Clearing a trail for my RTV & 4 wheelers...

[Dargo]

Okay, here is my situation, I want to clear a lot of trails through some general shrub brush for trails to drive my RTV and Rhino on. This is on land that basically hasn't been touched for 5 or more years with anything. My first thought was to simply lower my FEL to about 6" off of the groung (to catch anything big...like a rock) and run my brush hog behind me to make the trails. However, after thinking about that, I'm afraid that all I'll do then is to insure that I have plenty of flats on my RTV and Rhino from the short stalks left sticking up. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Right now I'm rather stumped. Any ideas on how to accomplish my goal? I thought about coming back with my finish mower after using the brush hog, but I'm afraid that it will get the blades all beat to heck from the stalks. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Solutions??

 

[theboman]

Take the bush hog first and then use a rear blade or box blade. That should take care of trail making. As far as the little nubs, if any remain the traffic will get rid of those in short order.

 

[PM1]

I've done a fair amount of trail clearing as well, so I'll offer my experience if it's helpful. Some of my trails have been cut through timbered areas, which means there are sizeable stumps hidden throughout the thick brush. Like you suggested, I set my FEL to about 6 - 8 inches off the ground and use it as an "obstacle finder." Just make sure you mow very slowly to avoid nasty jarring when you "find" something.

I usually make at least two passes with the Bush Hog. On the first pass, I usually set the cutting height to 8-10 inches. That way I can mow right over any obstacle I don't "find" with the FEL.

After the first pass, I usually walk the new trail and clear any obstacles by hand (you could certainly use your FEL to remove large rocks, etc.) I usually remove logs and stumps with a chain saw. It's easy to see the obstacles and to walk since the heavy brush has been cut by the first mowing pass.

For the next pass, I lower the Bush Hog to about 4 inches. This helps mulch up some of the larger pieces left from the first pass, and it leaves a path that's pretty easy to walk or navigate with a pickup or other vehicle.

One of the benefits of a Bush Hog type cutter is that it typically leaves shredded stalks instead of sharp ones. Those shredded stalks are generally soft enough that they shouldn't cause punctures on most tires. You might want to try cutting a section of trail and then evaluating whether the stalks are too sharp for you liking. I suppose you could also consider cutting only to a height of 10-12 inches and leaving tall stalks, which would likely get pushed over by vehicle tires instead of poking into them. I've never left the stalks tall (I like to be able to walk through without catching my boots) and I've haven't had any puncture problems yet.

Of course, over time (and with subsequent mowings), those stalks will all disappear and you'll be left with grass on your trail.

Good luck!

Parker

 

[bczoom]

Dargo,

Do you have slime in your tires? I also "think" it would pretty hard for the stalks to go through the 6-ply tires you're running.

I'd say the path (no pun intended) that you and PM1 are taking is probably the best idea to retain a grassy trail.

Not sure about the total distance of the trails but I'd consider using a brush or strong weed killer (not grass killer) in the spring. I figure you have a lot of trails so I'd run with a spot sprayer on the RTV or Rhino to spot spray anything new that starts coming up.

If the terrain or obstacles are more than what your FEL and Bush Hog want (or you need to adjust terrain), a dozer for a weekend could do this. At least on my trails, it doesn't take long for new vegetation to re-establish itself in the dirt so by next summer, it could be a grassy surface again.

Brian

 

[EddieWalker]

I don't know what type of tires you have on your RTV, but my ten year old 4 wheelers still have the original tires on them, and I haven' t had any issues with stems and stalks.

I shred my trails and then right away ride over them with no problems. If I'm having company over, I'll cut new trails and they ride on them right away.

Each time I mow the trails they get better and better.

I wouldn't drag a box blade over them. Seems to me you'd just make a big mess and create more work for yourself.

 

[1bush2hog]

I'm working on the same. Not knowing what types of shrubs you are talking about, nor how level your terrain is my process may not work for you.

My terrain is level to fairly steep in places and has locust, russian olive, and hardwood vegetation. Since I could not see in front of me when I started my clearing process, I chose to make the first pass in reverse (crawfish style) keeping the brush mower high and then lowering slowly until I could see existing obsticles. Get off use chainsaw, move rocks, etc. if necessary and then progress backwards in same manner. Slow and cautious is the method I chose, but I am getting there. I did not want to use boxblade due to potential erosion issues.

I also upgraded my tires on my atv to 6-ply as the russian olives have thorns that can penetrate tractor tires easily (arms, legs, and head too). Once I have 'rough' cleared the area, I then go back with the brush hog in the opposite direction with lower setting this beats the stubbies from the initial pass more than cutting and frays the tops so as not to leave them sharp, but rather somewhat shredded.

My experience is that most of the stubbies left over are generally not pungee type after this and are now less likely to puncture and will also breakdown and go away quicker.

I then can take a pair of heaver duty hand pruners or small chain saw and cut off the few remaining tough stubs, leaving them flat and closer to the ground.

A cheaper solution to new tires, since your machines are pretty new, would be slime or similar additive to your stock tires. It is not too expensive at wally world and I hear it works good, although I do not use it.



I would not even consider the use of a finish mower or blade on my trail as I want them to be for hiking and atv only.