Cub Cadet GT1054 and GT 2000/2100 Series Question

[leeave96]

My brother is considering a new Cub Cadet with a 54 inch deck and is considering both the GT1054 and the GT2000 series (GT/GTX 2100 may be considered too - but he doesn't care for the electric power steering or lift).

He know the pros and cons of these series types based on the work to be done and knows that both of these tractor series have been out over this past Summer and maybe longer in use.

My question is - if you own either, can you comment on how well you like it, don't like it, what you'd have done similar or different with your purchase? Are you primarily mowing or other chores? If you have the 54 inch deck, do you like it or not. Not sure he is interested in the fab'd deck - just due to the shear weight of it and trying to manhandle it on and off the tractor.

Any feedback would be much appreciated.

Thanks!
Bill

 

[deerseeker001]

welcome from Wisconsin

 

[Leo Rabon]

I bought a Cub GT2000 in June 2011 with the 42 inch deck and bagger. Now have 120 hours (3 seasons) on the machine. Cost me around $4,000.00 at that time. I understand that the prices have increased a bit since then. I do use my GT2000 for pulling a trailer around the yard with tree debris and moving dirt. I did a lot of investigating before I bought the GT2000 versus the Big Box Store 1000 series because I knew I would be doing some things such as pulling some heavy loads around the yard. The 1000 series just will not take that kind of load on the tranny. I am glad I went with the GT2000, Kohler Command engine (top of the line) versus the Kohler Courage Line on the 1000 series. I don't know that the shaft drive on the GT2000 versus belt drive tranny on the GT1000 series makes any big difference, but the frame is much heavier than the 1000 series. Cost was a big factor for me, I wanted a stout machine at the best price available. I have been well pleased with the GT2000. If you do purchase the GT2000 series with the Kohler Command engine, I suggest you use the Kohler Brand Oil 10W30 (needed for the hydraulic lifters) (don't have to adjust them). It is packaged by Warren Oil out of Dunn, NC (I think) and does have an extra dash of anti foaming agent in it. Cheapest place to buy is (RepairClinic.com) as well as the Cub filters and Cub transmission fluid. You can sign up for their emails and they email approximately monthly a 10% discount on your purchase. It is delivered to my door cheaper than I can pick it up from a store. I do use Cub Branded tranny (hydraulic) filter, some have reported problems with other filters. I also use Cub branded transmission oil (expensive) some use Shell Rotella 15w40 (much cheaper)as their transmission fluid and some get by with it and some have problems. My Cub is run during the summer with 95 to 100 degree ambient temps. and that is tough on the oil (any oil) Kohler recommends 100 hours on the oil change. I would not go there. The oil (additive pack) is beat after 37 hours in that heat and starts to burn a little oil. I change it then and don't worry about spending 20 bucks on an oil and filter change for a $4,000 machine (that should last me 15 years or so). Once the oil is changed, no more oil burning for another 37 hours. Keep the air filters changed and pre cleaner clean. Some people swear by synthetic oil and how long they can run before changes. For me, I prefer to use regular Dino oil and change it to keep the dirt out of the engine. The transmission in the GT2000 is (Fully Serviceable) fluid and filter, a little over 5 quarts on the change, (the life of a hydrostatic transmission) a 20 minute job. The 1000 series is not serviceable and maybe has 2 quarts or so of fluid. If you are looking at the "Green Paint" and want to pull any weight behind the machine, stay away from the lower number 300 series as they have the troublesome K-46 transmission in them. If you pull any weight behind it, you will fry the tranny. If I were going "Green" it would be the X500 or better. Green paint is very expensive. IMO, the Cub Cadet GT2000 is the best bang for the buck, by todays standards, which unfortunately "ain't what it used to be". I have been pleased so far with my GT2000. Best of luck with your decision.
Leo Rabon

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Leo, if you feel better using only Cub brand oil and filters then stick to your guns. In my previous 1978 IH Cub 1450, which I ran for 1200 hours and 26 years I used the Cub Cadet Hytran oil in the hydro but used automotive Fram or AC filters for both engine and trans. I also used good grade 10W30 Quaker State or comparable brand motor oil. I had to pull the engine and replace the oil pan after the engine mounts failed and the engine dropped on to the frame and wore the oil pan. The engine was spotless internally at 1000 hours. My current 2004 3235 ($7000) with 500 hours has been using the same motor oils and engine filters as I used before. I used the $48/gal Cub Drive System Plus synthetic hydro fluid until it started leaking and using more. I've used Mobil 1 20W50 synthetic in the hydro for several years. I bought 2 5-gal jugs at Walmart for $26.00 each, which works out to a little over $20/gal. I DO use the Cub Cadet transmission filters since I bought 5 of them for $25 at Lowes when they stopped selling Cubs. All motor oils have to pass stringent tests and I'm sure Cub Cadet's motor oil is rebranded from another company like Penzoil or Quaker State. One of the forum's frequent posters verified with the manufacturer of Cub's hydrostatic transmissions that the recommended fluid is 50W motor oil. Just my 2 cents YMMV.

Bob B.

 

[rcbe]

OP - susbstantial cost difference between the two machines - remember, the deck is sold separately on the 2000 series...not on the GT1054..

 

[Leo Rabon]

Hello Bob:
Thanks for the information. You are correct, the (newer) Cub Cadet Transmission fluid is actually a product from Shell Oil Company, branded Shell Rimula, a European marketed oil product generally for the heavy equipment and trucking industry (synthetic blend) related closely to their Shell 15W40. I have searched high and low on the internet to find a source for the Rimula product and many others have also; to no avail. Cub Cadet is better at keeping secrets than our own CIA and must have one really tough contract with Hydro-Gear when it comes to guarding the oil that Hydro-Gear uses for their product. Hydro-Gear is pretty tight lipped about the Cub oil. As to engine oil, the Kohler oil is still labeled SJ which carries over 1000 ppm of ZDDP, which is important to engine wear, based on my extensive reading, but who knows??????? The automotive engine oils on the shelf today are blended with much less ZDDP, which is supposed????? to keep from damaging the catalytic converters. Again, who knows????? I have read so much on that matter until I have given up on what information I think is correct. For my situation, I use my Cub 40 hours per year and like to keep the oil changed, so an annual oil change is due for me anyway. Last time I bought the Cub Transmission Fluid, it was almost $13.00 per quart at (RepairClinic.com). (5 quarts for the change) That hurt a bit. I have never heard of an engine failure due to the brand of "engine oil used" (providing the oil was a branded oil (Not "Joe's Super Dino Squeezings")and the proper weight). At the end of the day, I enjoy this forum very much and all of the members along with their experiences. Thanks again for your thoughts.

Leo Rabon

 

[leeave96]

Thanks everyone for your comments - very helpful!!!!!!

Bill

 

[MESSMAKER]

I have a 2500 series which is very similar to 2000 series. I have never cared for it. Little things break,cut quality is just ok. It really struggles in damp and or tall grass. I have the 44" deck not the 52.