Cold Starting for Dummys (Jinma 24)

mantis166 · Feb 21, 2006

I have a 6 month old Jinma (224) with 34 hours and my first winter. Not real cold here (45 degrees) but still am sure I am not starting my tractor right because it is slow to start. Need help from beginning.
1.) Key start has 4 positions (Off, on, H, annd st) which position heats up glow plugs?
2.) decompression lever-is it decompressed when in straight up position where you have to hold it there.
3.) Are you suppose to hold decompression lever in this upright position until the tractor fully starts?
4.) Everyone keeps mentioning amp meter but I don't think I have one. Just fuel, battery charge, temp. and one more but don't see amp meter.

Sorry for ignorance but do not want to hurt tractor doing it wrong and chineese owners manual tells me squat. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Soundguy · Feb 21, 2006

/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif I'll bite.. i hope this isn't a fishing expedition.

Though as many of the folks here point out.. I don't own a chinese tractor.. however.. your questions are mostly self answering.

1 H on the key switch sounds like heat..

2 Since you have to have compression for a diesel engine to start.. it makes sense that the position it is in at 'rest' is the running position, and the position you have to hold it in is the decompressed position.

3 You are a funny guy! Holding the decomp holds the valves open to get rpms up and oil pressure... Not sure how you will get a compression engine to 'fully start' with a lack of compression. ( NO )

4 Amp meter.. hmm.. charge.. see a relationship between these two terms.... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif... An ammeter registers charge rate.. They come in many forms.. from 0-+X amperage gauges showing positive charge, -0+ gauges showing net charge / discharge via nedle deflection, and simple charge "idiot' lamps that glow indicating a discharge ( no charge ) condition. Again.. not sure what you have.. but depending on model and options.. i hear that you can either have individual gauges.. or a cluster unit.

If you imported yourself.. good luck and have fun on the tractor. If you bought from a private individual or a dealer.. they didn't do you any favors by not explaining any of this to you!

Good luck!

Soundguy

JINMA224XR · Feb 21, 2006

I have a 6 month old Jinma (224) with 34 hours and my first winter. Not real cold here (45 degrees) but still am sure I am not starting my tractor right because it is slow to start. Need help from beginning.
1.) Key start has 4 positions (Off, on, H, annd st) which position heats up glow plugs?
2.) decompression lever-is it decompressed when in straight up position where you have to hold it there.
3.) Are you suppose to hold decompression lever in this upright position until the tractor fully starts?
4.) Everyone keeps mentioning amp meter but I don't think I have one. Just fuel, battery charge, temp. and one more but don't see amp meter.

Sorry for ignorance but do not want to hurt tractor doing it wrong 

Hello mantis166,

I also have a Jinma 224, with 130 hours and using my start procedure, mine usually starts first time, everytime.

Here we go: /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

1. Out of Gear & Depress Clutch

2. Little bit of Hand Throttle, just a little bit above idle speed

3. Turn Decompression Lever Straight Up and Hold

4. Turn the Ignition Switch to the Heat Postion for the Glow Plugs---- You will see the Chargeing Meter Peg to the Left. If it doesn't Move, then you will know that your glow plug circuit is not functioning. Hold that position for about 5 to 20 seconds, depending on how cold it is, but not longer, as it may burn the glow plugs out.

5. Turn the Ignition Switch to Start---

6. Listen to your engine--- After the engine starts spinning, release the Decompression Lever and the engine should start. Some wait until the Oil Pressure Gauge begins to show pressure, before releaseing the Decompression Lever, that part is up to you. Do not operate the starter for more than 5 to 10 seconds.

5. If the engine doesn't start, then wait a little bit and repeat prodedure.

6. After the engine starts, then adjust the hand throttle to obtain an idle warm up speed for about 5 to 10 minutes.

The only step that I don't use everytime, is the Glow Plugs, but that is only when the engine is still warm.

However, I use the Decompression Lever on every start, whether the Ambient Temperature is warm or cold or even if the Engine is Warm or Cold. Using the Decompression Lever, helps the Battery and Starter to Last Longer, Plus it sounds pretty cool to me. Sort of like hearing a Jet Engine beginning to turn over.

