Clutch replacement/repair

   / Clutch replacement/repair #1  

jacspath

Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2011
Messages
38
Location
Ulster Co. NY
Tractor
Kubota L185DT
I'm a newby and so posted this on the newby forum w/o realizing there was a Kubota forum which is more appropriate so I'm re posting here.

So here's my story. I have Kubota L185DT with regular tractor tires. It has a front end loader. I am a second owner and have had it for 13 years. Prior own was a resort and it got a bit of abuse, but I knew that when I bought it at a bankrupt sale. I have several 3 point hitch implements [york rake, Kelly B10A backhoe, and 3 rotor PTO drive finish mower deck, etc.]. When I got it, I sensed the clutch was slipping so I adjusted it all the way out and have nursed it for all this time. This spring when I took the backhoe off and put on the mower deck I got 'that smell' which told me that the clutch is about gone. The tractor works fine with good power and the clutch will carry it on a flat surface in hi gear [8th] but almost any up grade will bring the smell. The clutch will run the PTO hydraulic pump for the backhoe with no problem.
Problem: the local Kubota dealer wants $2400 [his estimate without even seeing the tractor so who knows what else will show up] to put in a new clutch. I can't afford that [I'm retired on basically a fixed income but I have plenty of time and a lot of skill but no sophisticated tools]. I need this little critter to adequately maintain my property [12 Ac of meadow, but I do not harvest hay, and woodlot where I cut my firewood to heat my home]. Can anyone help me find online help to help me assess if I can do this job myself and help me find reasonably priced parts? If any of you have done this job in your back yard, I would appreciate your thoughts on what I'm getting into. Thanks all.
 
   / Clutch replacement/repair #3  
Hi, The L185 is similar to several other 1980's models. You can do the job yourself. The clutch is cheap - about $54 here - should replace the release bearing too - that's about $25 here. The job takes a few hours of patience - but it sounds like you have plenty of that. Forget that $2400 quote - someone is looking for you to make his boat payment :laughing:.

You'll need a clutch alignment pilot tool for putting it back together if the new clutch doesn't come with one. (can make one from a wooden broom handle in a pinch) The job goes better if you have a flat floor, a rolling jack and a clean 7-8 gallon container for the tractor oil (assuming you'll put it back in)

Here are some notes I posted about a clutch job on a L345.

To do the clutch the loader can stay on. We raised it way up and put wood braces in to keep it there. Took off the hood, drained the transmission oil, unhooked the hydraulic pipes on the side of the engine and all the cables & wires going from engine to firewall, took out the 4 bolts holding the loader side frames to the chin bar, took out the bellhousing and starter bolts, and hammered a couple wood wedges in to keep the front axle from tilting.

Next we put blocks under the transmission to hold the back end of the tractor up - and put a rolling jack under the engine for rolling away the axle and engine. Don't overlook unbolting the steering rod and the strut from the radiator support back to the firewall.

If the tractor's never been apart, it takes some fiddling to start separating it. Once its apart, the clutch cover comes right off (6 bolts) and the clutch disk is then loose. You'll be surprised at how little difference in thickness there is between the new one and the worn-out one.

Bolt the pressure plate (clutch cover) back on using an alignment dowel to center the new clutch disk. While the tractor is split, lubricate the clutch pedal cross-shaft where it turns in the bellhousing. They get rusty and tight there. Also, grease the snout on the transmission where the release bearing slides back and forth. Don't forget to put in the new release bearing. You'll need to back off your linkage for the new thicker clutch disk.

Putting the front half of the tractor back in place takes a little pushing and shoving - but when it's all lined up it slips together pretty easy.

The loader and tractor halves are heavy - so go slow, plan your moves, work safe. PM with questions anytime. Have fun, Dick B
 
Last edited:

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2011 JCB 541-70 TELESCOPIC FORKLIFT (A51242)
2011 JCB 541-70...
2014 New Holland T8.360 MFWD Tractor (A52128)
2014 New Holland...
UNUSED CFG Industrial MX15RX Mini Excavator (A47384)
UNUSED CFG...
2004 Sterling L8500 4,000 Gallon T/A Water Truck (A50323)
2004 Sterling...
Payment Terms (MUST READ) (A50775)
Payment Terms...
71060 (A49346)
71060 (A49346)
 
Top