Correct gasket adhesive?

[rbargeron]

Does anyone know what adhesive is recommended for the gaskets on Kubota gear housings, transmission cases etc. ? Getting the old gaskets off is a real job - they are very tough and seem to be stuck to the parts with strong adhesive. Seems like the gasket adhesive may be considered part of the strength of the assembly - so new gaskets should be installed with some specific goo ?

 

[tmc2318]

I added a front PTO to my tractor and found that loctite 515 was the best choice for that job (ie: machined surfaces on transmissions or gear housings)

 

[CougarGT]

Don't know what Kubota recommends, but I use to use the Loctite 515 on Saturn transmissions. Some spots you did not even use a gasket, just the 515. Never a leak. The best way to scrape the old gaskets is with a razor blade.

 

[Danno1]

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I like stuff called Indian Head. It's a dark brown liquid in a brown bottle. I think it's a shellac based product. Smells good too!

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[rbargeron]

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I like stuff called Indian Head. It's a dark brown liquid in a brown bottle. I think it's a shellac based product. Smells good too!

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Now that you mention it, I may have a bottle of that Indian Head stuff - I inherited it from my father who probably got it from his. Bet the cap is stuck pretty good.

 

[B2400]

I've had great luck with a product from Permatex called Ultra Grey. I had to disassemble the Bi-Speed gear box on my 2400 and used it for the rebuild. It appears to be very similar to Yamabond 4 which Yamaha used to use on all engines from the factory.

 

[woodburner]

Good question.
I'm not sure what Kubota recommends, but if the area is not too large, I like to use a RTV silicone like the Permatex Ultra Grey that B2400 suggested. The plain old Red or Blue RTV silicone will also do well in most instances. The reason I like to use a silicone is that if I happen to scratch or gouge the surface of the part while scraping off the old gasket material, I can count on the RTV silicone to fill in the void left by the scratch. The reason I say that I use silicone if the area is not too large is that RTV silicone starts to set up pretty quickly and you need to get all the components together and tight before the silicone starts to cure. This can be difficult to get done in time on large gaskets with lots of bolts and pieces that fit between assembled cases. In the case of large gaskets I like to use a non hardening slow set gasket adhesive that Permatex also makes, I think it's called Permatex #2

Removing old hard gasket material takes time and patience, particularly if it's on an aluminium case! I use a stiff blade scraper and some gasket remover spray. It takes time, but the gasket remover chemical spray will help removing old hard gaskets. Razor blades can gouge or scratch a machined aluminum surface on a case in a heartbeat, not to mention your fingers! So be careful if you use them. If I'm removing a gasket from an iron case of flange, I take the high speed mini grinder with a wire wheel mounted and that flat takes of any gasket and adhesive! On iron in tight places I'll mount a wire wheel on a high speed drill. Just don't use the wire wheel on aluminium. Good luck and have fun

 

[Chuck K.]

As an old ex-auto mechanic any adhesive that holds the gasket will suffice. Typically the gasket does the sealing not the adhesive. Like others stated surface prep. is most important.

I always cleaned the gasket sealing surfaces as best I could using razor blade, wire wheel etc followed my degreaser, brake cleaner etc. making sure not to nick or damage the surface. I used a 3M spray trim adhesive, it tacked up quickly held the gasket in place well and left little to no residual mess.. HTH.. Chuck.

 

[kenneyz]

I use a product called Hondabond 4. It's available at honda atv shop's and it is excellent stuff. It's not rtv, it's a grey semi-paste liquid that stays somewhat flexible. What I mean is it won't get rock hard like permatx or indian head will. I think of the old saying.."strong enough to bend" .It's impervious to gas, oil and anti-freeze when cured. I have never had bad seal when using this stuff...from RM250, to my ZR580, right down to the 3.8l V6 in my olds silouhett! I would agree...whatever you use surface prep is key...you've got to start spotless clean and dry if you want a good seal.