Considering a 10-10

[Brushhill dave]

Just wondering if there are many of these tractors out there and if there is any major defects with these machines to be wary of?! Thank you for any replys

 

[lambs]

Just wondering if there are many of these tractors out there and if there is any major defects with these machines to be wary of?! Thank you for any replys

If you're talking about a MF 1010 diesel, I have one. Mine is two wheel drive, straight shift, with turf tires. I hear the hydros are not that reliable though. Parts are getting scarce, but can still be found. The MF dealer can get a lot of parts, but not all. I just changed the gear shift bushing in mine, and it is plastic. Don't shift gears real hard. They are tough tractors overall.

If you get one, note that the glow plugs in mine take 10 seconds before they start heating, so give them time. Mine wants glow plugs even when it's 70 outside. Also, mine has a voltage drop at the starter after the current flows through the ignition switch and safety switches. I fixed this with an $8 Radio Shack relay. Now it cranks like a demon.

 

[Brushhill dave]

Thanks lambs, good to know. It's my dad that was asking if I knew anything about them and I said no but I knew somebody here would.

 

[lambs]

Beyond all that, you need to know the 1010 was made for MF by Hinomoto, using a Toyosha diesel engine. Since they made tractors for other brands as well, you sometimes can find a part by going with a gray market tractor equivalent part. That's how I think I sourced the gear shift ball bushing. MF couldn't get one for me. I ended up giving the dealer the email address of the supplier I used for their future reference!

 

[Brushhill dave]

Thanks

 

[handirifle]

If you're talking about a MF 1010 diesel, I have one. Mine is two wheel drive, straight shift, with turf tires. I hear the hydros are not that reliable though. Parts are getting scarce, but can still be found. The MF dealer can get a lot of parts, but not all. I just changed the gear shift bushing in mine, and it is plastic. Don't shift gears real hard. They are tough tractors overall.

If you get one, note that the glow plugs in mine take 10 seconds before they start heating, so give them time. Mine wants glow plugs even when it's 70 outside. Also, mine has a voltage drop at the starter after the current flows through the ignition switch and safety switches. I fixed this with an $8 Radio Shack relay. Now it cranks like a demon.

Lambs
Do you or can you do a rough sketch of the wiring you did? I noticed that most vehicles have the battery terminal go to the starter and gives direct power when the solenoid activates. This one, however goes through the ign switch first, as you pointed out. What the heck??

Anyway, that sounds like a worthwhile mod to do.


Dave
I have a MF1010 also, mine is 4WD, manual shift, with AG tires. I bought it used and have owned and used it for about 2 years now. I have worked the dickens out of this little tractor and it just keeps on going. Mine has the FEL and rotating Gannon on the rear. Got it for $4,000. For that price, though, I have replaced most of the hyd hoses (several of the steel lines were replaced with hoses by someone before me) and added 2 new front tires. It looks like I may need a new alternator soon too, but for the $$$ I cannot complain at all. Mine too, needs about 25-30 seconds of glow plugs, regardless of outside temp.

I just adapted a float based fuel cap/gauge from an old riding mower to work on my MF1010. The fuel is an idiot light to tell you when low. If mine works, I'd never know it cause it's never been bright enough to see. this one has a float that as it rises or falls, it rotates a needle that is visible in the top of the fuel cap. Now I can see the fuel status at a glance. No more removing the cap and trying to see in the tank.:thumbsup:

 

[Brushhill dave]

Great info thank you, I'll pass it on to my dad.

 

[Michael a h]

ive seen um fer sale and people usin the 10-10 ive got a 10-30 and love it but 10-10 is a bit smaller and will git er done and i havent herd anythang bad bout um

 

[bbraud6]

Look at the reviews page, there is a new one just posted on a MF 1010

 

[lambs]

Regarding the relay on the starter, my PC is dead and I have not yet tried to retrieve the files, but I can describe the relay installation.

Get the relay at Radio Shack. I think if you google "cub cadet starting problems" you might find a reference to it, with possibly better instructions than I can give here. I think that is where I found it.

Basically, you mount the relay to the firewall, in my case just under the fuel tank behind and just higher than the starter. Be sure you ground it; I did this with a sheet metal screw into the firewall as part of the mount for the relay.

What you want to do is take the wire coming to the starter from the safety switches, and use it to trip the relay instead of trying to trip the starter solenoid. It's got plenty of voltage for a relay, but in my case, not quite enough for the solenoid.

Connect a wire from the 12 v hot side starter post (from the battery) to the relay, and connect the other side of the relay back over to the solenoid, where the safety switch wire used to be.

When you crank the tractor, the ignition current will go through the safety switches as usual, then it will switch on the Radio Shack relay, which will switch on the current directly from the battery to the solenoid with little or no voltage loss. That will make it crank with authority.

I like the idea of the fuel gauge....what did you get the fuel gauge from?