I envite you to join the Chinese Tractor Owners Forum, Here is the address:

http://nortrac.proboards26.com/index.cgi

Hope this helps,
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

RonMar · Feb 21, 2006

Your charge meter should be labeled with a 0 in the middle and a 30 on either side. This is also called the amp meter. When needle moves to the left, you are pulling current from the battery. When it moves to the right you are adding that much current to the battery from the alternator. As mentioned when you activate the glow plugs, they will cause the amp meter to peg to the left as they draw around 30 amps of current. As they warm up, they draw less current so by the end of about 15 or so seconds, the amp gauge should have moved back up around the 20 amp position left of center. Mine sticks a little so I sometimes have to tap the panel to see the needle start to move back towards center. As soon as I see this movement, I turn the switch the rest of the way to crank the engine. The plugs are wired in parallel so if they are not drawing the full 30 amps, you may have a bad plug. Dont use the plugs for more than about 20 seconds as this is hard on them and will wear them out sooner

As mentioned, no compression = no run so the position the lever is in(down on my 284) when the engine is running is the disengaged position. In addition to easing the load on the starter, the compression release also eases the load on the rod bearings. Diesels are very high compression engines. Without using the compression release, those first few crank revolutions that jam those pistons up against that high compression load, does so with out oil pressure in the crankshaft. Without that protective layer of pressurized oil, the rod bearings are forced down against the rod journals on the crankshaft and tend to squeeze out what was left of the oil that was in there from the last run. Metal to metal contact is bad. By using the compression release, you allow pressurized oil to reach the bearing surfaces before the heavy loads are applied to the bearings. Crank till you see oil pressure(around 2-3 seconds) then drop the compression lever and it should start right up. as soon as you hear the cylinders start to fire, release the start switch.

mantis166 · Feb 21, 2006

Thank you all for the very helpful posts. I have been taking 10 - 20 minutes to get my tractor started when cold and using your instructions, it started first time. I was not using decompression right and turning key to on like a regular deisel truck and thinking that the glow plugs were heating up. I just wished that I had asked sooner since I probably fouled things doing it wrong so many times.

Paddy · Feb 21, 2006

Sound Guy

Now, be nice. A lot of new Diesel guys have not thought through the process of how diesels work. Remeber, you and I are engineers.. this stuff is some what intuitive. Spelling on the other hand I'll leave to my wife. I keep mine tractor in a heated garage so starting at 11 deg F is no problem!

As always, I like your input to solve problems. Keep it coming. Oh, and you might want to consider getting a China made...if it's a KAMA

Patrick

JINMA224XR · Feb 21, 2006

I have been taking 10 - 20 minutes to get my tractor started when cold and using your instructions, it started first time. I was not using decompression right and turning key to on like a regular deisel truck and thinking that the glow plugs were heating up. I just wished that I had asked sooner since I probably fouled things doing it wrong so many times.


Hello Mantis166,

That's what we want to hear, "First Time Every Time". /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

You're Singing my Song Now. Glad to help you and hope to see you in the Owners Forum.

We won't make fun of you over there!!! We are just owners helping each other.

Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

MrFixit · Feb 22, 2006

Yeah, I'm new to tractors also and I expect to ask some funny questions. And of course get some funny answers.

Tim

Soundguy · Feb 22, 2006

( Sound Guy...
Now, be nice. A lot of new Diesel guys have not thought through the process of how diesels work )

I added the requisite smiley's.. but was just hoping it wasn't just a fishing post.. glad it wasn't.

( Remeber, you and I are engineers.. this stuff is some what intuitive. )

That's what manuals are for! course.. i do like the creative grammer that comes from the asian translated manuals... the ones for my yanmar are almost comedy / fiction..e tc..
/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

( Spelling on the other hand I'll leave to my wife )

If I'm typing for a project, i get fairly accureate.. and slow.. only about 45wpm. For email.. I bang it at about 90wpm and don't stop for spelling errors.. even if i know i made one /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif..

( Oh, and you might want to consider getting a China made...if it's a KAMA )

There are now 2 places along the main drag where I live and work that sell chineese tractors... man.. those 3900$ ones are tempting... I honestly wish I would have got one when they were 2900 about 6-7 ys ago... now that would have had to been a win-win deal... even if I had to change alot of bolt on parts like switch, starter, alternator and hydro pump.. glow plgs..etc altogether..etc..

Soundguy