Anonymous Poster
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What is the best way to sharpen chains. I have never done this and would like to learn how
chain saw chains
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theboman
Veteran Member
Go to Lowes (or where you get goodies) and Oregon makes these new fangled chain sharpeners that my brother convinenced me how wonderful they are. I even got one for the same chainsaw we share. It takes a bit to figure out how to mount it on the bar but afterwards the chain is SHARP! The price is around $25 for the guide and a set of files.
Bo McCarty
Bluegrass, Pick It Up!
Bo McCarty
Bluegrass, Pick It Up!
thumperjb
Member
I really hate to admit to total ignorance... however I have been buying a new chain everytime it gets dull so what the heck. Does this sharpner mount on the saw only for use while it is being sharpened? It's not a permanent mount right? I ask because you say it's tricky to mount. I tried taking the saw to a lawn mower shop to have the blade sharpened but the nearest one to me is over an hours drive and the one time I took it there it would hardly start when I got it back. I only use my saw about twice each year so it doesn't get dull often.
Bird
Rest in Peace
Instead of taking the saw to the shop, I have two chains (my brother has 3 for his saw), and we just change the chain, then take the chain to a "professional" to have it sharpened. Of course, I once found one "professional" who didn't know how to use his equipment and the chain was duller when I got it back than when I took it to him./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif
Jag
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HG, run a search on chain saws, there was long decussion on this just a little while ago. Chain saw sharpening was pretty well covered.
beenthere
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If you are mechanically inclined, chain saw sharpener jigs that fasten to the blade when sharpening are good and will sharpen the chain saw teeth evenly, and at the correct angles (if initially set up correctly). After using the sharpening jig, and learning what it is doing to sharpen the teeth, you will likely quit using it and begin sharpening the chain by hand with just a sharp file. By hand without the jig is much faster, and therefore will get done more often (like after each fill of fuel).
If not mechanically inclined (most people know if they are or are not), take the chain to someone who knows what they are doing. Some do not, and you will end up with a chain that will not cut wood. You may have to search for the ones who give you a sharp chain back that will cut, but it is worth it. Check with neighbors who have chain saws, and you will likely find one that knows where to take them or will sharpen it for you. However, don't wait to take it to someone after it is completely dull, as then it is a lot of work to get it sharp again. Be nice, and take it to them after each fill of fuel. Everyone will be much happier, and you will get a lot of wood cut that way.
If not mechanically inclined (most people know if they are or are not), take the chain to someone who knows what they are doing. Some do not, and you will end up with a chain that will not cut wood. You may have to search for the ones who give you a sharp chain back that will cut, but it is worth it. Check with neighbors who have chain saws, and you will likely find one that knows where to take them or will sharpen it for you. However, don't wait to take it to someone after it is completely dull, as then it is a lot of work to get it sharp again. Be nice, and take it to them after each fill of fuel. Everyone will be much happier, and you will get a lot of wood cut that way.
theboman
Veteran Member
You can also use a file for chain saws without the jig and do a decent job. Just follow the way they are already filed and I think you file AWAY from the bar, I'm too lasy too look.
Bo McCarty
Bluegrass, Pick It Up!
Bo McCarty
Bluegrass, Pick It Up!
jhburke
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I used to do timber work and dad had a saw shop. We always sharpened our chains and others. Now I use a saw about 2 or 3 times a year. I bought a 12 volt chain grinder and use it until the drags get to long and I just take it to a pro and let him sharpen it and he files down the drags. I usally have 2 or 3 chains but with the grinder when the chain gets a little dull simply touch up and away we go again. JIM
fractal
Gold Member
Me too. Although, with my local shop charging 5 bucks to sharpen the saw, and my taking it in every 9 month or so, it will take a LONG time to pay for a 20-30 dollar jig..
Youare
Platinum Member
Jag has mentioned this already that this subject was covered a short time ago in great detail. Just a quick reply, I have been sharpening my own and some other peoples chains for almost 30 years. When I first started it was one of the most frustrating experiences. There are several things you have to pay attention to, first the angles have to be even on both sides of the chain or your saw will not cut straight. Tooth length must be close from one side of the chain to the other. The rakers must be properly adjusted to give the chain the proper depth control.
All that said I like the Oregon and Sthil makes one also file holed guides. The cost about $8 - $10 with a file. This guide holds the file and rides on the top of the tooth and raker which control the file depth. Make sure your chain is tensioned on the bar of the saw first, this will keep it from rocking as you sharpen it. After a couple of strokes look at the front of the tooth from point to the opposite edge and see if there is a nice sharp edge all the way across the top to the tooth. Next check the cutting edge on the side of the tooth, it should have a nice sharp edge.
The point where the side meets the top is the most important point, adjust the file angle to get this point sharp. Always try to take the same amount off each tooth on both sides. Look at a new chain and try to reproduce the same edges. Given time and practice most people can touch up a chain, for really bad rock or nail cutting cases take the chain to the shop. You will get more life out of a chain that you sharpen yourself than if you take it to the shop all the time.
Randy
All that said I like the Oregon and Sthil makes one also file holed guides. The cost about $8 - $10 with a file. This guide holds the file and rides on the top of the tooth and raker which control the file depth. Make sure your chain is tensioned on the bar of the saw first, this will keep it from rocking as you sharpen it. After a couple of strokes look at the front of the tooth from point to the opposite edge and see if there is a nice sharp edge all the way across the top to the tooth. Next check the cutting edge on the side of the tooth, it should have a nice sharp edge.
The point where the side meets the top is the most important point, adjust the file angle to get this point sharp. Always try to take the same amount off each tooth on both sides. Look at a new chain and try to reproduce the same edges. Given time and practice most people can touch up a chain, for really bad rock or nail cutting cases take the chain to the shop. You will get more life out of a chain that you sharpen yourself than if you take it to the shop all the time.
Randy