Craftsman LT 1000 ignition wiring.

[ford96]

Hi, my cousin has this craftsman lt 1000 tractor with I think a 22horse briggs or maybe a Kohler (not 100%) motor and hydrostatic transmission. The problem is, is the ignition is screwed up it broke apart and can't find a serial number or anything on the tractor that can give sears the right info for a replacement ignition switch and we're country folk we don't care about looks so I was going to wire him a home made ignition setup, I ran a power wire for the starter on a toggle switch but need to figure out the ignition wire that will allow the motor to run and stay running. If anyone has any idea how to make it work from here let me know. Thanks If you need to know the exact motor I will find out.

 

[QueBota]

Here is an electrical schematic from a similar tractor, should be close enough to help.

We would usually wire it with a toggle switch to power the ignition (run) and a "push button" switch to crank the starter. Click toggle to run (on) position, push button till engine starts, release button. Move toggle to off to shut down engine.

Dave

 

[ford96]

Alright, thanks for the diagram, I'll have to check the tractor over again. Thanks for the push button idea, I don't know why I didn't give that a thought.

 

[QueBota]

I think you would want to try to find a "switch" rated for a least 30 amps for the starter (the push button style switch). A 10-15 amp toggle should be fine for the ignition.

Have done this setup many times in the past when the ignition switch in old cars/trucks went bad and wouldn't turn the starter, the previous owner had done some custom wiring that I couldn't figure out or some of the safety interlock parts were broken or not available.

Just turn the ignition key to the run position, crank the starter with the push button switch and turn key to off to shut the engine down. I would usually mount some type of safety cover over the push button to avoid turning the starter when the engine was running.

A generic autoparts store/NAPA LT/GT ignition switch may be a better and cheaper solution. I think the only difference in the switches is the number of terminals or what leads go to which terminals, the switch should have a schematic included. I am sure someone with more knowledge will jump in an explain it more clearly.

Dave

 

[ford96]

I get what you're saying, and appreciate your input. It helps.

 

[jhwentworth]

I think you would want to try to find a "switch" rated for a least 30 amps for the starter (the push button style switch). A 10-15 amp toggle should be fine for the ignition.

A generic autoparts store/NAPA LT/GT ignition switch may be a better and cheaper solution. I think the only difference in the switches is the number of terminals or what leads go to which terminals, the switch should have a schematic included. I am sure someone with more knowledge will jump in an explain it more clearly.

Dave

The starting connection from the push-button switch has to carry only enough current to drive the solenoid. The starter draws its current directly from the battery. The solenoid should draw only about 10 amps.

The toggle switch has to provide a ground to kill the ignition; a very small amount of current. Also remember that this engine probably has an electric fuel shutoff solenoid on the carb which is normally driven by the ignition key. No volts to fuel solenoid= no fuel to motor.
Maybe another switch for the solenoid, or use a double pole single throw (DPST) switch. A DPST is two single pole switches controlled by a single lever. Use one side for the ground for the ignition and the other for the voltage to the fuel solenoid. Maybe 5 amps would be right.

I would discourage using a generic ignition switch. It might work, and it might smoke the wiring or worse. I've seen this many times. Look at a wiring diagram for the tractor; most times there's a schematic for the ignition switch that shows what connections are made inside the switch at various positions. The new switch has to provide the same connections.