Changing fluid-filled tires - how to drain the stuff out?

[CircleRat]

Howdy all - I just bought a '65 Ford 3000 and the rear tires appear to be filled with 'stuff'. A grainy wet substance oozed from the valve stem when I put a tire gauge on it, I assume this is calcium & water? Or is it a liquid soap mixed with something else?

The tires are worn and I want to put a newer set on the rear rims. How much of a hassle is it to change the tires... do I have to drain the stuff out first, and if so how is that done? Can I save it to put back in the new set of tires?

Appreciate any help! n

 

[arrow]

Yes it can be saved. you'll need a few things however such as an appropriate size container to hold the stuff while you swap out the tires. I used a cheap pump from Harbor Freight to both drain and fill them. You'll need a special valve stem adapter such as from Gemplers that allows the use of a regular hose as a drain and fill tubing. Drain them out first and if you do not want to spend a lot of money, come up with some way to demount the tires (I used a 2x6 acting like a ramp to drive my pick up onto as the 2x6 sat on the tire} Get a couple of 30" tire irons from Northern Supply to help mount and demount them. They were only 9 bucks a piece and actually help up. If it is calcium, you'll want new tubes to put back into the tires and while you're at it and if you do need tubes, Gemplers makes a neat stem fishing tool to pull the stem up through the rim. ( It's only a few bucks) Total out lay for all of this stuff may be $50 not counting the tubes. Sounds like a lot of stuff to do but it's not hard at all. I did all my remounting with rim on the tractor and if I did not have to break the bead, could have demounted them also on the tractor. Gemplers has a video showing most of the tire change process. BTW, if it is calcium, do yourself a favor and thoroughly prep the rims. After I sanded mine, I applied a substance called "Chassis Guard" It's nearly impervious to rusting. POR 15 is the same stuff. I then painted up the entire rim with first an epoxy primer coat and then the tractor color. Chassis Guard dries literally rock hard and if you have bumps or "bubbles" when coating, sand these down before putting the tube in. I also wrapped the rim where the tube sits with duct tape to make sure. As you can tell, I never wanted to see the inside of these rims again.

 

[deerseeker001]

I will have to keep this for reference.

Yes it can be saved. you'll need a few things however such as an appropriate size container to hold the stuff while you swap out the tires. I used a cheap pump from Harbor Freight to both drain and fill them. You'll need a special valve stem adapter such as from Gemplers that allows the use of a regular hose as a drain and fill tubing. Drain them out first and if you do not want to spend a lot of money, come up with some way to demount the tires (I used a 2x6 acting like a ramp to drive my pick up onto as the 2x6 sat on the tire} Get a couple of 30" tire irons from Northern Supply to help mount and demount them. They were only 9 bucks a piece and actually help up. If it is calcium, you'll want new tubes to put back into the tires and while you're at it and if you do need tubes, Gemplers makes a neat stem fishing tool to pull the stem up through the rim. ( It's only a few bucks) Total out lay for all of this stuff may be $50 not counting the tubes. Sounds like a lot of stuff to do but it's not hard at all. I did all my remounting with rim on the tractor and if I did not have to break the bead, could have demounted them also on the tractor. Gemplers has a video showing most of the tire change process. BTW, if it is calcium, do yourself a favor and thoroughly prep the rims. After I sanded mine, I applied a substance called "Chassis Guard" It's nearly impervious to rusting. POR 15 is the same stuff. I then painted up the entire rim with first an epoxy primer coat and then the tractor color. Chassis Guard dries literally rock hard and if you have bumps or "bubbles" when coating, sand these down before putting the tube in. I also wrapped the rim where the tube sits with duct tape to make sure. As you can tell, I never wanted to see the inside of these rims again.

 

[CircleRat]

I appreciate the detailed reply and the time it took to type it out. I'll look up the video and tools on Gemplers and Northern Tool and go from there. Sure beats paying the tractor shop to do it... thanks!

 

[boggen]

i had an old hose, that might of came from a A/C hose in a car/truck. i took a dremel with a grinding bit kinda of > "triangle shaped bit" and reemed out the inside of the hose just enough. so i could easily initially slide it over the valve. and then with a little wiggle slide it a little bit further up on the valve for a snug fit.

the adapter / converter that deerseeker notes from glemers would be so much easier and better but "shrugs"

i gave up on idea of using a small pipe clamp to get a snug fit around hose and valve. just not enough room. and when filling a tire up with liquid, you need to let air out, every so often as you put liquid into the tire. i am to cheap to go out and buy some small valves and a tee. so i can open/close valve to either pump fluid into a tire and/or let air out of the tire. during fililng. rather i just slide the hose on /off the valve stem. hence the dremel and triangle shaped grinding bit. it is a bit messy this way but o'well. it's not like i do this day in and day out. just when ever i need to fix a leaking tire *arghs*

============
with above said. it would really make my own life easier if i dumped some cash into a better setup....

getting the adapter/convter to screw directly onto the tire/tube valve stem, and spending some cash for valves. and quick couplers for pump so i could turn pump around, to easily either pump fluid into tire or out of the tire. """ MORE SO""" pumping the fluid out of a tire. and not having to deal with a tube partially filled with fluid and trying to pull tube plus the weight of fluid out between tire and rim, and less mess would make things so much easier.

