Cub Cadet 1872

   / Cub Cadet 1872 #1  

builder2

Bronze Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2008
Messages
63
Location
Livingston county, Michigan
Tractor
JD 5200 2 wd
I have a problem with this tractor.
It was flooding when turned off which ended up being a cracked seat in the carb. Purchased a replacement carb from OPE engines (Phil Coon Sales, whom I would highly recommend for small engine parts).
This solved the problem of flooding and it runs like new without the electric clutch for the deck engaged.
When the clutch is engaged, it starts to sputter and cut out after about a minute of mowing. If I turn the clutch of it immediately starts to run smooth again.
Has anyone had this problem? And what was the cause?

Thanks in advance,

Paul
 
   / Cub Cadet 1872 #2  
It sounds like it is adjusted too lean. Does the new carb have adjustable jet on it? If so, try turning the mixture adjustment about 1/4 turn at a time and try it.

Another possibility is the clutch drawing too much current from your battery. I would loosen the mower belt and engage the clutch. If it has no effect on the engine it is probably ok and the added load of the deck is making he engine run lean.
 
   / Cub Cadet 1872
  • Thread Starter
#3  
It sounds like it is adjusted too lean. Does the new carb have adjustable jet on it? If so, try turning the mixture adjustment about 1/4 turn at a time and try it.

Another possibility is the clutch drawing too much current from your battery. I would loosen the mower belt and engage the clutch. If it has no effect on the engine it is probably ok and the added load of the deck is making he engine run lean.

I do have an adjustable main and have tried enriching the mix as that was my first inclination.

The first time I mowed after the new carb, it ran well with power to spare. I have checked all the obvious things like fuel filter. carb bowl and fuel pump.

Is there any way to test the current draw on the clutch? And how does this affect the coils? Maybe I should bypass directly to the battery and see if it will mow without cutting out.


Thanks for the reply,

Paul
 
   / Cub Cadet 1872 #4  
Recheck that your fuel pump is actualy pumping fuel, it might be, but barely and once the demand for power arrives, it cannot keep up with the demand. It is also possible, even with the new carb, to have gotten a spec of dirt from reconnecting fuel lines ect and partialy blocked a jet. Been there and solved that a few times when rebuilding carbs at the shop I worked for. What happens when you engage the clutch with no belt on it? If that causes the same thing, I would be looking at the clutch to be shorting out, or the PTO switch, which has an internal safety that kills the ignition, could also be starting to fail. Cubs are known to eat PTO switches. There is also whats called an Air Gap that must be set on the PTO clutch for it to operate properly. If you need to look at manuals, go over to the ihregistry.com website, they have many of the cub manuals scanned onto the site and you can download them for free and print. Mike
 
   / Cub Cadet 1872
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Recheck that your fuel pump is actualy pumping fuel, it might be, but barely and once the demand for power arrives, it cannot keep up with the demand. It is also possible, even with the new carb, to have gotten a spec of dirt from reconnecting fuel lines ect and partialy blocked a jet. Been there and solved that a few times when rebuilding carbs at the shop I worked for. What happens when you engage the clutch with no belt on it? If that causes the same thing, I would be looking at the clutch to be shorting out, or the PTO switch, which has an internal safety that kills the ignition, could also be starting to fail. Cubs are known to eat PTO switches. There is also whats called an Air Gap that must be set on the PTO clutch for it to operate properly. If you need to look at manuals, go over to the ihregistry.com website, they have many of the cub manuals scanned onto the site and you can download them for free and print. Mike

Will have to check the pump. I cleaned the tank and lines prior to installing the new carb. Also installed an inline filter (which was also checked to see if it was clogged) I thought about dirt or debri in the carb so I pulled it to check and nothing in the bowl, jet or needle and seat.
I have not tried the clutch without the belt but will. Air gap has been set to spec.

Is there a way to check the switch or clutch with a muli-tester?

I appreciate the replies,

Paul
 
   / Cub Cadet 1872 #6  
Have you tried it without the inline filter? Sometimes they add just enough resistance to cause problems, and double check that if the filter is directional, the flow is in the correct direction.
 
   / Cub Cadet 1872
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Recheck that your fuel pump is actualy pumping fuel, it might be, but barely and once the demand for power arrives, it cannot keep up with the demand. It is also possible, even with the new carb, to have gotten a spec of dirt from reconnecting fuel lines ect and partialy blocked a jet. Been there and solved that a few times when rebuilding carbs at the shop I worked for. What happens when you engage the clutch with no belt on it? If that causes the same thing, I would be looking at the clutch to be shorting out, or the PTO switch, which has an internal safety that kills the ignition, could also be starting to fail. Cubs are known to eat PTO switches. There is also whats called an Air Gap that must be set on the PTO clutch for it to operate properly. If you need to look at manuals, go over to the ihregistry.com website, they have many of the cub manuals scanned onto the site and you can download them for free and print. Mike

Update on my 1872 Cub. Bota mike was right. I attached my fuel line from the carb directly to the vent on my 5 gallon gas can, tipped it over and it started right up.

My local JD dealer had the correct mechanical fuel pump in stock (Kohler Magnum 18) and 1 hour later it was running great. I did notice the pump was loose when I removed it and contact between the cam lobe and pump lever could have been part of the problem. Also discovered that 2 screws holding the top pump cover to the lower half were stripped out.

Its very handy to have this up and running again

Paul
 
   / Cub Cadet 1872 #8  
I don't know if you cub has the seat swithch for the mower deck but if it does check that before you go any further. If the switch is bad it thinks your off the seat and it will run but since the switch is bad it just cuts out like it's fuel. By pass the swithch and see if that makes it run better.
Thanks,
Big Al
 

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