Can I drill a hole in 15LA loader cross brace?

adlertom · Nov 22, 2004

I have a New Holland 15LA loader, and I would like to attach a bracket to hold some hydraulic couplings to the cross piece of the FEL arm. This is the same cross piece that already has holes drilled in it for the hydraulic line clamps.

I certainly don't want to drill into the loader arms themselves, however I'm suspecting it must be OK to drill into this cross piece, since New Holland has already done it. I would have to make 2 holes approximately 1/4" diameter to attach my bracket.

The bracket wouldn't have much stress on it, it would simply hold the quick couplers and the hoses.

Has anyone done this, or can provide some guidance?

Thanks,

Tom

PineRidge · Nov 22, 2004

Tom there are lot of members here that have drilled holes in much worse places.

All kidding aside if it were my 15LA I wouldn't think twice about drilling the two quarter inch holes for your bracket. I don't think the TBN police will be knocking on your door either.

Pictures are required once you have finished though. that's so we can all learn. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Jimbrown · Nov 22, 2004

Ever look at an airplane or a race car they have holes drilled all over them to reduce weight. Drill as close to center as you can or at least not right on a corner, drill round holes debur and you will never have a problem. Now do try to drill a 3 3/4 in hole in a 4 in arm that might not work too well.

gsxr1100 · Nov 22, 2004

the cross sectional area is sooooo small on it, I would not worry about it. It would need alot of force to break and it would be short on the member (for length). Now Iwould not drill a 2" hole in a 2.5" wide beam. Your "I" needs to be very small.

spencer200 · Nov 23, 2004

The cross member is the same place that New Holland instructs us to mount our house kit when putting hydraulics out to the front of the tractor for implements so you will be fine drilling here.

have_blue · Nov 23, 2004

( I, however I'm suspecting it must be OK to drill into this cross piece, since New Holland has already done it. I would have to make 2 holes approximately 1/4" diameter to attach my bracket. )

WARNING WARNING WARNING!

Some people just pick up a drill and shoot holes in their tractrors and think everything will be fine. Sheesh!

Here's my stern advice on that: The least you can do when you drill the holes is to de-burr them, and squirt some Rustoleum on the bare metal. This will prevent rust streaking or bubbling up the paint job. Have a little respect, ya know? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

adlertom · Nov 23, 2004

Thanks to all for the advice. I'll try to post a photo of the completed install as requested.

Since the bracket will cover the holes, I suppose I could even put a dab of paint or caulk in the hole, prior to inserting the screw, to help prevent rust. I'm using stainless steel screws also.

Tom

thcri · Nov 24, 2004

(
Here's my stern advice on that: The least you can do when you drill the holes is to de-burr them, and squirt some Rustoleum on the bare metal. This will prevent rust streaking or bubbling up the paint job. Have a little respect, ya know? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )

I wonder if Henro did that when he drilled his ROPS?? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

murph

adlertom · Dec 6, 2004

( Pictures are required once you have finished though. that's so we can all learn. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )

It's not finalized yet, but close enough to take a picture (attached).

I purchased the hydraulic coupler bracket from a Bobcat dealer ($15) and bolted it to the FEL cross brace.

I ended up drilling 1/2" holes and used well nuts and 1/4" bolts to secure the bracket. I liked the idea of the well nuts because they allowed fastening without having access to the back side of the hole. I'm not really happy with them however (not sturdy enough) and may end up drilling two more holes on the back side of the cross brace, then passing longer bolts completely through to the far side and securing with a fender washer and nut. I think this will be more sturdy.

The hydraulic hoses are protected with 1 1/2" fire hose, which I dyed black using RIT fabric dye. The lines go all the way to the rear remotes at the back of the tractor. I don't anticipate ever removing my FEL, especially since I have a quick attach bucket, so I wasn't concerned about not having disconnects at the loader arm.

Overall it was an enjoyable project, but given the time I invested, it probably would have been cheaper just to have had the New Holland front remote kit dealer installed.

Now if I could just get the tracter out of FWD /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif . A mechanic from the dealer is coming out later this week to take a look at it.