=============
and with above said... cheap way, 5 gallon bucket, a hose. and let gravity errr siphon due the work for you... kinda like the old siphoning gas out of a vehicle. granted most of the stuff tires are filled with are more likely either deadly or very poisonous if consumed / swallowed.

 

[Oliver1655]

Most farm supply stores will have a fluid fill adapter made by Milton in the tire repair/sir tool section. They are between $10-15.

To empty, as mentioned, determine the size of container you will need to hold the fluid. The following link will help: Ballast Volume and Weight
- Screw a simple ball valve to the fluid fill adapter the a short length of garden hose. Securing the other end of the hose to the storage container.
- Leave the tire on the tractor. Fluid filled tires are very heavy & hard to handle if dismounted.
- Jack the axle up on the side with the tire you are working with. (The weight of the fluid will cause the tire to sag & will hopefully lower the fluid level to below the top of the rim.)
- With the valve stem pointed up, remove the core & screw on the fluid fill adapter. Hopefully no fluid will escape but to be safe, chemical gloves, goggles, & a closed mouth are smart choices.
- Rotate the tire to where the valve stem is pointed down. Allow the fluid to drain out then rotate the valve stem upwards part way and add air. This will prevent pockets of fluid from being trapped in collapsed portions of the inner tube. Then after reattaching the fluid adapter, rotate the valve stem back downwards & lower the tire to where it is flat on the ground. This will allow the maximum amount of fluid to emptied with gravity.

At this point you can attach a pump to vacuum the remaining fluid or simply break the outside bead lose & dismount the outer side of the tire. You should not have to mess with the inside bead of the tire unless you are replacing the tire.

- Remove the inner tube: Remember the remaining fluid in the tube. Either have a drain pan to catch the fluid coming out of the valve stem as you pull on the tube or re-install the valve core first.
- If repairing the tire, do any repair needed & make sure the inside of the tire is dry.
- Install new tube. You may use the old tube provided it was not damaged & does not show wear around the stem area. DO NOT attempt to use a patched tube with a fluid filled tire. It will not last!
- Remount outer side of the tire.
- Inflate the inner tube to seat the tire.

If using calcium water, remember it is a salt & will damage most pumps unless so rated.

 

[INVS2298]

I have had chloride filled tires on my Field Boss for about 20 yrs, 2 sets, and am really tired of them. My tire guy suggests epoxy filling new tires when the time is right. I use a lot of epoxy in my business and know how costly it can be. However, the guy says this will end all flats, leaks and rust problems. Does any one have experience with the idea? I know it is costly, is it worth it?
Take it easy, B

 

[ctgoodman]

I'd be interested in hearing what you come up with. I'm facing some issues on a relatively new New Holland TN70. I inherited the tractor form the old man. I'm not sure what's in the tires but all four are loaded. I am suspecting calcium chloride is what they are filled with. I've just had a major failure on a front tire valve stem where it meets the rim. It says it's tubeless but I can't be 100% sure of that. I'm looking to drain them and break all of them off the rims just to see what I'm dealing with. I'm afraid they are all tubeless and are filled with calcium chloride so I want to check the insides and halt any further corrosion before it ruins a rim. Then I'm trying to figure out what to fill them back with that a little more environmentally friendly and doesn't attack the steel. I hear good thing about the beet juice though it's pricey. This is the first I've heard of an epoxy.

 

[dfkrug]

This is the first I've heard of an epoxy.

First for me, too.

Maybe the tire guy meant polyurethane, B? That is what is sometimes done for skidsteer tires,
and it is costly, but effective. PU foam has some give to it; epoxy does not.

I once filled my tires on my 1st Kubota, using water with an anti-rust additive. Of course, you
can not use that in snow country. You might try beet juice, or something else your local
tractor dealer might recommend.

BTW, removing the fluid completely from my tires required breaking the bead to get the last
several gallons out. Ugh.

 

[k0ua]

jack up tractor on the affected side just slightly off of the ground. Open valve stem and let it drain. then place it at 6 o'clock. At some point it will stop and you still have several gallons left depending on the size of the tire.

buy some aquarium or fuel line tubing that will just fit thru the valve stem opening with the valve stem removed, and placed at 6 o'clock. push tubing in until you feel it touch the inside bottom of the tire. Slide down a plastic valve cap that you have drilled a hole in the top of the cap that just will clear the tubing as you slide it down onto and screw onto the outside of valve stem. Make an adaptor to make the outside end of the tubing larger so that you may shoot pressurized air into the tubing with and air blowgun. The air will bubble up through the liquid and start to pressurize the tire.

Pressurize the tire to say 10 lbs or so. Remove the air pressure and the fluid will come shooting out your tubing from the air pressure now pressing down on the remaining liquid in the tire. Re-pressurize as necessary when the liquid stream stops or drips weakly from tire. This will probably get 99 percent of it.