Can I saw lumber for siding for my home?

rockyridgefarm · Nov 25, 2003

The Designer (Mrs. Rockyridge) has called out for real wood siding on our humble abode.I was thinking of a clapboard. Can I cut my logs with a chainsaw mill?

RobS · Nov 25, 2003

That sure sounds like a painful way to go Mike. You'll need a lot of square footage of boards to cover a house so you'll want them relatively thin. You'll loose nearly a full clapboard in sawdust for every one you cut. Can you hire a guy with a portable bandsaw mill for the job? A lot less wood lost to the kerf with a bandsaw /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Egon · Nov 25, 2003

Rob has the right Idea. Bring in or go to a proper mill for that type of cutting.

Egon

GaryM · Nov 25, 2003

I guess there's no real requirements for it, but aren't commercial clapboards tapered? Thinner at the top? Maybe I'm just imagining it.

Slamfire · Nov 25, 2003

For that much cuttin' your saw is gonna cost over $1000. Do you see any savings in that?

bebster · Nov 25, 2003

Does "real wood" mean clapboard or cedar shingles (or either)? Here on Cape Cod we have a lot of cedar shingles, and I've found that if you buy them pre-dipped they last a lot longer. I can recommend some brands such as Maibec

I couldn't imagine cutting your own clapboards or shingles, but putting them up is pretty straightfoward and worth your time.

rockyridgefarm · Nov 26, 2003

OK. I have a gazillion trees. If I don't use some, they will rot and or have to be burned. I COULD take some to the sawmill. But I don't have anything big enough to handle them. I would like to try sawing for post and beam construction on a barn, gazebo, etc. The siding would be another plus.

I am looking at a Logosol Saw Mill, or considering making something similar. Many of my trees are in ravines, where it would be far easier to haul out lumber, rather than saw logs.

As to kerf waste. with the right bar and chain, there is very little. (I know there is a huge debate on the merits of band saw vs chainsaw mills. I was horrified when I first heard of a chainsaw mill. But I am pretty sold on this one...)

jfh230 · Nov 26, 2003

Also keep in mind that siding has to be correctly dried after cutting, some trees and growth patterns yield better siding than others, and the durability of the siding will vary immensly between species. Although on the surface the idea of milling your own siding sounds tempting, you could wind up with a cupped, warped and split nightmare surrounding your house. I'd stick with milling 2"x's and larger which you can use for countless projects. Did somebody say build a new barn to house a new tractor? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Jack

dmccarty · Nov 26, 2003

Rockyridgefarm,

If I had the money I would buy a Logosol. I saw one at a farm
show a few years ago and I was impressed. It cut very
cleanly and the boards where even all the way through.

If you are going to do this, quartersaw the boards. The boards
will be less likely to split when nailed, hold paint better and
last longer. I just got a bunch of magazines. I THINK it was
Fine Homebuilding that has an article on quartersawn boards.
The price for quartersawn was 90 cents verse 10 cents for
flatsawn. I also received my Sawmill and Woodlot magaizne
so I might be confused on which magazine had the article.

Later,
Dan McCarty

lamarbur · Nov 26, 2003

You better have a large area for drying. I think it is 8 to 12% max.. By the time you get done w/chain saw mill, I think you may be able to cut a deal with the local mill. Have him cut say 10,000 board feet and you give him extra trees equivalent to 15K board feet. May be able to kill two birds with one stone.