Clutch problems?

[Iplayfarmer]

I posted this in the Iseki forum, but I might get more/better response here...

I think my clutch is going out on my TX1500. I want some advice, though, because it doesn't act like a normal "bad clutch" problem.

When I press the clutch all the way down it doesn't fully dissengage. It's as if I can't push the pedal down far enough, and I can still feel the engine trying to turn the wheels. I thought when a clutch went out it was the other way around... i.e. the clutch wouldn't engage and you're just sitting there with the engine running going nowhere.

Is it the clutch, or is there something else (hopefully cheaper and easier to fix)?

 

[slowrev]

Sounds like a clutch linkage adjustment issue to me.

Ben

 

[82orioles]

I own a B7100D with a mechanical clutch and I am having similar problems. I press on the clutch pedal and my tranny will disengage, but then the clutch will hook up again. While I am sitting with the pedal depressesd the clutch will pick back up again and start the tractor rolling. So far I haven't been able to get any help with mine.
Is your clutch Hydraulic? Check fluid level. Check Linkage adjustments on clutch pedal.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Cluck linkage...

Sounds cheap and easy.

Now I need some good excuse for getting off work early so that I can get home and tinker some more.

 

[JerryG]

Have you checked the adjustment to spec?

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I just ordered a service manual yesterday so that I would know the spec. It won't be here for a few days.

Any suggestions in the mean time? Is there an improvised WAG method for clutch linkage adjustment?

Anyone know what the clutch linkage spec is for an Iseki TX1500?

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

Iplayfarmer, The clutch is not releasing. If you have a mechanical clutch ?? youre odds are it is out of adjustment. There may be two adjustments. Check the book. First step in trouble shooting.

Ronald

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

82orioles, Youre problems sounds just like it has a hydraulic clutch ??? Like if the clutch fluid is not getting low....then fluid would be leaking by inside the clutch master cyl or slave cyl at the release bearing which would cause youre problem? Good one

Ronald

 

[bncsauve]

Check the stop for the clutch pedal. Mine vibrated loose causing the pedal to hit the stop too soon. The clutch wouldn't disengage. I readjusted it and its working fine.

 

[andrewj]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I posted this in the Iseki forum, but I might get more/better response here...

I think my clutch is going out on my TX1500. I want some advice, though, because it doesn't act like a normal "bad clutch" problem.

When I press the clutch all the way down it doesn't fully dissengage. It's as if I can't push the pedal down far enough, and I can still feel the engine trying to turn the wheels. I thought when a clutch went out it was the other way around... i.e. the clutch wouldn't engage and you're just sitting there with the engine running going nowhere.

Is it the clutch, or is there something else (hopefully cheaper and easier to fix)?
)</font>

please, please adjust this yourself! I made this same mistake and sent it back to the dealer -it was ONE NUT that needed adjustment on the linkage...i felt like a fool...but I had the same problem as you did.

 

[82orioles]

Clutch is mechanical. I finally got freeplay adjusted to spec. and also adjusted pedal travel to spec. and problem has improved but still ocassionally will not disengage. If i slow motor down it solves problem.

 

[82orioles]

The clutch will also have problems disengaging if your pedal travel is too far.

 

[slowrev]

Are all your engine to clutch housing bolts tight ? Just a thought.

Ben

 

[OffBalance]

Clutches can also stick to the flywheel. But this usually only occurs if they haven't been used in a long time.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I tried it all. I adjusted the linkage. I checked everything I could from outside the tractor. When all else failed I tore into the tractor to see what I could see.

The attached file is what I could see. It looks like the release bearing went out some time ago. (Possibly before I got the tractor.) The stuck bearing then rubbed on the "fingers" of the pressure plate until nothing was left.

I'm still in the process of tearing it apart, but I thought I'd share with you all before I went further.

I am going to check the clutch disk to see how worn it is, and if the disk doesn't look too bad, I may just replace the bearing and pressure plate.

Any thoughts?

 

[Glenn9643]

Seems like there would have been some racket when that throwout bearing went out!
It wouldn’t take too long to cause that damage after the bearing froze.

JUST A WORD OF CAUTION REGARDING REPLACEMENT OF YOUR PRESSURE PLATE.

When my pressure plate was replaced at the dealer’s shop I watched the process and learned something. Many of these that are used on tractors require adjustment to the fingers prior to installation, and this adjustment is critical. I’ve replace automotive pressure plates and they were simply take off the old and put on the new, but that won’t work on some of those used in tractors. If you don’t have a shop manual you need to determine if adjustment or setting of the fingers is required and what that setting is. If it’s not done correctly it won’t work properly and won’t hold up properly. Good luck.

 

[skipmarcy]

Glen9643 is right about the finger adjustment, and it is usually difficult to measure. I had to make a custom "gauge" to measure mine as the spec. was from the flywheel surface to the finger surface with everything installed and there was no accessing the flywheel surface with everything in place. Just take your time and you'll come up with a reasonable way to do it on your tractor. Don't forget, checking only the friction surface wear on the disc is asking for trouble - springs lose tension and discs warp and splines wear. I would put one in while there unless expense is too limiting, also a pilot bearing and checking the flywheel surface for trueness. I was able to get both my release & pilot bearings from a local supplier by the numbers on the old bearings - saved a ton over OEM parts. Also shopped on the Internet and got reman. disc & plate for less than 1/2 of OEM parts. Good luck with it !!

 

[Glenn9643]

as the spec. was from the flywheel surface to the finger surface with everything installed and there was no accessing the flywheel surface with everything in place.

When they adjusted mine prior to installation I believe they placed it on a flat plate (steel) to make measurements before mounting to the flywheel. Even then it was very tedious to get it set properly.

 

[skipmarcy]

Did they bolt or clamp the pressure plate down? The spec. on my Mahindra was for the pressure plate installed - the fingers move lower towards the flywheel when you torque the pressure plate down. The disc has to be in there too, of course, and some disc hubs protrude into the cavity in the center of the flywheel - would not be able to put it on a flat plate unless a hole were there and this is the area you would use a sliding t-scale or similar to measure with. Maybe they had this plate made-up custom for them?

 

[Glenn9643]

I really don’t recall the detail. I’m pretty sure they made the adjustments off the tractor and I don’t think the steel plate was anything special other than a flat surface. There was quite a bit of head-scratching until they figured out how they could make their measurements. They used an electronic caliper of sorts when they got it figured out.