Cub Cadet RZT 50 will not ever try to crank, just clicks

[Morven39]

It is a 2010 with a 22hp Kawasaki engine. When I went out to mow the grass, turned the key and it just clicks. I have installed a new battery and battery cables, starter solenoid and the PTO switch which was getting hard to turn On or Off, and the only difference that I have noticed is that now I seem to hear a very low whining sound along with the click when I turn the ignition key to ON try to start it. I am definitely not a mechanic but I tried to be careful and install the new parts the same way as they had been before. I haven't replaced the ingnition switch yet, but just joined the forum today and noticed that someone had stated that might be the problem.

I had checked the forum prior to starting changing out the parts but haven't done voltage checks as suggested since I am almost 80 years old and unable the crawl around under the mower to get to the starter.

Any help would be appreciated.

Morven39

 

[TCJatko]

Have you checked the ground connection where it meets the frame of the vehicle? Maybe some corrosion there? Sounds like a bad connection to me.

 

[Morven39]

Thanks, I will go outside and check the frame where the new solenoid is attached and see if it is rusty, dirty or whatever.

 

[Morven39]

I will try to check further tomorrow morning when it isn't so hot here. Temp is over 100 with and heat index of around 110 so it is just about unbearable even in the shade. Also might have to get my grandson to come over and help me check all things mentioned since he is still a young man.

 

[Spanner]

Hi Morv. Welcome to the forum.
The 'whining' sound is indicative of the solenoid trying to pull 'in' but failing due to low voltage.
You say you have a new battery and a new solenoid.

Try Jumper Leads from a car battery in this fashion:

Positive (+) lead from additional battery to Positive (+) on mower battery.

Negative (-) lead from additional battery to "Somewhere bare metal" on the mower engine - Not the battery. Mounting bolt perhaps?

If you get engine cranking when you turn the key you have shown a ground (Earth) fault exists.

Let us know but take your time in the heat.

 

[eth555]

My park brake switch will stick and if you wiggle the park brake lever around a bit it and it will start. It will not crank if the park brake lever is not engaged. It will also not start if the steering levers are not all the way out, and if there is no one in the seat. Any one of these things will cause it not to crank, might have to start checking safety switches.

 

[BukitCase]

Actually, if ANY of the safety switches on the RZT50 aren't closed it won't even CLICK - I'd spend my time looking at previous suggestions.

Also, IME you can measure VOLTAGE thru "glazed" battery terminals but can't draw enough CURRENT to drive a starter - if the glazing is BAD enough, even a battery post cleaner might not get it - but 100 grit sandpaper will

same thing (low current) if a molded end on a battery cable is totally corroded inside but looks FINE to the eye (learning THAT one only cost me about $100 in un-necessary parts I couldn't afford.) Today's digital meters are so high impedance they will read just fine thru such a crappy connection, but when you actually try to START the vehicle the voltage at the starter will drop to maybe 5% of battery voltage.

Connecting the meter right at the starter terminals will tell you if you have this sort of problem; voltage at the starter will read the same as at the battery, UNTIL you try to start it. THEN it'll drop to a volt or less if there's bad connections between battery and starter.

If the battery itself isn't able to supply current, connecting the meter directly across the battery terminals will tell you - symptoms would be OK voltage at rest, but HUGE voltage drop when trying to crank.

Sorry for the "book", I've been burned by ALL of these conditions (and more) over the past 50+ years, hopefully something I mentioned will save OTHERS from that pain... Steve

 

[Morven39]

Thanks for the help from all who gave me pointers on what to check to fix my problem. Using those pointers and having the help of my son and grandson, we finally located the problem. It was the starter. The nut that holds the spring, gear, etc inside the starter had become so loose that it fell out of the case when the starter was disassembled. We cleaned all the parts, replaced everything in the starter case after making sure that the nut was tightened securely, hooked it back up and the mower started immediately. I don't even feel bad about the parts that I replaced that might have been ok since the mover is 7 years old. Since I am almost 80 years old, maybe it will now outlast me.

 

[Richard001]

Morven39,

Great trouble shooting.

Just a note for the future, after re-assembling something, there should not be any parts left over !

Welcome to TBN

Richard

 

[Morven39]

Morven39,

Great trouble shooting.

Just a note for the future, after re-assembling something, there should not be any parts left over !

Welcome to TBN

Richard

No parts over. Cut grass yesterday and everything worked fine. Maybe it will continue to last for a few more years.