I know it's not a compact, but I have a JD2040S and I hope someone can help. Last July the clutch went very slack and had so much freeplay that I couldn't get it into gear (no resistance when putting pedal down). I had a mechanic out who adjusted the clutch rod enough that it could be driven. He said it needed new clutch so took it back to his place and supposedly put in new Vapormatic clutch and flywheel (told me JD would cost ｣1000, but I just had quote for JD clutch of ｣430???) The tractor has done about 60 hours since then of light work but now I'm experiencing the same thing again. The clutch surely can't have worn out that quick? I've adjusted the clutch rod enough that I can get it in gear but there is still way too much freeplay, no resistance etc. I thought when a clutch wears out it gets less freeplay? Tractor has been fine, and no warning of this. Any ideas? I can't afford a new clutch right now and really need the tractor working. A local dealer has suggested checking the clutch reservoir - where is this and what do I put in it? I found a reservior behind the steering wheel when I took the cover off to get at the clutch, is this it? I've also topped up th hydraulic and transmission oil. Sorry for all the questions, any help much appreciated.
Clutch problem - please help!
- Thread starter hward
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TractorTech
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The culprit is the hydraulic portion of the clutch. The reservoir you found is for the clutch and uses Dot 3 brake fluid, like many cars. The adjustment you made on the clutch needs to be put back where it was. Fill the reservoir with fluid and bleed the system. If the clutch goes out of adjustment again and you aren't leaking fluid on either the master (pedal) cylinder or the slave (clutch housing), then you need to rebuild or replace one or both cylinders. The slave is most likely the problem when this happens. The kit runs about US$85.00.
Attached is the parts schematic.
Attached is the parts schematic.
samjohnsonus
New member
I think were hydraulic (fluid) system is !
Tx Jim
New Member
The bleeder screw is beside the line on the slave cyl(parts key #28) I've never bled one of those slave cylinders but I've read where they're very difficult to bleed the air out of them. Good luck
Thanks everyone. Managed to find it and too it today. It was pretty difficult as the valve was fairly rusty and nothing seemed to come out - no air bubbles out the pipe at least - but after much pumping of the clutch I've now got full resistance back on it and it's going into gear fine, phew! I'm even beginning to think I was ripped off last year and it didn't need a new clutch at all, just bleeding, but at least I'll know for future.
TractorTech
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- Ford 7710, Ford 550, Ford 1910, Ford 4430, KD Forklift, Ford LGT17H, New Holland L255 Skidsteer
Just able to get my response posted and read yours on getting it bled. Re-edit and added response.
As you found out that you need to apply penetrating fluid to the bleed screw as they tend to seize, but if you had a new clutch installed, the mechanic would have had to bleed it.
Also, I have had the most success bleeding the system by holding or pushing back the clutch shaft at the bell housing while depressing the clutch pedal to expel the air.
I tend to agree on the clutch replacement as being possibly unnecessary, but without seeing to old disc, it is difficult to comment.
Keep an eye out for leaking fluid at either cylinder. You should be able to tell if one has been leaking as brake fluid is a great paint remover and leaves a tell-tale sign of an old leak in that manner.
As you found out that you need to apply penetrating fluid to the bleed screw as they tend to seize, but if you had a new clutch installed, the mechanic would have had to bleed it.
Also, I have had the most success bleeding the system by holding or pushing back the clutch shaft at the bell housing while depressing the clutch pedal to expel the air.
I tend to agree on the clutch replacement as being possibly unnecessary, but without seeing to old disc, it is difficult to comment.
Keep an eye out for leaking fluid at either cylinder. You should be able to tell if one has been leaking as brake fluid is a great paint remover and leaves a tell-tale sign of an old leak in that manner.
Had lost most of the pressure when I got in it yesterday, but once I started it up and pumped the clutch a few times it came right back up. Had it out along the road to empty trailer at farm and noticed a slight oil leak on the slave cylinder but farmer there said it'll be ok for now so long as fluid kept topped up and then he'll replace when needed. Clutch was ok this morning though and hadn't gone soft at all. 
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.