Converting 3 pt woods 6000 to subframe mount

[mhinch]

Converting 3 pt woods 6000 backhoe to subframe mount

I have a kubota L2600DT and found a Woods Groundbreaker 6000 3 pt mounted backhoe in Kubota orange for a price I couldn't pass up. I've used it for the past year as purchased but knew it was limited due to the mounting arrangement and finally just grit my teeth and spent the day doing the retrofit. I spent plenty of time researching this and there are a few good threads here, dfkrug probably has the best and most documented installations, as well as mng whose design I somewhat mimicked. There are those who design and install their subframes with the desire to leave their 3 pt arms in place. I chose to remove mine for clearance and fewer obstructions. Also worth noting is that I did not want to hang the unit from the 3 pt pivot pins on the rear axle. I took the dfkrug/Bradco installation method which is to attach to the ROPS plates on the bottom of the axle and tie to the FEL subframe toward the front.
Here's the backhoe


And the rear axle


This shows the path the 6" channel will take under the tractor. Note the plate I attached to in the upper right of the picture to the orange horizontal member of the FEL subframe.


In order to attach the 6" channel to the already existing mounts on the ROPS here's what I did.


And the mandatory weld bead


Here's the front bolted connection


In reading various posts and the manual I decided to set the height of the backhoe at 12" elevation. I was also able to tuck the unit substantially closer to the rear of the tractor as recommended. Here's a look at what I finished up with. I placed a 5 gal bucket in the frame for reference.


I was able to remove the seat from the 3 pt mount and adapt it to my subframe. In this photo you can see the 4" vertical channel with a short 2" horizontal section added then the rectangular tube receiver for the seat. Was welded to this. This allowed me to use the flip flop seats and makes for a very comfortable operator station.


Notes:
All materials used were already on hand
Built in < 8 hours
The ONLY way to attach a backhoe to a tractor
Keep things as wide as you can between the wheels and as close as possible to the rear of the tractor
If you're using a 3 pt mount, ditch it. Find yourself a weld/fab shop and have one built specific to your tractor

I'd be happy to assist by answering any questions you may have.

 

[R W]

A job well done.

 

[lostcause]

Looks good. I've been planning to do a similar thing, though I've been planning a slightly more complicated build - if possible I want to make a subframe that is unobtrusive enough so that I can leave attached to the tractor, and then build a 4-point mount that attaches to the subframe. The 4-point mounts that I have seen look good, and they have the added benefit of easy attachment abd not taking up as much space since the subframe remains on the tractor. Of course, there's a lot more to do with a plan like this, which is probably part of the reason why I haven't done it. maybe I should simplify a little and get it over with.

I do have one question though - unless I am missing something, your subframe is two 6" channels laid flat. Is there any sort of top attachment that I am missing? I'm just wondering how those will hold up to the strain of the backhoe cantilevered behind the last point of attachment. I was planning on 4" channel placed vertically, and I was still thinking I would need an attachment to the top of the axle, or the top link pin. I'd like to know how yours holds up, and whether there is any flexing or bending under heavy strain.

My tractor is a jd 770, which i think is very close in physical frame size to yours, though lower in power, but my backhoe is a woods 7500. I've been running mine with a 3pt mount and a pto pump. I don't have a huge number of hours on it, but it does bang and thrash around a lot. I need to make a new top link bracket for the back of the tractor, because mine has been stretched out over the years. This is part of my reason for wanting a subframe mount. The rest is because with the 3ph mount the backhoe is very low, and hangs out way behind the machine, so you are always dragging. i caught and ripped off the hose protection loop on the bottom of the boom last year. i'm also going to try running the backhoe off the tractor hydraulics instead: 5.6gpm tractor vs 6 gpm pump. that will allow a much closer mount.

Keep us posted on how this works.

 

[mhinch]

Here's a picture of it off the tractor and in paint. Note the angle braces that tie into the ROPS bar. I dug 3 stumps out with it today and you could have easily buried a cow in any of the holes and it passed with flying colors. Anyone need a 3 point adapter? Looking to sell the one I replaced. And thanks for the comments guys!

 

[2458n]

On the three point hitch the top link gets all the pull on it. I have a Arps 730 three point and a smaller one made for the L245dt. The Arps has a 2x2 piece of solid steel to replace the top link. I was warned that certain makes of tractor did not have enough metal in the *** end to use this set-up and would result in damage to the tractor. I just try to take my time since I own it and can not afford stupid repairs.

 

[mhinch]

I've got nothing attached to where the top link goes. I can tell you that the tensile load while digging is transferred via the diagonal braces to the ROPS tie in's. I've also used 1/2" diameter grade 8 bolts with the thinking that these would be the weakest link and fail well before any structural damage were to occur.
I'll use it some more and report back. Keep the comments coming

 

[lineman1954]

you are my kind of guy, nice fabbing sir, blessed thanksgiving.

 

[TMGT]

Re: Converting 3 pt woods 6000 backhoe to subframe mount

Looking good, when I built mine I kinda copied kubota and made the subframe stay with the tractor and the bh a 4pt quick attach.



Tractor side.



Backhoe side

It ties into the loader frame, ROPS mount, and rear axle. 2pins and 2 hoses, 1 electrical connector and it's off.

Subframe is the only way to go on a smaller cut IMHO, I can lift the back of the tractor off the ground or even pick the front end up if I'm pushing it. The whole tractor supported by the stabilizers and bh bucket is a lot of weight cantilevered out.

 

[1stDeuce]

Great thread, thanks for sharing, guys!!

I'm just about ready to start building a subframe mount for my Bradco 609, and these images are a great help! I am leaning toward the 4pt mount, vs. a subframe that stays with the BH... Seems like it would be easier to hook up the BH and take up less room to store... worth it in the long run.

 

[dfkrug]

I've got nothing attached to where the top link goes. I can tell you that the tensile load
while digging is transferred via the diagonal braces to the ROPS tie in's. I've also used 1/2" diameter grade 8 bolts
with the thinking that these would be the weakest link and fail well before any structural damage were to occur.

I like to use the toplink connection if it is accessible as an additional brace for my 4-pt subframes. Your hoe
may not allow that. The 1/2" bolts are smaller than I use for anything but the front subrame connection up
near the loader. I use 1" bolts for all rear connections.

Try this: while operating the hoe to its limits watch the subframe to see how much it flexes.

Good luck, and keep up the good work.