Cargo Container

[timberwolves]

I have a 40' steel shipping container that I keep my tractor, tools and other items in. I am looking to build a shed type roof off one side of it. I have been trying to research the idea and have seen some ways of attaching it to the container. I just not sure what is the best way to attach the ledger board ? Has anyone done a project like this and care to comment ? Any help or ideas would be great. I was thinking some type of L bracket welded to the bottom side of the I beam and bolting the ledger to the L bracket with the wood resting on the top of the container ? Thanks John

 

[mjw357]

Why not just bolt the ledger directly to the container? Use deck hanger brackets to attach your rafter boards to ledger. I would think the trickier part will be flashing where the roof meets the container.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

One of the problems with starting at the top edge of the container is that from that point out the roof should be dropping and now you end up with a very low shed. You almost need to go up from the container some (a couple of feet?) before you have the roof slant down and away.

Hope that that makes sense to you. I want & need to do basically the same thing.

 

[powerpace]

One of the problems with starting at the top edge of the container is that from that point out the roof should be dropping and now you end up with a very low shed. You almost need to go up from the container some (a couple of feet?) before you have the roof slant down and away.

Hope that that makes sense to you. I want & need to do basically the same thing.

Yes. Go above the containers roof level. More head space.

 

[jinman]

What Brian says about a sloping roof is true if you don't have a high (9-1/2') box or have your box elevated on some type of structure. Otherwise, you can easily go out to 12' to 14' depending on your final height. Around here with no snow load whatsoever, a 1' drop would be plenty, so you would have 8' of clearance or a bit more at your drip edge.

I did a lean-to barn on one side of my container, but also framed over the top and built a raised roof over the top. It's amazing how much cooler your roof will be if you do this. Since the box was only 8' wide, the flat roof sheds water just fine. Water never gets deeper than the ridges in the metal. I framed over the top and then attached my lean-to rafters directly to the frame. I didn't have to drill into the container except on the side by the door to attach a 2x6 to fasten the side purlins to. I did drill along the top, but that was into the square tube that runs along the top edge and doesn't open into the interier of the container. I posted a thread here on TBN, but I just can't find it. I'll post a bunch of photos below so you can see how I did it.

I'll start with the top frame structure. I cut 2x4 blocks and attached a Simpson "L" bracket to them with deck screws. I put a 2x4 along the top of the square tubing and then attached the block with more deck screws so that the "L" bracket sits under the square tubing. I used self-drilling fasteners to attache the bracket to the bottom of the square tubing.

If you choose not to frame over the entire top, I'd use treated lumber for the ledger and screw it directly to the square tubing with long self-tapping screws. I would not screw into the sides of the container unless you feel it is needed. It was not necessary for me to use treated lumber because my wood never gets wet.

 

[jinman]

Here is how I framed in the front wall of the barn without interfering with the doors. In this instance, I set back my purlin stud and drilled and bolted it to the container.

 

[jinman]

After adding metal and interior shelves, I have a very nice lean-to that is half closed in.

 

[timberwolves]

Jinman I found you posts on your project & that is what got my wheels turning. Thanks for posting your pics again. I dont want to put any holes in the container if I dont have to. I like your idea with the L brackets, just not sure if I need to beef up the L brackets. I would not be putting a flat roof on top, just the shed type roof off on one side. The container is 8' high on a big deep bed of 3/4" bluestone resting on 8"X8" RR ties. I was thinking of attaching a pressure treated 2X like your method on top of the container then framing the roof rafters to the ledger. The other end of the rafters will sit on a beam that is supported by posts. I will be using a metal roof. Our snow fall is significant so I am worried about the snow load. Before I do the roof I have to paint the container, cant stand the maroon reddish color. i guess I will use rustoleum ext. paint.

 

[SPIKER]

My Oldest Brother built off of one by starting a peak slightly above center of the container. (Note: It was setup east/west and the "Lean Too" was built off the north side of the container, it was 20' though.)
On the south side the roof was extended UP and inset clear solar windows to add light into the north side of the barn. He said it works great to get extra light in back, the North side was a standard 4-12 pitch where as the South Roof side was much steeper more of a 6/12 or maybe a 8/12 pitch. The North/South Roof covered over the container roof completely and on the north side the roof was probably 2 or 3 feet of clear to store stuff on the container's roof. The roof pitch peak over the container was maybe 5 feet from the very peak to the containers metal.

I think there were some carriage bolts through the side walls that attached some ledger boards to. I only saw phone pics so cant say for sure but didnt see anything through actual roof of the container. looking at the roof line from the container end it sort of looked like a "L" shape with the container in the crook of the "L" if that makes any sense.

Mark

 

[gcp]

I too have a conex container I keep my 4-wheelers and motorcycles in. I don't have electricity so I am getting ready to install solar power because I do have an extreme problem with condensation. What's the best way to resolve this issue? Of course cutting in ventilation can cause security problems....