ct235 clutch stuck

[mudbogger]

Looking for suggestions on how to free-up my clutch. Pedal works freely, but clutch won't disengage when pedal depressed. Yes, had water in clutch housing that I drained. Tractor sat for a while. I don't have a service manual to provide any suggestions. Any help greatly appreciated.

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2009 CT235
7TL
66" Mid Mower

 

[SSdoxie]

Try working in in hard load such as pushing against a tree then when engine starts to load or wheels start to slip push in & hold clutch pedal disengaged. If (hopefully) when the clutch disengages release pedal slightly trying to slip the clutch some to burnish the plate. If this does not work or sticks again you will have to split tractor to remove and clean /or replace clutch. Usually if stuck with a little rust, working it under heavy load with pedal depressed will pop it loose.

 

[mudbogger]

Thanks Dennis

I will try that. Hopefully that will work. Hate to separate and replace clutch. Only 263 hrs on machine. I was thinking about squirting some penetrating oil up thru the drain hole in the clutch housing to get things moving.

 

[plumbstraight]

one problem with pushing against a tree is that you might kill it in gear and not be able to get it free

just use the highest gear you can as the torque to the clutch is the same from the engine no matter what gear you are in. It will just pull harder on the drivetrain and brakes in a lower gear.
hold the clutch in and put the brakes on hard off and on, it might break free, this has worked for me in the past.

 

[lilranch2001]

I guess it really is a good thing to hook the clutch lever when you are not going to use it for a while

 

[wallace]

Actually the lowest gear works much better.

Make sure you have a decent spot to do this in.
Put the tractor in 4wd and low range.
Start the tractor and release the clutch, while in the forward motion with max rpm's you will need to stab the brakes.
I know this may be difficult with having the brake pedal on the same side. Just use your left foot to stab the brake.
You may have to do this several times.

 

[mudbogger]

Thanks Rick for the suggestion. I will give this a try sometime today and get back to you with the results. Thanks again!

 

[mudbogger]

Thanks for all the responses to my problem. Unfortunately after trying them the clutch is still stuck. I'm going to pull the starter to see if there is any access to the clutch whatsoever. Maybe a lost cause.

 

[SSdoxie]

one problem with pushing against a tree is that you might kill it in gear and not be able to get it free

just use the highest gear you can as the torque to the clutch is the same from the engine no matter what gear you are in. It will just pull harder on the drivetrain and brakes in a lower gear.
hold the clutch in and put the brakes on hard off and on, it might break free, this has worked for me in the past.

This is hydrostatic drive, uses a common clutch for pump drive and to shift PTO & 4wd. Needs to be in lo-range or hydro will go over relief too easy poosibly before clutch can slip if stuck hard.

 

[SSdoxie]

Thanks for all the responses to my problem. Unfortunately after trying them the clutch is still stuck. I'm going to pull the starter to see if there is any access to the clutch whatsoever. Maybe a lost cause.

Yep, that is what the little hook is for, so clutch plate or throw out bearing don't stick to pressure plate when setting for long periods of time.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

So far my tractor hasn't set idle for more than a 5 day work week.

Rate things are going I'll have to do the 50 hour servicing before winter is over.

 

[SSdoxie]

I don't think OP normally lets it set that long, but tractor got caught in a flood and he had to leave it set until insurance company settled. Took 3 months.

 

[mudbogger]

I don't think OP normally lets it set that long, but tractor got caught in a flood and he had to leave it set until insurance company settled. Took 3 months.

You got it! Couldn't touch the thing until the insurance co settled. It was very painful. 3 months is a long time to sit. Now its back in the heated garage to be worked on. According to the service manual the front axle is a sealed unit. Looking thru the peep window, the fluid looks clear but its time to change anyway. Yes, both dips were under water but no obvious contamination in fluids but will change anyway. The water never got to the vent hole in the hydraulic fill. The local dealer said they had units totally under water and were able to bring them back to life. Whether or not you would want to is a different story.

 

[SSdoxie]

You got it! Couldn't touch the thing until the insurance co settled. It was very painful. 3 months is a long time to sit. Now its back in the heated garage to be worked on. According to the service manual the front axle is a sealed unit. Looking thru the peep window, the fluid looks clear but its time to change anyway. Yes, both dips were under water but no obvious contamination in fluids but will change anyway. The water never got to the vent hole in the hydraulic fill. The local dealer said they had units totally under water and were able to bring them back to life. Whether or not you would want to is a different story.

I know you are changinf oil anyway but just FYI, there IS a vent on front axle. I found mine by accident looking around under the radiator and found hose I thought was disconnected. Traced it back to the axle. Attached is photo from shop service manual that shows it after axle removed.