Cannot figure out this land plane

[durtynacho]

Yet another topic about pulling a land plane / box blade. I have an 8FT Frontier land plane that I am pulling with a JD 4066M. It has adjustable skid shows that I have set so that it cuts more aggressively.

Anyway, I have it attached via an iMatch. I leveled the iMatch when I installed it, and then when I picked up the planer, I had to adjust the top link to level it. I was under the impression that I could just drop the planer all the way to the ground and let it rip. When I do that and begin to pull it, the planer leans forward, and the rear-end of it lifts. It definitely does not remain level to the ground, which is causing me to get crap results. Could the iMatch be the cause of this, and should I connect it directly to the 3-point instead? Or should I have left the iMatch level, and not adjust the planer? I haven't had a chance to test that because I got my ground as good as I could despite the planer leaning forward, and I've already packed it in so I'm not in any hurry to rip it all up again.

In addition to that, the skid shoes leave big gouges in the ground. This happens regardless of the shoe adjustment. To avoid that, I have to lift the planer some, but then I lose the float capability (or do I)?

On the float topic, my tractor has pins on each lift arm that either lock the arms so that it doesn't float, or unlocks them so that the implement can float up and down over uneven ground. With the pins unlocked, I can have the implement raised all the way up and it will still float upward, so do I really need to lower the 3-point hitch all the way down in order to activate float?

I am hoping to just get some feedback so the next time I need to use it, I have better results. Seems every video I watch, the operators just drop the implement and it works great for them. I am not even coming close to having that experience, which I'm sure is operator error.

Thanks in advance for any replies I get!

 

[ruffdog]

The 3pt linkage, pins, and balls all have slop or clearance in them. Adding the imatch does add more clearance points but don't fret. You just need to set your top link much longer so the LP doesn't tilt forward from the friction from the ground. In fact, adjust it so the front of the LP is slightly higher than the rear when engaged and pulling. It is just a pain getting it adjusted if you are working alone and you don't have a hydraulic top link.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Yet another topic about pulling a land plane / box blade. I have an 8FT Frontier land plane that I am pulling with a JD 4066M. It has adjustable skid shows that I have set so that it cuts more aggressively.

Anyway, I have it attached via an iMatch. I leveled the iMatch when I installed it, and then when I picked up the planer, I had to adjust the top link to level it. I was under the impression that I could just drop the planer all the way to the ground and let it rip. When I do that and begin to pull it, the planer leans forward, and the rear-end of it lifts. It definitely does not remain level to the ground, which is causing me to get crap results. Could the iMatch be the cause of this, and should I connect it directly to the 3-point instead? Or should I have left the iMatch level, and not adjust the planer? I haven't had a chance to test that because I got my ground as good as I could despite the planer leaning forward, and I've already packed it in so I'm not in any hurry to rip it all up again.

In addition to that, the skid shoes leave big gouges in the ground. This happens regardless of the shoe adjustment. To avoid that, I have to lift the planer some, but then I lose the float capability (or do I)?

On the float topic, my tractor has pins on each lift arm that either lock the arms so that it doesn't float, or unlocks them so that the implement can float up and down over uneven ground. With the pins unlocked, I can have the implement raised all the way up and it will still float upward, so do I really need to lower the 3-point hitch all the way down in order to activate float?

I am hoping to just get some feedback so the next time I need to use it, I have better results. Seems every video I watch, the operators just drop the implement and it works great for them. I am not even coming close to having that experience, which I'm sure is operator error.

Thanks in advance for any replies I get!

First off, do your lower hitch points have upper and lower connection points on the implement? A customer of mine had this issue with his JD LPGS. If I remember correctly, he ended up using the lower pin locations for the draft arms and the upper pin location for the mast. (top link attachment point) He was having a similar issue where he would raise the implement off the ground and the tail end would drop at least a foot if not more.

As far as simply dropping the implement and going, yes you can do that, but you will find that you get better results if you control the implement height-depth vs just letting it ride on the ground. Try the side links in the float position with the pin heads set vertical, see if you like it or not. My guess is that it will vary with the current conditions- situation where-what you are grading.

 

[durtynacho]

First off, do your lower hitch points have upper and lower connection points on the implement?

That is a great question, and I am glad you asked. My LP does indeed have upper and lower connection points, and my pins were in the upper connection points. I bet if I put them in the lower points, the plane wouldn't want to dive forward as much.

I will drop the draft arm pins down and see if that helps. Thanks so much man!

 

[Gordon Gould]

When I first started using a LPGS I had a standard screw type top link. I found that for my particular set-up the easiest way to get an initial adjustment was to park on a flat spot, drop the LPGS to the ground, and then start lengthening the top link until the front of the LP lifted slightly off the ground and set it right there. If it didn't run level after that initial adjustment it would take a very small change one way or the other to get it right.

gg

 

[Leejohn]

Fix it like finish mower's top link hook up and it well stay flat and float all the time.

 

[oosik]

I normally use my LPGS with the shanks down. Down about an inch below the following two blades. Plop it flat on the ground and go slowly forward. Make any/all necessary adjustments with the hydraulic top link. This implement in conjunction with the hydraulic top link does a fantastic job. My mile long gravel/sand/silt/volcanic ash driveway will "set up" like concrete in the summer. This setup works great.

 

[durtynacho]

Make any/all necessary adjustments with the hydraulic top link. This implement in conjunction with the hydraulic top link does a fantastic job.

I am thinking about getting a hydraulic link. I am concerned about the strength compared to a standard link. I am pulling a 10FT planer on a 66HP tractor and it can get bogged down when going up a hill with the planer full of material. I want to make sure in situations like that I do not pull a piston rod with all that outward pressure on it.

 

[LD1]

I am thinking about getting a hydraulic link. I am concerned about the strength compared to a standard link. I am pulling a 10FT planer on a 66HP tractor and it can get bogged down when going up a hill with the planer full of material. I want to make sure in situations like that I do not pull a piston rod with all that outward pressure on it.

You would actually be trying to compress the cylinder in that situation.

As with anything, its all in how you size it. A 3" diameter cylinder would probably be a good match. And stronger than an OEM threaded toplink for that size machine.

 

[oosik]

My Fit Rite hydraulic top link is three and a half inch. It is DEFINITELY more heavy duty than my OEM screw type.

Makes me wonder - the OP statement - "with the planer full of material". Is he talking about a land plane grading scraper or a box blade?? My LPGS only "fills with material" to the point where it flow over the blades. Even with the blades set an inch and a half below the skids - it's not really that much material.

With the scarifiers down and inch and a half and the blades down the same amount - I can very easily pull my LPGS in 2WD. There IS NOT any great build up of material. It builds up and flows over the top of each blade. My mile long driveway is a combination of gravel, sand & volcanic ash. In the summer it is as hard as concrete. I ALWAYS use the scarifiers.

I have an 7 foot Land Pride LPGS - GS2584. I pull it with my Kubota M6040.