Cat II rear blade on Cat I tractor

[bullockcm]

I may have found a decent deal on a Cat II Woods 3pt rear blade. My tractor is a Kubota L4240 which of course is only a Cat I 3pt. Looking at the specs on the Woods blades other than being Cat II I think it would be a good fit.

What are my options to make this work or is it better to pass and get a proper Cat I blade since I don't need a blade at the moment?

 

[SLHawkins]

What size is the blade 6', 7', or 8'? If your tractor can handle the blade itself, you can always change the pins to cat I. That's an easy fix.

Hawk

 

[bullockcm]

I believe the blade is a 7'. My main concern was the width difference between the lower arms, Cat I being 26" and Cat II 32". I was unsure if my arms could be safely spread to 32" without risk of breaking something or rubbing on the tires and I am not where the tractor is so I can't measure them.

Would there be an issue of running a Cat I pin in a larger Cat II hole? Seems like overtime it might cause extra wear?

 

[AaronS]

When I attached a Cat II bale spear to the rear of my L3400, the lower arms rubbed the rear tires. That may be a problem for you also. I would buy it, weld new tabs onto the blade farther in from where the original tabs are, set to 26" spacing so it would fit the way a Cat I is supposed to.

 

[SLHawkins]

You can swap out the pins for those with a smaller stud size (threaded portion-CAT II Pin with a CAT I head). Or, you can get bushings so that the a CAT I pin will fit better in the CAT II holes. Tractor supply and your local dealer has all the required accessories. And, yes, do your measurements to make sure you will have the necessary clearances. Don't forget to check the top-link for pin size. You may find that you need some bushings for the top-link pin as well. In your case, you are hooking up a CAT II implement to a CAT I tractor, so you will need to replace the pins. Again, not hard to do or expensive, just check your measurements and clearances. Another thing to consider though, is the weight of the blade. I am not familiar with the LS4240 or the blade in question. Just make sure that the blade won't make your front-end too light when in the raised position.

Hawk

Hawk

Hawk

 

[BKBoiss]

If the pins are on tabs that allow it you may be able to switch for the smaller size like others have mentioned but put the new ones facing in it may give you just enough clearance for your arms.

 

[LD1]

Putting them facing in is one trick. If the way they are mounted allows for it. And if that is too much, or not needed, you can always just turn 1 pin to the inside.

Or with a welder, you can just remake the hitch portion, if the price on the blade is good enough.

Personally I wouldnt shy away from it if it is a good deal. (but I have a welder). A cat 2 blade is likely to be built heavier and last longer than a cat 1 blade.

 

[bullockcm]

I don't have any details on the blade yet, so it may already be gone. In any event I think all of the Woods blades of this size don't use pins like you guys are talking about, they use 2 ears that the 3pt arms go in between, captive I believe is how most people refer to them.

Time will tell. Like was mentioned probably welding new ears on to give a 26" width would be the best solution. No worries about this blade as it is lighter than the frequently recommended Land Pride RBT35 series.

 

[LD1]

Even if they are captive, pins that face inward can be added. As can another ear to the inside of each side, and make it a captive style but with Cat 1 spacing.

Look at how alot of current stuff is made that is either cat 1 or cat 2. It wouldnt be hard to modify.

Here, look at one of EA's box blades. 84" Category I&II XTreme Duty Box Blade by Everything Attachments Look at the 6th picture and how the CAT 1 and cat 2 ears are