Changing blades on flail mower to suit conditions?

[Ram4x4]

Another couple months until I can get my Mahindra 5035 HST. Had already picked a rotary cutter and all...and then I read the massive thread on flail mowers and I think that's the direction I'm heading.

Curious though, since there are so many types of blades depending on the type of cut you want, is it OK to change the blade type to suit the job?

For example, could I put on a set of of the heavier hammer types to do the initial whacking of the weeds and brush and then switch over to the slicer or cup types for a nicer cut the next time around?

It seems the heavier the blade type the less there are of them on the mower. Is this due to their size and weight? Are the mowers made specific to their task? In other words if I buy a medium to heavy duty model, will there only be enough connection points for the heavier, rougher cutting blades and not enough connections for the smaller, cleaner cutters to work right, or do you simply not use some of the connection points when using the bigger, heavier blades?


I don't have a lot of saplings or thicker, woodier type stuff to cut, it's primarily open field with thick, dense weeds. I do want to keep it mowed down to let the grass spread and look nice.

 

[SuperCobra]

I can't speak for your specific brand but on my but I just replaced all of the blades on my Mott and it wasn't a cheap or easy task. All my previous hardware (blades, pins, and cotter pins) was trashed. IIRC it cost a couple hundred dollars and took a couple of hours to bend and pull all of the cotter pins, drive out the rusty pins, and put the new ones on. I think there were 96 stations IIRC. I never want to see another cotter pin.

 

[greg_g]

In other words if I buy a medium to heavy duty model, will there only be enough connection points for the heavier, rougher cutting blades and not enough connections for the smaller, cleaner cutters to work right...

Generally yes. My 74" Ford 917H for example, was available in two versions; fine and coarse. My coarse cut has a total of 33 attachment points. That means no more than 33 hammers, 33 one piece knives (T-type), 33 or 66 thatching blades (1 or 2 per hanger), or 66 HD knives (2 per hanger). The fine cut version on the other hand, has 99 attachment points, but can only use fine cut blades; 198 of them (2 per hanger). It is important to note also, that you must also buy the correct hanger for the duty cycle; the 917 rough cut does not share the same hanger with the 917 fine cut for example. Nor do they share the same hanger link (the part that attaches to the carrier).

When you get down to the specific manufacturer/model/sub-model and the various widths, it gets even more complicated. But I can only speak for my own machine. Hopefully that's enough to give you the general idea anyway.

Now I'll get to the part where I have to speculate. I think it's fair to say the rough cut hanger is the medium/heavy duty hanger. So I'll go out on a limb and say it attaches to a medium/heavy duty carrier (the part that spins all the hammers/knives). Carrying on with that thought, the fine cut hanger may then attach to a light duty carrier. If true, I'd be a bit hesitant to mount a smaller number of medium/heavy duty hangers on a light duty carrier. Besides, swapping all those individual pieces would be a rather time consuming job. The advantage on the other hand, is that doing so provides an excellent opportunity to sharpen all the cutting edges before re-installation.

//greg//

 

[gwdixon]

I can't speak for your specific brand but on my but I just replaced all of the blades on my Mott and it wasn't a cheap or easy task. All my previous hardware (blades, pins, and cotter pins) was trashed. IIRC it cost a couple hundred dollars and took a couple of hours to bend and pull all of the cotter pins, drive out the rusty pins, and put the new ones on. I think there were 96 stations IIRC. I never want to see another cotter pin.

:laughing::laughing::laughing: Laughing with you, not at you. I did the same with my 6' Alamo/Mott with finish blades. What a royal pain in the rear - and talk about time consuming.

My flail had well over a hundred stations. Can't remember exactly. Sort of deleted that experience from my memory.

My biggest gripe was getting the old cotter pins out. Tried bolt cutters, heavy duty snips, and finally settled on an air-operated cut off tool (grinder). Bending them straight was given up on after a couple. Those things are stiff and the pin turning as they were tried to be straightened was just too much.

 

[J_J]

Rough cut flail mowers have fewer hangers for the blades, and therefore, you can not install small finish cut blades. There will be gaps in the cutting.

If you had a spare, and complete rotor assembly you might be able to switch the rotors with different blades.

I could probably put rough cut blades or hammers on mine, by using every two or every third hanger, as long as they don't hit the frame..

 

[Ram4x4]

I see, thanks that's kinda what I was looking for. had this dandy idea to buy a "finish" cut flail and then a set of heavier blades I could swap out for heavier thrashing.

Understood it is time consuming, but a couple hundred dollars extra to get a "dual purpose" flail would be worth the time to switch out the blades.

My fear is going with something like the Caroni TM1900 only to find it isn't "heavy duty enough".

I've always been one to "over do it" in terms of equipment because to me it's always better to have a little more than you need than not enough.

I do like the way the flail works and I like how it distributes the cuttings, but overall I may have to rethink this and just go with the rotary.

 

[J_J]

Landpride

http://www.landpride.com/products/81/fm41-series-flail-mowers

Fine cutting knives (31 Series) ----- Heavy enough to cut 1” material, yet fine enough to groom a yard

Forged hammer knives (41 Series) ----- Forged hammers are just right for chopping up prunings up to 2” thick, but will also groom grass in a very acceptable manner.

 

[greg_g]

Caroni TM1900 only to find it isn't "heavy duty enough".

Yeah, it's a gamble if you don't do your homework. If you're considering a Caroni from someplace like AgriSupply, call first. They'll be able to tell you how many of which knives/hammers will work safely on which models they sell.

FWIW, Caroni flails sold in America are not likely to be heavy duty in the first place. I'd say medium duty at best. I equate heavy duty with something the highway department would use. So if you're wanting "heavy" in the description of what you're shopping for, Caroni might not be the best choice.

//greg//

 

[jgrreed]

Hi,

My Caroni has served me well. I've not been super hard on it, but it's mowed lots of 1" saplings, and mulched up many 4" fallen (dried) branches. It's dinged a few rocks. It still does a nice job on the pastures after that.

I guess if you're going to bounce it around really hard, maybe a heavy duty mott or woods might be better, but it'll also be 3x the price!!

-J.

 

[leonz]

Another couple months until I can get my Mahindra 5035 HST. Had already picked a rotary cutter and all...and then I read the massive thread on flail mowers and I think that's the direction I'm heading.

Curious though, since there are so many types of blades depending on the type of cut you want, is it OK to change the blade type to suit the job?

For example, could I put on a set of of the heavier hammer types to do the initial whacking of the weeds and brush and then switch over to the slicer or cup types for a nicer cut the next time around?

It seems the heavier the blade type the less there are of them on the mower. Is this due to their size and weight? Are the mowers made specific to their task? In other words if I buy a medium to heavy duty model, will there only be enough connection points for the heavier, rougher cutting blades and not enough connections for the smaller, cleaner cutters to work right, or do you simply not use some of the connection points when using the bigger, heavier blades?


I don't have a lot of saplings or thicker, woodier type stuff to cut, it's primarily open field with thick, dense weeds. I do want to keep it mowed down to let the grass spread and look nice.

I would chat with Island Tractor and look at his flailmower pictures as he has two row rotor on his flailmower and it leaves a nice finish in heavy brush.

if you want a nice finish with a rough cut flail you have to over lap or mow in the opposite direction to slice up the clippings even more.

The B type rotor with the two rows of knives will work well for you as long as you maintain the proper P.T.O. engine speed and a slow enough ground speed to mulch it properly the first time as all you going to do otherwise is burn out belts and it will look like a bad haircut after a dry lightning storm YUCK!!