CK2610 Tilt Cylinder repair

[12Bravo]

Hello all

I ain't been around near as much as I once was. Life has away of taking over and my tractor isn't anything more than a tool for the property. Sometimes funds and time have to be placed elsewhere.

I FINALLY! After, Lord I can't remember how long. I made a post back when it first broke then life took over and tractor took a back seat.

Today I was able to do a simple test. Extended tilt cylinders fully, unscrewed rod end lines and applied dump pressure with tractor running. About a ten foot high jet of oil came from left cylinder (while sitting on tractor). Needless to say, I found the issue!

When Kioti list parts, is LH and RH designated as if you were sitting on tractor or standing in front of the tractor? Kind of important distinction. The rods are listed differently and cost differently for whatever reason.

Once I pulled the cylinder off, the rod just fell out of the cylinder.

Now I'm faced with what to do from here. I'm sure I can get the cap off and pull the guts so to speak out without damaging the tube.
I looked online and found a replacement rod and piston. Around $230 total (Not sure if I can say where from on here).
What challenges am I looking to get myself into? This is a first for me. Bleeding the lines and filling cylinder, I would assume needs to be done.

As a side note, 1394 hours is when my fuel pump busted a hole in the diaphragm. Just replaced the fuel pump cause I couldn't find a diaphragm. Why has our society went to a throw it away and buy new instead of disassemble and repair? Like brushed for my Makita drill my father gave in back in the 1990's.....LOL

 

[ptsg]

Take the rest of the cylinder apart so you can pull the piston and the broken thread section of the rod with the nut attached. Inspect to see if it's still in good shape, if yes, then all you need is a new rod. Save the nut from the broken on and you're good to go.

Also and more important, take a good look inside the barrel for any scratches or dents. If there is any, you'll need a new barrel. With the broken parts just floating in side the barrel, it can create some damage.

You may want to change the seals since you're at it.

I wonder if the LH and RH cylinder is because of the bucket lever indicator (on the RH cylinder). The rods should be the same.

 

[12Bravo]

Take the rest of the cylinder apart so you can pull the piston and the broken thread section of the rod with the nut attached. Inspect to see if it's still in good shape, if yes, then all you need is a new rod. Save the nut from the broken on and you're good to go.

Also and more important, take a good look inside the barrel for any scratches or dents. If there is any, you'll need a new barrel. With the broken parts just floating in side the barrel, it can create some damage.

You may want to change the seals since you're at it.

I wonder if the LH and RH cylinder is because of the bucket lever indicator (on the RH cylinder). The rods should be the same.

To pull the rod end cap, I don't have a tool to fit into the hole provided. Suggestion to make sure I don't damage barrel?

LH it is, I didn't think of the level indicator...LOL

 

[ptsg]

A big pipe wrench will pull the cap out, although it will leave some marks on it. Those things are usually fairly tight. I usually use a chain wrench most of the times.

Not sure which loader you have but I checked Michigan Iron Equip for a rod for the curl cylinder on a KL4020 loader and they list it at $134. Not too bad at all.

 

[12Bravo]

A big pipe wrench will pull the cap out, although it will leave some marks on it. Those things are usually fairly tight. I usually use a chain wrench most of the times.

Not sure which loader you have but I checked Michigan Iron Equip for a rod for the curl cylinder on a KL4020 loader and they list it at $134. Not too bad at all.

Michigan was where I was looking, wasn't sure if this site limits that kind of thing.

Also finally found a Backhoe joystick assembly rebuild kit. I've had to use my back hoe for awhile now with sloppy right joystick. Zipties actually holds the parts together. My dealer was zero help with this and basically said "Guess you won't push to hard on controls anymore". Zero help with replacing or repair parts.

Perrypower on Ebay has what I think I need, just need to contact them to make sure an then tractor will be fully functional and ready for another 1000 hours of service.
So far, 2016 tractor with 1400 hours, I'm pleased with this machine. I've rode it hard for sure!

 

[ptsg]

Michigan was where I was looking, wasn't sure if this site limits that kind of thing.

Also finally found a Backhoe joystick assembly rebuild kit. I've had to use my back hoe for awhile now with sloppy right joystick. Zipties actually holds the parts together. My dealer was zero help with this and basically said "Guess you won't push to hard on controls anymore". Zero help with replacing or repair parts.

Perrypower on Ebay has what I think I need, just need to contact them to make sure an then tractor will be fully functional and ready for another 1000 hours of service.
So far, 2016 tractor with 1400 hours, I'm pleased with this machine. I've rode it hard for sure!

Sorry to hear that about your dealer. That wasn't nice at all from him. Hopefully you can get it going again.

 

[12Bravo]

I can't seem to get this little gem out. I'm worried I'll damage the barrel, in the process.

Any suggestions?

The cap was kind of a pain, 4' breaking bar and pipe wrench did the trick.

 

[ptsg]

Use the pipe wrench again but only on the dark spot as it's not too bad if it damages it. It's probably just stuck with rust I would imagine.

Put the barrel on the tractor with the shaft to hold it in place if needed.

 

[12Bravo]

I can't seem to get this little gem out. I'm worried I'll damage the barrel, in the process.

Any suggestions?

View attachment 805386

I've spun this thing, it's tight. I've tapped it while spinning it with no luck.

I'm not seeing a locking ring in the breakdown schematic for this cylinder.

I have it hooked to the front end loader to hold in place. Still no luck getting it to slide out. Can't even get enough wiggle room to use a small pry to help it along.

Any suggestions, this think is kicking my butt.

 

[K5lwq]

A good slide hammer probably would do the job. It should just drive in and the cap holds it in place.