Chop Saw

[Tom_Veatch]

Does anyone have any comments/suggestions/recommendations/etc. about the use of a metal cutting blade in a Sliding Compound Miter Saw (SCMS) for cutting metal shapes (channels, angles, etc.)?

To this point, a hacksaw is the only metal cutting saw I've used. Now, I'm looking at a project that requires some cutting beyond what I'm anxious to tackle with a hacksaw.

I have a 10" Hitachi SCMS I use for woodworking and have some reservations about using it for metal work. I can take steps to avoid mixing hot metal particles and sparks with wood sawdust, but I don't want to damage the saw. I could buy a saw specifically for metal work, but don't want to spend the money if what I already have will do the job.

 

[goaliedad]

I would not subject a woodworking saw to metal- even with a metal cutting blade- the shavings will be the death of your saw. I would look at an inexpensive dedicated metal cutoff saw if you're not going to have much use for it. Maybe buy some blades for a friend and use his?

I have an old delta wood chop saw that I may consider doing this with- but not my good one!

 

[kossetx]

Are you talking about using a composite blade or one of the new metal , metal sawing blades? Does you saw have any plasic on it? Either way, I think you should by a cheap metal saw. That hatachi isn't cheap.

 

[RonMar]

Some have done this, but the fundamental thing usually missed is that the wood saw is typically direct drive where the metal chop saw is usually geared. This results in a large difference in blade RPM/cutting edge speed. The metal chopsaw basically grinds/melts it's way thru the metal so the proper cutting edge speed is important for efficiency. As others have and will mention, the metal dust and shaveings from hacking on steel will not be healthy for your saw, not to mention the damage the rough, dirty steel will cause to the base of the saw. Now that being said, I do cut aluminum with my wood scopsaw using a high tooth count carbide blade, but aluminum is about the metal equivelant of black walnut in hardness and machineability. There are also no sparks, and the aluminum comes off in large chips, just like wood from a chainsaw.

I think you will be more satisfied cutting steel with just about any metal chop saw you would buy over using your good wood mitre saw. I have one from sears I have been using about 3 years now, think it was about $150, but with the right wheel(wheel that came with it was too thick) it melts right thru anything up to 4" without really working too hard.

 

[RonR]

Tom,

Quite few yrs ago, I put an abrasive blade in a table saw to cut z brick. It was the death of the motor............

I have an inexpensive chop saw (got it at tractor supply about 10 yrs ago) and it works well. I suspect harbor freight has them even cheaper now.

Haven't seen one that is easy to adjust angles on, which would be nice.

I always use mine outside as they do toss the sparks. And I always have a few blade around as they wear out pretty fast.

Great tool though.

Ron

 

[milkman]

I have a 14" Hitachi chop saw, but since I got this FREE SHIPPING — Northern Industrial Tools Compact Reciprocating Saw Kit | Reciprocating Saws | Northern Tool + Equipment as a gift, I got some 24T Bosch metal blades and I use it more to cut metal now than I use the chop saw.

 

[Tom_Veatch]

Well, guys, you've successfully talked me out of ruining a good SCMS. One thing I hadn't thought of was Milkman's idea. I have a DeWalt Recip and may try a metal cutting blade in it. Wonder how precise/accurate a cut I can get with that. But, I suppose cutting fat and grinding to the mark can cure some cutting inaccuracy.

But, in case that doesn't work out, and since my experience level in hands on metal work is essential zilch what do y'all think of the merits of a circular type saw such as (not necessarily these specific brands):

Chop Saw

as compared to a horizontal/portable bandsaw such as:

Portable Bandsaw w/ Stand

 

[Ron25]

If you're using a hacksaw it can't be that much cutting. A metal bandsaw is great, but maybe you could use a 4 - 4.5" grinder with a cutting wheel.

Today I cut some 3/8x6" flat bar with one, about 5' worth. It took 5 wheels but since it wouldn't fit my bandsaw it did the job. Nice clean cut with a straight edge too. Get some ear plugs.

It just depends on your material.

 

[agh]

i just used my $49.00 2 hp 14 inch china-made cheap chop saw from harbour freight.(also bought the 9.95 2 yr warrenty w exchange) it cut some 1 and 1/4 in. square 11 gauge tubing to use on a trailer. worked fine for my infrequent metal projects. If it fails or quits I'll repost. agh

 

[Brad_Blazer]

I like a portable band saw. I have the Homier $50 version of the plastic frame Grizzly. The Grizzly looks like it has aluminum wheels where mine are plastic. I had to sand a crown on my wheels and shim the tensioner to get it to track good. Hopefully the Grizzly is set up to track better.
Otherwise it works good with a good bi-metal blade. I use mine freehand and can get reasonably good cuts. If I need a really square cut I mark it all the way around and follow the marks. A pipe wrap works great for marking round pipe. Control is very good, no sparks, etc.
Milwaukee and Porter-Cable porta-bands are MUCH better machines but of course cost several times as much. The ~$200 4x6 bandsaws are also popular. I love my grinders and sometimes use them for cutting but I hate the sparks and grit they sling.