Calling all/any M-F 231 hydraulic experts

   / Calling all/any M-F 231 hydraulic experts #1  

def38

Platinum Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2017
Messages
674
Location
woods and mountains of Alabama
Tractor
M-F 231S
Once again, I am attempting to add a hydraulic top link to my 231S. I have a new cylinder with check valves and have attached it to the existing hydraulic QDs at the rear of the tractor. I get no action. My 3 point works fine and lifts implements without issue.

There is a TS300 diverter valve (see link) located on the top of the pump housing with lines going to a control valve on the RH fender with lines going to 2 QDs at the rear of the RH fender.

So, how do I get the cylinder to extend/retract?

I'm baffled and need your help.

https://www.amazon.com/TISCO-PART-TS300-ISOLATOR-VALVE/dp/B00BW5Z62Y
 
   / Calling all/any M-F 231 hydraulic experts #2  
Hello. First a few questions. Does the part you ordered only go on one way ?. Could it be faulty ?. Do you get any fluid to the control valve ?. I am not familiar with that model. And have you tried it on all the settings ?. let me know and I will be happy to help if I can.
 
   / Calling all/any M-F 231 hydraulic experts
  • Thread Starter
#3  
The cylinder is a double acting cylinder with ports at each end. It operates in both directions. It can be installed similar to a manual top link allowing installation either way.

There is fluid under pressure at the control valve. The cylinder is free to extend/retract. The cylinder, hoses and fittings are all new and operate normally. I do not suspect any damage or abnormality. (I'm a ME and understand how the system SJOULD operate, where fluid under pressure should be directed and returned).

I have tried all settings on the diverter valve and the control valve as well as reversing the QD lines. No action.

I suspect I have a control valve that is designed for one way only. In order for a double acting cylinder to operate, hydraulic pressure must be able to be directed to either side of the piston with a path for fluid to return to the hydraulic sump, then be reversed (swapped) by the control valve for action in the opposite direction.

The control valve has three detents (positions) with the handle resting at the center position. These positions should be as follows;

1-Center = No flow in either line.
2-Forward = Hydraulic pressure to line A, return flow in line B.
3-Rearward = Hydraulic pressure to line B, return flow to line A.

I'm likely going to have to operate and observe hydraulic flow with the cylinder detached, with the hydraulic lines terminating in a bucket to determine control valve operation and hydraulic flow, a messy alternative.

I was hoping that a M-F owner with a tractor of similar vintage and rear hydraulics might chime in. Tectal, I am not familiar with your model M-F. Thanks for any advice you can provide.
 
   / Calling all/any M-F 231 hydraulic experts #4  
The test you are thinking of doing will work. Another way is to loosen the fittings just enough to make them leak,but not loose enough to spray,has that is dangerous. If you are getting pressure to the control but not to the cylinder, it would have to be something in the control valve. wear eye protection!. Let me know how it goes. Hopefully someone will read this thread who knows more and chime in. Best of luck Bob
 
   / Calling all/any M-F 231 hydraulic experts
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Bob, I contacted the manufacturer of the control valve located on the RH fender of my M-F. Sure enough, as suspected, I have the wrong valve for my application. I have a valve for a single acting cylinder. I need a valve for a double acting cylinder. So, I'm making some progress but its gonna cost me some money for a new valve, amount, as of yet, unknown.

But the fellow at Metro Machine was very helpful. I sent him photos and he ID'd the current valve. If any of you folks have need of some help with a hydraulic control valve, I would recommend these folks.

Once I have everything installed and working, I'll finish this thread with details and a photo or two. But, it may be awhile...I've got some welding work to complete, the Toyota needs wiring for the trailer hitch, the Maytag needs new washer drum bearings and seals, the motorhome needs an oil change and some electrical work and I've got to finish some wiring on the Massey Ferguson. At 80 years old, I don't move as fast as I would like but my work is as good as any electrician, mechanic, engineer.

So, I think we're about at the end of this saga.

