are you refering to the inlet air preheater?

Jinmans covered the solenoid situation very nicely. I had the same problem.

The cost of a new solenoid may surprise you.

Some people just disregard the solenoid and use a manual cable hookup to operate the fuel valve. This could also be a great theft prevention device.

Egon

meledward23 · Jan 5, 2006

Egon, Yes.

And off to test the solenoid idea. Well that is after I rebuild my server that just crashed. So much for the new year starting off better than last year ended.

RedRocker · Jan 5, 2006

Cummins.

meledward23 · Jan 5, 2006

Hmmmmm, true, start instead or statt too.

meledward23 · Jan 5, 2006

BINGO, took a little while to figure out what exactly I was supposed to pull up. But it just clikced right into place and the truck turned over just like it did when it was a day old.

Thanks much, All who took the time to read, and the ever useful JINMAN!!!

RedRocker · Jan 5, 2006

You might check out the CTD board too, lotsa knowledge there too.

Michael_E_Tx · Jan 5, 2006

I have a '97. A relative had a '98. What we discovered is that the relay for the fuel shut off solenoid is known for going out. A lot of Cummins folks carry an extra for that reason. Check yours out. It's not expensive to replace. On my daughter's '98, with a bad relay, it would start by the method described (physically lifting). The relay is on the firewall.