chains? 2 link or 4 link, front or rear, steep paved driveway with Ford 2120 to sand

[srshaw3]

I just put a Herd 3 point sander on the reader for my Ford New Holland 2120 (model year 2000).
My paved driveway is *very* steep and winding, with the home (log cabin) at the high end.
I plowed the nominal snow off with my truck, which went down and up without issue.
I want to sand to provide traction for the car(s), and my wife (of faint heart ).
Going down forward and sanding behind me, leaves me to pause, as the tractor slides to the side of the driveway when I brake.
Going down backwards, I am not terribly comfortable, as I understand my options are limited if things go awry (I can't just try to coast down and save it).

I knew I was likely to consider chains, but the cost is a factor. I can get 2 link chains front and rear for $800ish or 4 link chains for $600ish. In either case I get the tensioners and tool to work with them.
If I go for the best (the 2 link chains), is my confidence going to zoom going down forward while sanding behind me?
Or regardless of what I do, am I going to find my confidence is going to be best if I start at the bottom and back up sanding behind me (in the direction I am going) on my way up.

I have plowed for @30 years but always with truck/jeeps. The tractor experience is new to me, but I am embracing it, as I have many uses for the tractor.

Thanks in advance!

 

[ovrszd]

Unfortunately chains have minimal traction on pavement. But if you chain all four tires you'll gain quite a bit. But you are also going to be very hard on your pavement.

If buying chains I always go for 2 link. With 4 link there are too many times when the crossbars aren't doing much. Closer spacing gets more on the ground at once.

Let's see if other paved driveway guys chime in with a miracle solution. My gravel driveway is pretty much flat so I have no experience in what you are trying to do.

 

[k0ua]

The Chains will solve your entire problem. Either the 2 or the 4 link will work, but the 2 link will be better. As said more metal on the ground. You wont slip around much with them on. If you get some good chains, The tractor will seem like a new machine. I don't have any now to fit mine, but when I had a small light tractor the B7500. it was about worthless on the packed snow with R4 tires without the chains. Got some 4 link chains and it sure made a difference. I chained up all four wheels. I still have the chains in a bucket, they aren't doing me any good now, as they are not even close to fitting what I have now. Chain it and let'r rip.
Oh, yeah if you run the chains on pavement not covered by packed snow, it will leave little "check marks" on the pavement... downside.

James K0UA

 

[Wolfy]

I always have trouble keeping 2 links tight. No trouble with 4 links. I think Duo grips on the rear and 4 link ladders on the front would be the solution.

 

[moeh1]

I'm on steep gravel with turfs, 2 link is a much nicer ride. I think the 2 link would do less scratching on your blacktop. I assume you are looking at places like tirechains.com to make sure you are getting a good product and price?

 

[kco]

I have 2 link ladders on the front of my DK35 R4's and don't have a problem keeping them tight by using 4 bungees. The 2 link ladders are made from an old set of what used to be 4 link truck chains. They fit but did not work on the rears. I was able to shorten and double-up the cross links for the fronts. They are smoother and more effective than 4-link ladders would be.

I have modified DUO's on the rear. I think 2-link ladders might work on the rear but 4-link may not be very good since some cross chains will sit down in the tread.

 

[srshaw3]

Thanks for the responses.
Yes I am looking at TireChain.com, the chain sizes I need are 14.9 x 26 & 9.5 x 16 (if those are the sizes of the unused chains, let me know!).
I am leaning towards the 2 link ladders front and rear (better to spend more than I want and have the best solution).
I was told the duogrip would be hard on the pavement.
I am planning on leaving them on for the winter, as I presume they are a pain to put on and take off, if nothing else it will probably take an hour (and I hate to waste time, nobody ever gives me more time....).

Thanks for all the responses!

 

[PILOON]

I had 4 link and modified them to 2 link on the same tractor so I can compare the results.
With 4 link I would slip and skid as well as my pavement shows scars.
On ice, 2 link sort of skip, grab, slip grab and that is when scarring happens.
Since I converted over to 2 link I have never scared the drive.
The ride is practically as smooth as with no chains.
More than once with the 4's I dug down seriously in hard packed snow and needed to get out a shovel to make a ramp. Since I went 2 link I could as well leave the shovel at home.

Oh, I only chain the rears and when needed brakes are effective as there is always chain in contact with the road bed. 2 link naturally have that larger spacing which is like a 6" gap between links. For steering assist you can always use differential braking, but I rarely need to do so.

 

[k0ua]

Did you see the old revived thread about the easy way to put on the chains.? Looks pretty easy with that method..


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/94114-putting-chains.html

James K0UA

 

[ovrszd]

I can't lift my Grader chains onto the 17.5x25 tire. Each chain weighs 175lb. I use the machine to lift the tire off the ground. I stretch the chain out behind the tire, grab the sidebars at the end, lift the end of the chain up onto the tire and get the crossbar embedded between the tire lugs, then gently roll the tire with the engine, pulling the chain up onto the tire until both ends are equally hanging below the tire, then latch at the bottom so all the slack is down there and I can get them latched tightly.

With my tractor I jack up a tire and do the same thing.