Counter Weight for Snow Plow

[Oldtoad]

Have been using a rototiller as a counterweight for the 6' snowplow on the 25hp Ford.
Thinking it is about time that I picked up a concrete block for the new 94" blade for the 43hp Kubota.
How big do you recommend? Maybe a logging winch? The 8' rake on the back is too wide, too light to be backing up and pushing snow about.

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

Have been using a rototiller as a counterweight for the 6' snowplow on the 25hp Ford.
Thinking it is about time that I picked up a concrete block for the new 94" blade for the 43hp Kubota.
How big do you recommend? Maybe a logging winch? The 8' rake on the back is too wide, too light to be backing up and pushing snow about.

A 6' box blade if you have it. It's heavy enough and you can use it to push snow when needed.

 

[Woodstock Walt]

Have been using a rototiller as a counterweight for the 6' snowplow on the 25hp Ford.
Thinking it is about time that I picked up a concrete block for the new 94" blade for the 43hp Kubota.
How big do you recommend? Maybe a logging winch? The 8' rake on the back is too wide, too light to be backing up and pushing snow about.

Hey, another Mainer on here.

This past fall I purchased a 1300 lb. 3-point ballast block from a guy up in Hermon who makes them. He usually has a listing for them on Craigslist, but I can't find it at the moment. If you're interested PM me and I'll give you his contact info.

As I recall he makes four sizes, 250 lb., 400 lb., 900 lb., and 1300 lb. ranging from $250-400 (pretty great deal if you ask me). They all have the 2" hitch receiver as well. I bought mine more as counterweight for loader work, but I've had it on for plowing this this winter with my Mahindra 4540 and 8' Fisher. I had pretty decent traction beforehand with the studded Aquiline chains and loaded R1's, but the ballast block significantly improved the effectiveness of my spilt braking ability to counteract the plow while pushing at and angle.

After hearing my good reviews Dad bought a matching 1300 lb. block for his JD 4510 with unloaded R4's, no chains. The ballast block made a night and day difference for him, as his tractor has always struggled for traction the way it is set up. I went over and used it to clear his driveway a couple weeks back and can confirm that it operates like a totally different machine having that extra weight. Much more traction, and fantastic split braking ability, which had never worked well before simply from lack of traction.

I highly recommend them.

 

[Thomas]

Are rear tires loaded and tire chains?
I'd use winch...might come in handy when plowing.

 

[Fallon]

If you have space & maneuverability constraints, a dedicated ballast box can make sense. But if you don't have those constraints, just use a heavy impliment. I built a ballast box 5 years ago & have used it maybe twice. The rest if the time I just leave the last impliment on. Box blades are usually the heaviest, most compact & hardest to damage. My tiller is small & light so I'd swap it out if I was going to do a lot of heavy loader work. I wouldn't bother for a quick heavier lift though.

For lifting with the loader a good rule of thumb is try to get 3pt ballast equal to the weight of what you will lift. You don't need counterweight to save your front axle or stability with a plow like you do with a heavy lift. The ballast will be very good for traction though. I run a snowblower or at least a back blade when I have my plow on my SSQA.

A rake is likely a bit light as you noted. Not sure what a logging winch weighs, but would be reasonably compact & a good choice if it weighed enough.

 

[LD1]

Get another blade for the back.

A ~800-900# hydraulic angle heavy duty rear blade would suffice.

Dont waste time backing up without moving snow

 

[Gordon Gould]

I use a 600 lb winch - 15" of snow

gg

 

[CobyRupert]

Winches make a good counterweight, and double as a handy “Plan D” when 4 wheel drive and tire chains aren’t enough to dig yourself out of a hole..
..but at ~$10 a pound, that’s expensive counterweight.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I had pretty decent traction beforehand with the studded Aquiline chains and loaded R1's, but the ballast block significantly improved the effectiveness of my spilt braking ability to counteract the plow while pushing at and angle.



Much more traction, and fantastic split braking ability, which had never worked well before simply from lack of traction.

Are your tires loaded Walt ? I am just wondering if that is why your steering brakes were not as effective before. Of course having that plow out front makes it a lot tougher to turn.

EDIT - I just reread your post and see that they are loaded.
Sorry.

gg

 

[Woodstock Walt]

Are your tires loaded Walt ? I am just wondering if that is why your steering brakes were not as effective before. Of course having that plow out front makes it a lot tougher to turn.

EDIT - I just reread your post and see that they are loaded.
Sorry.

gg

No no, it's all good. Kind of a complicated post.

In summary, my tires were already loaded, so I always had pretty good traction. But, I think the added weight of the block helped to shift some weight back onto tje rear tires to improve my split braking ability.

My father's JD 4510 has unloaded tires, so adding the block made a significant improvement for him all around.