Chains for blade replacement on a Slasher/Bush Hog

[DAD1220]

Imagine Northern Arkansas, in a forty acre mountain pass valley, sound of a beautiful clear creek running through the center, 100-150' rise on each side...

Now, imagine trying to cut or mow grass with football and larger rocks hiding in the grass!

I know, remove the rocks. And it is the end goal to remove the offenders or cover them. However they would be much easier to remove if I could first see them.

Anyone have any experience with replacing Bush Hog blades with chain? Form my reading it seems fairly the norm outside the U.S. to use chains as blades on rocky uneven ground.

Australian ads for such claim less flying debris, a mulching effect and easier on the mower deck when the chains slip around an immovable object.


I've brush cut old fields for quit a while, know about stump jumpers, but just run into this idea.

What'd ya think? Done it? How's it hold up? Is there a U.S. vendor or should I be buying bulk high grade chain to make my own?

Thanks...

 

[Rustyiron]

I think that I've seen them used on some excavator mounted mowers. Talk about a giant weed eater! I think that if you weld, for just a few bucks you could buy some (big) chain, cut most of the blade off leaving about 3" at the bolt (@ the tee bar where the blade attaches) and just weld the chain to the blade stub, keeping in mind that they should be close in weight for balance. For that matter, if you knew a place that could swage ends on a 1/2"-5/8" cable....... that might have a better "cutting" action over a chain just beating it to death.

 

[2458n]

If they work in other places why not make some up and give it a try. Make sure you are in a remote location and have some sort of catch screen on your ROPS. I think you will be able to tell pretty quickly if the idea has potential. I have not seen anything like this before,but I am not done looking.

 

[DT86]

I read in Farm Show Magazine about a man doing this probably 15 years ago. It's been filed away in the back of my mind ever since.

 

[DAD1220]

I thought about the 3/8" - 1/2" cable, because I thought it would be easier to attach than chain.

As you said, think giant weed eater.

It might not cut a 2" trunk, but it would bend against a rock.

 

[MBTRAC]

I've used chains on our slashers (i.e = US term "Bush Hogs") in the past & yes they can be very effective in clearing "rough & rocky" ground, they aint going to give a lawn finish but they will tame otherwise out of control vegetation & depnding on your hp remove c.1-2" scrub usually roots & all - chains also work extremely well on hyd powered slashers.
IMO:-
- Use sturdy chain such something like cut down 4WD drag chains rated @ 3T+, & not high tensile chain which can shatter
- The chain needs to be equal lengths & weight to balance & not torsionally load the gearbox/splindle
- Use chain length roughly 3/4 or less of the blade length, the chains should approximate the weight of each removed blade & the plate
- You need a HD Gearbox on the slasher, as a light weight gearbox is susceptible to damage
- Run the tractor at slow or in really heavy going creeper speeds as you must give the chains time to cut (chains are not as forgiving as blades & they can easit overload the slasher gearbox/clutch if you run too fast)
- PTO speed should be 540rpm, or higher (provided your slasher gearbox is rated for it) if your tractor has a 3 speed or variable PTO c.750rpm usually works best in most conditions (Caution - 1000rpm is too high !!!!)
- tractor travel speed & PTO speed is critical as you are aiming maintain an even & relatively high chain rotation/tip speed, so plan your work to eliminate idling down & PTO disengagement.
- The slip clutch should be set reasonable soft to allow max slippage in the unlikely event the chains "snag"
- Fit guards front & rear (preferably chain guards) because the danger is not so much the debris but rather if a chain link lets go (more likely than with a blade) it can kill
Good luck:thumbsup:

PS- Another version I've seen uses s/h chainsaw chains, in theory should work very very well & eliminate all the compromises of the loose chins links -- in practice ? (I've never used one)

 

[IkeRoberts]

The big New Holland tractors we have at Pocono Raceway have chains instead of blades. I don't know any more about them but They came that way from New Holland.

 

[mick m]

i have an old egg beater sasher on 3pl that has chains ,,,,think post hole borer with chains instead of an auger, works gr8 on rough uneaven country like banks of dams etc and on chunky material . dosent like stringy grass as it will wrap around the chain ends and form a ball , this unit dosent have much of a guard around it as was way before any OHs came about so you have guards mounted on the tractor and dont even think about going outside of them as stones and rocks tend to fly in all directions. it cuts around 8 foot with 4 chains run on a 75 hp tractor

 

[DAD1220]

I see an advantage to the cable instead of chain now, as the cable would not hold grass and debris.

Thanks for the replies guys...I'll report back about July how it goes. I'll have a run by then!

 

[Rustyiron]

I read in Farm Show Magazine about a man doing this probably 15 years ago. It's been filed away in the back of my mind ever since.

Oh no! another Farm Show reader.:thumbsup: I don't know about you, but when it hit's my mailbox, I'm good for nuthin for about an hour or better:laughing: