Cracked hydro fitting

[toivo1037]

Did a quick search, and did not come across the same situation.

Have a long hydro rod on a flail mower boom. Main lift cylinder must have hit a tree or something, as I noticed a decent leak just after dark. The cylinder has a long hard line running up its length, and then turns 90d and into the main body. It appears to be cracked in, or near the weld from the line to the main body. I was dark, but I think that was the problem.

It is about 6" away from the end of the cylinder, so I may be able to keep the heat from damaging the seals.

I have never worked on a cylinder before.
Can I weld this crack up?
Or is brazing a better idea?
Do I need to drain the line down?

Or maybe I should just take it to someone who knows what they are doing. We are pretty rural, and don't have any specialty hydro shop around, but I should be able to find a decent welder.

Darn flail only have about 40 hours on it

Thank you, -Neil

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would braze it. I am no expert but its always better to take it off and drain it out. Hydro fluid is very flammable. Also make sure the piston is as far away from the area you are working to prevent heat damage to the seals.

Chris

 

[J_J]

I really don't think it is worth it to weld or braze on the cylinder. Any heat is going to warp it somewhat. Think about a piece of steel when you weld, the metal expands.

 

[kennyd]

I think we need a picture to give you any valuable advice, but it sounds fixable. The fitting can be cut off and a new one welded on very easily.

 

[deepNdirt]

I think we need a picture to give you any valuable advice, but it sounds fixable. The fitting can be cut off and a new one welded on very easily.

if this is just a section of the hard line? could he not cut out the crack and couple in a new section with Compression fittings?

 

[J_J]

He said the cylinder had a crack in it??????

 

[RickB]

He said the cylinder had a crack in it??????

It wasn't clear to me if the barrel or supply tube was cracked. If it is the barrel, it's junk. If only the tube, it can be repaired.

 

[toivo1037]

Sorry if I wasn't clear. I looked at it this morning, it looks like a crack in the weld that holds the hard line to the main body of the cylinder. Can't use compression fittings in this instance. I also can not see where the line was hit, or tweaked to cause the leak. The unit only has about 40 hours on it, so I am going to contact the dealer to see if he has another cylinder, but we have a big work weekend scheduled in 5 days, so I really have to get it fixed ASAP.

 

[Kernopelli]

It wasn't clear to me if the barrel or supply tube was cracked. If it is the barrel, it's junk. If only the tube, it can be repaired.

I have had excellent results with welding cylinders....both rod ends and barrels. I had to weld both of the steel barrels on the dump cylinders on my FEL and have also had to weld aluminum bodied lift cylinders that were scavenged from a semi trailer car hauler and have used them all almost daily for over 4 years with great results. I am curious why you think the cylinder would be shot if it was cracked at the inlet port? Sincerely not trying to be difficult or argumentative, just curious why you would advise against it?

 

[J_J]

Before the crack appeared, the cylinder had equal strength. Now that a weld has been placed at the crack, the weakest part of the cylinder is now at the edge of the weld and the base metal.