Traction CG2300 Rear Blade and Traction Problems

JDKu · Aug 13, 2011

I'm having traction problems. I'm trying to contour a drainage ditch with a rear blade. The grass/dirt is slimy and the tractor is having troubles carrying its own weight through the minor undulations - thus, it is pretty hopeless when trying to pull the blade.

I have turf tires. How much better traction are the ag tires? Can I run chains on the turf tires? Front and back?

Or perhaps this tractor is too light to be ripping up grass? The blade isn't having any problems cutting through the grass, but It will quickly bite off more than the tractor can pull. Perhaps I need to wait for things to dry up - but I'm not certain this area will dry. Also thinking that maybe if I roto-tilled it first, then I could move the lose dirt - but I'm going to have traction issues in lose dirt too......

Thank you

ray66v · Aug 13, 2011

Turf tires are not meant for use in soft ground. They will load up and quickly lose traction.

Yes, chains on the tires will help.

I personally would not chain the fronts, but people do.

Yes, this tractor is not the ideal machine for this job, but with the right operator, it is probably capable of this job, given the right conditions.

You did not mention how wide the rear blade you have is?

Fordman1981 · Aug 13, 2011

If your blade is sized right for your tractor you should not be having this kind of problem. I have r4 tires on my TC33D and yes it does not get as good of traction as R1 or ag tires but I can still move allot of dirt and fast you just need to get to know your machine and how much earth to move at one time. On smaller tractors such as yours you might have to bite once it spins lift a little then let it bite again once you get the first tough layer off it should go much better. Hopefully this helps.:thumbsup: One other thing I will say is I use a box blade allot more than a scrape blade one reason being is i can drop the rippers and break hard ground and move more dirt.

rjmack · Aug 13, 2011

i had ag tires put on mine before i took delivery.

haven't regretted it for a second... then again, i don't mow the lawn with it.

Don87 · Aug 13, 2011

Are your tires loaded? Can't do a lot of ground work with a GC series without weight.

I have loaded turf tires(rimguard, more weight per gallon) on mine, but no backblade to experiment with. I can do some serious digging with the single bottom plow, and the one row cultivator though.

JDKu · Aug 14, 2011

The blade is 60". No fluid in the tires. I'm reluctant to add fluid, because I need flotation for mowing some areas. Then again, it's usually the front wheels that cut through the turf when mowing, and it would be the back wheels that are getting most of the fluid where there is lots of flotation. How much weight can they add?

ray66v · Aug 14, 2011

There is a problem, 48" is an appropriate length blade for a GC.

That is not to say an operator can't use a 60" blade under some conditions, but it is too big to pull in conditions where traction is a problem.

Loading your tires won't help if your problem is operating in soft ground, (that still is not clear). I have the weight of my backhoe on my turf tires, (a lot more than you can get loading your tires), and it doesn't help in mud. Chains, or more aggressive tires, are your only good option there.

Don87 · Aug 14, 2011

JDKu said:
The blade is 60". No fluid in the tires. I'm reluctant to add fluid, because I need flotation for mowing some areas. Then again, it's usually the front wheels that cut through the turf when mowing, and it would be the back wheels that are getting most of the fluid where there is lots of flotation. How much weight can they add?

Depends on what you use for ballast. The rear tires hold roughly 11 gallons of fluid each.

Antifreeze and such weighs roughly 8lbs. per gallon, Rimguard weighs close to 11lbs. per gallon and is non-corrosive(except to the glue that holds the tire valves together). Metal valve stems need to be installed when using Rimguard.

JDKu · Aug 15, 2011

On an angle, the 60" blade is no wider than a 48" box blade - probably narrower. But I will confess, I don't know how to use one! I had it on max angle, and I set it so only one corner is cutting in. So it probably was only about a 2 foot blade when I was using it

I figured that was the best way to rip open the earth and get an angle started.

Think I may try chains on the rear tires. Do I have to find MF chains, or are there readily available chains for these tires?

arsenix2001 · Aug 15, 2011

JDKu said:
On an angle, the 60" blade is no wider than a 48" box blade - probably narrower. But I will confess, I don't know how to use one! I had it on max angle, and I set it so only one corner is cutting in. So it probably was only about a 2 foot blade when I was using it I figured that was the best way to rip open the earth and get an angle started.

Think I may try chains on the rear tires. Do I have to find MF chains, or are there readily available chains for these tires?

Ballast wont do squat for your issue anyway. It will just sink your slimey turfs faster. Get yourself a set of chains from tirechains.com You can look up whats availible for your size tire. A 2 link ladder chain would work well for you, or a 4 link if you want to save some $$. I just ordered a set of 4 link ladder chains for my gigantic turf and im pretty happy with them.