I posted here a couple of months ago and got some great advice. Thank you. I ended up contracting for a 40'X90'X10' pole barn structure. 26 gauge galvalume roof with 6X6 poles with the ends open. The initial project should be finished by mid-July. I'm going to be pouring concrete for the floor and will be closing this thing in with wood siding. I wanted to ask for ideas on closing in the ends. Do I need to sink additional 6X6 poles on the ends, then nail to that? Or, can I stick-build those walls with 2X4s which are anchored into the concrete and attached to the end poles? Thanks in advance for your response.
Closing in the ends of a pole barn?
- Thread starter rick1ryan
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LS Tractor Owner
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Since the barn is 'self supporting' on it's own, framing in the ends w/ 2x4's would be the easiest way to go. I've seen it done out here many times. You didn't mention if you would be putting doors in the ends, that could change how it should be done.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I would stick build it. Just make sure they pour a footing in your concrete slab to support the wall, and that it's deep enough for your location.
Zebrafive
Super Member
If you were doing big doors you would need to support the header. Walk doors no problem.
LS Tractor Owner
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Walk through doors (entry doors) don't change anything, I was referring if there were overhead doors whether fold or roll-up type, that would just change the support needed for the doors.
Thanks for the input. To be honest, I was about to miss pouring the footers on the ends as I'd originally thought to do poles on the ends. The ends won't have any load, other than the wall itself. Once the barn contractor finishes I'll go ahead and dig the footers and bring in the final load of gravel (already have 2 loads spread of crusher run) and compact in preparation for the concrete.
Coyote Kilr
New member
Make sure you build the end walls using balloon framing as opposed to 10' high walls with attached gable framing. Much stronger in the wind.
Balloon Framing (#9) for ADU - YouTube
Balloon Framing (#9) for ADU - YouTube
Thank you, I wasn't familiar with this style of framing. So basically, instead of framing up a 10' high wall and stacking on top of it you're saying to put down a footer, then attach a header to the purlins and nail in longer 2X4s that span between the two? That actually sounds like smarter way to do it than I was trying to envision. One thing's for certain, this project is certainly proving to be interesting and I'm having fun getting to learn new stuff. One question, I just got a bid in from a septic guy yesterday. He said he'd put down the tank, run field lines and plumb 4 bathrooms (single toilet/sink in each) and pour it in concrete for $3500. Could it really be that cheap? BTW, I'm looking to add a lean-to structure and put the bathrooms in that.
Coyote Kilr
New member
Yes, you can either build it in place the way you described or frame it all on the ground and stand it up. Of course that may be a challenge getting it to squeeze in the open area. Technically you don't need headers over windows and doors (except for overhead doors) because it's a non-bearing wall but it never hurts.
Not sure if there's a plumbing thread here on the forum where this should be answered so here goes. I did my entire septic system about 6 years ago and haven't had any issues. It's easier than you might think just a lot of work if done right. The plumbing quote you describe doesn't sound bad. Does he supply an engineered design drawing? That's usually at least around $500 by itself. I'm sure the town/county will want the engineers stamp. Also it is imperative that he use a power tamper with 4-6" of crushed stone under the septic tank. Then hand tamp the soil under all the lines between house and tank, between tank and distribution box, and between d-box and all laterals. Again power tamp under the laterals if the virgin soil is disturbed with the hoe. This is to prevent settling and separation of joints. Good luck!
Not sure if there's a plumbing thread here on the forum where this should be answered so here goes. I did my entire septic system about 6 years ago and haven't had any issues. It's easier than you might think just a lot of work if done right. The plumbing quote you describe doesn't sound bad. Does he supply an engineered design drawing? That's usually at least around $500 by itself. I'm sure the town/county will want the engineers stamp. Also it is imperative that he use a power tamper with 4-6" of crushed stone under the septic tank. Then hand tamp the soil under all the lines between house and tank, between tank and distribution box, and between d-box and all laterals. Again power tamp under the laterals if the virgin soil is disturbed with the hoe. This is to prevent settling and separation of joints. Good luck!