Metro Machine and Engineering Corp.- custom machines, industrial automation, hydraulics
 
   / Calling all/any M-F 231 hydraulic experts #6  
Very happy you found the answer. This thread may help someone else down the line. I bookmarked the link and my need their service before my restore of the Massey MF50A is over. Love to see the pictures and follow up when you get the time.
My kind regards. Bob
 
   / Calling all/any M-F 231 hydraulic experts
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Very happy you found the answer. This thread may help someone else down the line. I bookmarked the link and my need their service before my restore of the Massey MF50A is over. Love to see the pictures and follow up when you get the time.
My kind regards. Bob
Roger that.

Bob,

Regarding your M-F 50A, to what extent are you restoring your machine?

I bought mine from a seller in Houston, TX. Mechanically it was in pretty good shape but all the fluids needed changing, especially the transmission oil. It was full of water. I had to take a hammer and cold chisel to get the spin on oil filter off. Other than that, the electrics were a mess but my 2003 vintage 231S is pretty simple in the electrical department. I quickly made friends with the local AGCO parts guy who spent considerable time researching my machine for the correct parts. I find that while my 231S was manufactured in Turkey, it has parts from all over the world. For example, the alternator is a Lucas made in Italy.

I actually needed very little in the way of OE parts. So far, I have about $300.00 in repairs and parts and everything works except the high beam headlamps (I believe the rear of the headlamp bulb connectors touch the front of the radiator fins opening the fuse). I enjoy electrical work...used to operate and maintain gunfire control RADAR in the Navy (it was all vacuum tubes back then).

The radiator had a bullet hole in the center of the core. A local rad repair fellow cleaned it up, soldered the hole and soldered in a new brass petcock ($50.00) and I haven't added any water in 2 years. I run Mobil Delvac 1300 15-w 40 engine oil with a Wix filter. The little Perkins uses no oil and starts and pulls like new.

After I complete the wiring of a rear facing LED light bar (mounted under the top of the ROPS) and get my hydraulic top link installed and working, I'll polish up Fergie and send along a few photos.

BTW, your model 50A is equipped with a 4 cylinder Perkins? That engine is a beast with a 5.00 inch stroke. You must be able to pull stumps with it.

My work is leveling what used to be a field where mules were corralled for use in a coal washer plant (I am in the middle of old strip coal mining country north of Birmingham, AL). So far, I have found remains of a brick building, an old Briggs & Stratton engine, some female clothing (Hmmmm??) and parts of a still.

I'll be seeding Bermuda later this spring after I till in my Berseem clover cover crop, rake up the now exposed junk and do a bit more leveling. Ultimately I want to establish a small orchard (15-20 fruit trees) and then surround the property with either cypress or arborvitaes. So, my 45 HP 231S is just the right size and sips little fuel.

Am I mistaken or is your M-F the early yellow color? I recall the first M-F I saw was a backhoe. It was yellow. Keep us posted as to the progress of your restoration.

Best regards, Dennis
 
   / Calling all/any M-F 231 hydraulic experts #8  
Hello Dennis. Thank you for the reply. I hope to see more of your tractor. Yes it's the early yellow with a backhoe and loader. It sat for a while so new fluids filters. The motor is indeed the 4 cylinder Perkins. That had been rebuilt. Fingers crossed. it has the instant reverse transmission,Again fingers crossed Lol. I checked it out and the boom pins looked great and it doesn't look to be beaten to death, It's a 1974 from the information I can find. I picked up the service manual that will help. I've been looking up parts just in case. Soon has I can I will take pictures of the before and fingers crossed After. Stay in touch. My very kind regards. Bob
 
   / Calling all/any M-F 231 hydraulic experts
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Bob,

Storms passed here (I'm north of Birmingham about 30 miles) without any damage...a bit of wind and a few showers. I see Tennessee got some nasty weather in and around the Nashville area...hope you're OK.

Dennis
 
   / Calling all/any M-F 231 hydraulic experts #10  
Bob,

Storms passed here (I'm north of Birmingham about 30 miles) without any damage...a bit of wind and a few showers. I see Tennessee got some nasty weather in and around the Nashville area...hope you're OK.

Dennis

I live up in the tip of Tennessee here in the mountains. High wind tons of rain, a few roads closed. No loss of life thankfully. I am glad you didn't get any of that very bad weather that hit,close to you. Very sad to see so many homes destroyed and the loss of life. Thank you for thinking of me.We had rain and snow Friday. If nothing else this has been a very strange winter here. My very kind regards. Bob.
 

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