Cat 1 hitch - Float like a Butterfly?

[Bob97526]

Hello All,
Hope you can give me some advice. I have a LB 1914 and I would like to know if anyone knows how to lighten the float position for the hitch.

When I'm using the box blade or landscape rake I would like to have a lighter impact. I use my rake to rake large amounts of leaves and smooth out the soil. But, frequently it and the box blade gets too agressive and I wind up taking turf and more soil than I want.

I'm new to the fourm, but have been reading it for some time. The experience of others has really been helpful, I've learned a bunch. THANKS ALL!

 

[zenmek]

Bob,
I don't beleive there is any way to "lighten" the float, float just lets the weight of the implement "float" on the ground. Two things you could try is to change the angle of your implement by adjusting the toplink (try it, it makes a huge difference ) or you could not lower your TPH quite as far down, this would lessen the implement weight actually on the ground (problem is....it will not follow the ground contour as well ). Hope this helps.

Will

 

[Bob97526]

Thanks for the reply Zenmek. I'll try changing the pitch. Perhaps I'm expecting too much from my little Kioti. It seems to do everything else so well that I thought they might have included an adjustable pressure valve. Oh well, it's just a small glitch.
Thanks again for the reply.

 

[YOTI]

Hey Bob, I have seen quite a few threads on mounting wheels on rakes, box blades, etc. Maybe that would be the trick for adjusting your depth.

 

[Reg]

Hello All,
Hope you can give me some advice. I have a LB 1914 and I would like to know if anyone knows how to lighten the float position for the hitch.

When I'm using the box blade or landscape rake I would like to have a lighter impact. I use my rake to rake large amounts of leaves and smooth out the soil. But, frequently it and the box blade gets too agressive and I wind up taking turf and more soil than I want.

I'm new to the fourm, but have been reading it for some time. The experience of others has really been helpful, I've learned a bunch. THANKS ALL!

I think my own expectations of a box scraper were that I would be able to just dump it down and it would somehow "know" how to skim off the high spots and fill the lows. Same with the rake, same with the rear blade.
"Float" doesn't mean float.
BTW, these li'l twaktors just ain't dozers. Don't EXPECT to take off across a hard dry field and scrape off the top 6 or 8 inches (the full width of your tractor's tread) at a 30 degree angle.

Some more seat time, perhaps gauge wheels or skid shoes ?
{plus re-set of expectations (-: }

 

[PUMA454]

Gauge wheels can be purchased separately with your landscaping rake. You will find they are somewhat expensive, like about $250.00 for a pair. They will help to a certain degree but still may lack the ultra-fine raking you may want to do. The real finish stuff will need to be done by hand.

 

[County Sawyer]

Bob 97526, Have posted this before on gage wheels for scraper blade and landscape rake. Caster kits are available from Worksaver. Worksaver Landscape Rakes Good luck, Ron.

 

[laurencen]

For my boxblade I made up some skids, works great, for the rake maybe use UHMW, common puckboard, I tried casters but they allways sink into soft ground where the skid rides on top, remember to make a ramp both ends so when you reverse it can not dig in

 

[Bob97526]

Thank You All ! Your advice has been helpful. I guess I was expecting my little 1914 to act like a big time CAT. with refined controls.

I tried some more clearing today and changing the pitch helped quite a bit. But, more than that just taking it slow and easy and paying attention to the agressiveness of the blade and rake seems to be the best solution.

Again, thanks for the suggestions. I've got a lot to learn.