RobA
Platinum Member
I've been looking at possibilities for horse fencing. I won't be putting it up for at least 2 years but since I'm obsessive and **** I'm looking into it now. Has anyone used Centaur fencing? If so, are you happy with it?
Centaur Horse Fencing
- Thread starter RobA
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bearhawk
Platinum Member
We just put a riding ring up with RAMM Fencing, same idea. I liked the way that you don't have to be perfect with the location of the posts, like you would have to with boards. But a 660 foot roll is HEAVY and a real challenge to muscle around.
If I had to do any more I would build something to allow the tractor to help unroll the spool.
Jim
If I had to do any more I would build something to allow the tractor to help unroll the spool.
Jim
We have a lot of something similar and after several years, it still looks good. There are only two problems I have with it:
1. It isn't great for runs that have significant dips or rises in the terrain. You may have to stop/start with the 'come-alongs' more often or you'll get funny bows in the run. Imagine trying to get a ribbon to stay straight as you bend it along its thin edge. Kinda hard to explain...
2. Splicing with the 'chinese finger puzzles' is hit-or-miss and you only get one chance. The splices aren't cheap either!
Other than that, (and the $%^%^ heavy rolls) it is working out really well. Very easy to see and easy on the horses.
-Brian
1. It isn't great for runs that have significant dips or rises in the terrain. You may have to stop/start with the 'come-alongs' more often or you'll get funny bows in the run. Imagine trying to get a ribbon to stay straight as you bend it along its thin edge. Kinda hard to explain...
2. Splicing with the 'chinese finger puzzles' is hit-or-miss and you only get one chance. The splices aren't cheap either!
Other than that, (and the $%^%^ heavy rolls) it is working out really well. Very easy to see and easy on the horses.
-Brian
rosietheriviter
Member
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2007
- Messages
- 32
RobA said:
QRTRHRS
Elite Member
I used Centaur around my outdoor arena as well as a couple of paddocks for my two stallions. Nearing nine years old, the webbing looks pretty good but the clips that nail to the posts have dulled out.
Overall, it needs little maintenance and I am quite happy with it. I do have two issues to note though.
Paddocks being prone to overgrazing, I had to add a strip of electric webbing to keep the horses from sticking their head through the webs in order to get at the grass on the other side.
I understand that Centaur is available now that can be charged.
My posts are pounded with "H" braces for the corners and at the gate openings. I used no concrete to anchor the posts.
When you use Centaur, you wrap the web about 3/4's around the end posts. The tension tends to twist the post and pop the horizontal brace out of place.
Overall, it needs little maintenance and I am quite happy with it. I do have two issues to note though.
Paddocks being prone to overgrazing, I had to add a strip of electric webbing to keep the horses from sticking their head through the webs in order to get at the grass on the other side.
I understand that Centaur is available now that can be charged.
My posts are pounded with "H" braces for the corners and at the gate openings. I used no concrete to anchor the posts.
When you use Centaur, you wrap the web about 3/4's around the end posts. The tension tends to twist the post and pop the horizontal brace out of place.
Gooseneck
Member
We put up several miles of 3 rail Centaur in the past two years.
Of course, the biggest part of the job is installing the posts. You didn't mention how much fencing you will be putting up, but if it's a fairly large amount I highly recommend a post driver. This one piece of equipment will save you tons of work.
Centaur has the installation manual on their web site.
We rounded all of the corners which added a bit of work (quite the mathematical endeavor to set up the radius and post spacing), but felt it would prevent the possibility of a horse getting pinned in a corner. We installed H braces and diagonals in concrete at the ends and at all gates.
We used the spool tensioners (same color as rail) for the end of each run of the 660 foot roll. There are double barrel or single barrel depending on the need. Each end of the fence, gate or whatever, is wrapped 3/4 around the post and stapled, or is terminated with a single barrel tensioner.
I'll skip the details about measuring up on each post, running string, smoothing out the dips and bumps in the string and then installing the brackets...but this is where you should take your time. I believe the new instructions recommend exterior wood screws for the brackets and I very much agree.
We used a spinning jenny in the bed of the truck. One person drives next to the fence posts unrolling the rail, while the other puts it into the bracket and closes it in. Then it's just a few hours of finishing fastening the brackets, installing the tensioners, stapling the end and you're done.
Sorry if this has been a bit wordy. We have been happy with the results and there is very little maintenance. A tree fell across the top rail in a storm and after removing the tree and retensioning the rail, you can hardly notice it.
Of course, the biggest part of the job is installing the posts. You didn't mention how much fencing you will be putting up, but if it's a fairly large amount I highly recommend a post driver. This one piece of equipment will save you tons of work.
Centaur has the installation manual on their web site.
We rounded all of the corners which added a bit of work (quite the mathematical endeavor to set up the radius and post spacing), but felt it would prevent the possibility of a horse getting pinned in a corner. We installed H braces and diagonals in concrete at the ends and at all gates.
We used the spool tensioners (same color as rail) for the end of each run of the 660 foot roll. There are double barrel or single barrel depending on the need. Each end of the fence, gate or whatever, is wrapped 3/4 around the post and stapled, or is terminated with a single barrel tensioner.
I'll skip the details about measuring up on each post, running string, smoothing out the dips and bumps in the string and then installing the brackets...but this is where you should take your time. I believe the new instructions recommend exterior wood screws for the brackets and I very much agree.
We used a spinning jenny in the bed of the truck. One person drives next to the fence posts unrolling the rail, while the other puts it into the bracket and closes it in. Then it's just a few hours of finishing fastening the brackets, installing the tensioners, stapling the end and you're done.
Sorry if this has been a bit wordy. We have been happy with the results and there is very little maintenance. A tree fell across the top rail in a storm and after removing the tree and retensioning the rail, you can hardly notice it.
QRTRHRS said:
Good point about the electric - we had to do the same.
I tried the wrap method too and found that with the aggrivation and extra maintenance work caused by the twisting I went with the tensioners in all the corners and at all the ends. This lets me make adjustments for tension season to season and keeps the posts from twisting. You may have to reinforce with a angle or H arrangement, however.
-Brian
ShaleniFarm
Silver Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2003
- Messages
- 149
- Location
- SW PA
- Tractor
- Kubota L3830HST; Kubota BX1850; Kubota RTVx1100
We have 5 2+ acre paddocks fenced with this. (2 more to do before winter...)
We are happy with it. 5" Horserail & Horsecote & Hotcote. Run a strand of hot on top & bottom to keep the horses from sticking head through.
www.horserail.com
There are now buckles so you don't have to wrap the end posts. Not sure if I lke that look, though...
We made a "tape dispenser". A 1/2 sheet of plywood with 2x4 sides. Leave a slot at one corner. Set the big spool of rail in there. We put it on a utility cart and pulled it with a golf cart. Attach an end and drive. The big spool will spin on the plywood as it feeds out like tape.... (There is a pic somewhere on the horserail howto site.)
Have fun,
Neil.
We are happy with it. 5" Horserail & Horsecote & Hotcote. Run a strand of hot on top & bottom to keep the horses from sticking head through.
www.horserail.com
There are now buckles so you don't have to wrap the end posts. Not sure if I lke that look, though...
We made a "tape dispenser". A 1/2 sheet of plywood with 2x4 sides. Leave a slot at one corner. Set the big spool of rail in there. We put it on a utility cart and pulled it with a golf cart. Attach an end and drive. The big spool will spin on the plywood as it feeds out like tape.... (There is a pic somewhere on the horserail howto site.)
Have fun,
Neil.
