Cub LT1045 Cranks but Won't Start

[MPVawter]

I was mowing with my Cub LT1045 and shut it down it add fuel. Unfortunately, it hasn't started since. The engine cranks fine but does not try to start. On the first few attempts, the engine backfired through the exhaust. Now it only cranks....

So far I have done the following:

* Verified spark by pulling plug from cylinder, grounding plug to engine, and cranking. Appears to have good spark?? I also replaced the plug.

* Tested the fuel shut-off valve on the carburetor. It appears to be working.

* Verified that the float bowl is full of fuel.

* Replaced the fuel filter.

* Replaced the oil and filter. Engine oil level is correct.

* Verified that the flywheel key is intact

What am I missing??

 

[OldMachinist]

Try a spraying some starting fluid in the carb and see if it starts. Did you take the flywheel off to verify the key? The only other thing I can think of is a compression test but you said it was running till you shut it down.

 

[MPVawter]

Thanks for the suggestion. When I sprayed starting fluid into the carburetor, the engine backfires as loud as a shotgun. Also, I did pull the flywheel to verify that the key was intact. I guess that I need to check the compression.

 

[dqdave1]

Remove flywheel and replace the key. When it backfired it sheared or "partially sheared the key. It is now out of time and will not run. Key will look good; must remove flywheel.

 

[gammata]

Hve you got all your safeties interlocked seat brakes clutch etc.?

 

[buzz999999]

I have exactly same problem...how did you rectify???!!!

 

[rcbe]

I have exactly same problem...how did you rectify???!!!

Buzz - you will need to do same as DQDAVE said to OP earlier - remove flywheel, clean bore, shaft and keyway thoroughly - install new OEM key (no aftermarket) - re-asm flywheel and retorque (usually 100 ft/lbs -chk kohler website). Be careful not to break fins on flywheel . Take to cub cadet shop if you are not comfortable with such a repair. Good luck

 

[buzz999999]

Thank you for your help....I did the same....keyway was sheared. had to go to lowes and fab a keyway (used stock 3/8 aluminum- figured it was just there for aligning)...torqued to 67 n-m and it started....having a little oscillating reving at med. to low rpm. might change new fuel pump back to old....any suggestions.

 

[rcbe]

go to kohler engine website - d/l both parts list and service manual for that engine in order to get correct p/n for replacement crankshaft key (mtl and hardness important) and also to get correct retorque value when re-asm flywheel ( make sure flywheel bore, key, keyway slot and crank absolutely clean before asm).... use rattlecan carb cleaner to chk for intake leaks while engine is idling - a shot or two around pheriphery of assy and engine speed changes tells you there is a leak...repair as req'd - then a tad of seafoam directly down carb throat and also some into fuel tank - should see improvement.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Thank you for your help....I did the same....keyway was sheared. had to go to lowes and fab a keyway (used stock 3/8 aluminum- figured it was just there for aligning)...torqued to 67 n-m and it started....having a little oscillating reving at med. to low rpm. might change new fuel pump back to old....any suggestions.

I wouldn't recommend using aluminum for a key. It will probably shear in no time. It shouldn't be too hard to find a stell key the right size. They're pretty common.

Bob B.