Snow BX2750 Snow Blower Mid PTO Shaft Blow Out

[blackmajicwoman]

Greetings fellow TBNers!

Been quite some time since I posted. Ive been having a recurring issue with my BX2750 snow blower set up for some time. The first time it happened near scared the crap out of me! During a routine snow storm in 2014, I was blowing about 6 of typical New England snow when I started to hear a foreign noise coming front below near the front section of the mid PTO shaft, and in an instant all **** broke loose...well not quite literally, but the forward end of the mid PTO shaft separated from the rear male section that is integral to the quick hitch. I luckily disengage the mid PTO before the uncontrolled spinning shaft caused any damage to the tractor. After bringing it in the garage and inspected the damage, the front universal joint of the mid PTO shaft appeared to fall apart. Ok, no problem!

The spare universal joint was shipped by Messicks within a few days. I pressed the new joint in successfully and installed the mid PTO shaft back on the tractor. Started it up and ran the mid PTO with no apparent issue...problem fixed!

Next snowstorm I was all too happy to get out there to clear the drive, when all of a sudden...yup, same thing occurred. So I guess I didnt really fix the problem, and only merely repaired the mid PTO shaft. Luckily I had purchased an additional differential joint, as the issue resulted in the same front differential blowing apart. So something else had to be causing this failure.

I repaired the mid PTO shaft with the spare differential, and did a much closer inspection to the entire mid PTO driveline. What I found was that the shaft that runs through the quick hitch hitch was loose and could move forward and aft through both pillow block bearings. Seems as all (4) set screws that are suppose to hold that shaft in place were loose. I will note that during initial install a year prior, those set screws were torqued to spec and I used blue loctite. So I reset the shaft, reset the set screws, re-applied blue loctite, and re-torqued and also lubricated all fittings again. I ran the blower for 15 minutes or so in the garage, shut it down and re-inspected all joints and connections to be SAT. Been using the machine and BX2750 with no issues.

Fast forward to this season...installed and inspected all components that make up the BX2750 to my BX1500. The third time clearing the driveway this winter and not even 50 feet into my fist pass and guess what? Aside from the resulting mid PTO shaft and differential blowing apart, the quick hitch pillow block set screws came lose.

I went through the same drill again to reset, re-apply, re-torque.... I placed yet another order to Messicks for a few more differential spares, as well as a new mid PTO shaft (the original has gotten pretty beat up when it’s flapping around uncontrollably during the failure mode).

So asking if anyone might have had a similar issue, and if you truly resolved the issue. Perhaps I need to go through the process loctite and re-torquing every season? Tap bigger set screws? Replace the pillow blocks? Im open to any and all comments and suggestions. Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[Username Taken]

Had a similar problem on a Deere 2305. The U-joint came apart and beat the knuckle itself half to death. To the point of being a little scary. Probably due to not being greased often enough by the prior owner.

Checked, double-checked, called, went on the internet, checked some more.

Deere wanted $800 for a driveshaft that should have sold for about $100. Tops. And... Oh, there's was no fixing it with spare parts. Deere makes sure the splines on their stuff is unique to their stuff and their stuff only. I went to a driveshaft shop and they tried to help but you're out of business unless you have Deere's proprietary yokes/splines to weld to a $10 driveshaft.

Sold it. Never again. Deere can kiss my booty.

I don't know if Kubota uses a proprietary spline or not. Hope not. But Deere does. AT least on the 2305. And there is not substituting. None. Its machined to accept only Deere splines.

At least you can get parts for yours. And hopefully not from an OEM that wants to hold you hostage and shake you down.

Maintenance is so very important because, on some of these tractors, parts aren't always easy to get and if you can get them, they're not easy to pay for.

Sounds to me like something is bent in your driveline and it's shaking itself to death. Or not. But I'd look there first.

 

[mrmikey]

Not sure of the type of set screws you have or clearance available, are they recessed allen head or square. If square or are able to be replaced with square head, can you use tie-wire on the heads?.

Deere wanted $800 for a driveshaft that should have sold for about $100

Doesn't that tic me off when companies do that for no reason other than to be able to rip off the consumer at a later date. I'll spend more money converting something to a standard size than give the bloodsuckers money, yes stupid I know but it pi$$es me off.....Mike

 

[killingitcountry]

Wow. I'll be honest, besides greasing the u-joints and pillow blocks ... I've never given the drive kit in my BX2751 quick hitch a second look - but this makes me want to take a good look. Thank you. Do you have any photos?
-James

 

[JWR]

I'm like post #2 Username Taken... I think there has to be something bent or out of alignment that is causing unacceptable amounts of shaking and bashing around under there. Something is clearly not right ... and better loctite or better setscrews are not the solution.

In some areas (I suspect many, though it may take a while to locate them, surely so in your area) there are driveline shops that specialize in u-joint repair, replacement, shaft straightening, replacement, etc. I know there are shops like this in relatively unpopulated places like W.Va. In your shoes, I would take the whole rig in to one of those shops and have them diagnose the problem. Unless others chime in here with similar problems I have to believe there is something specifically wrong with your machine.

 

[BeezFun]

In your shoes, I would take the whole rig in to one of those shops and have them diagnose the problem.

I agree, I had a problem with the driveline on a bush hog shaking like crazy. Took it to a local driveline shop, they balanced the PTO shaft and it ran like a dream.

 

[blackmajicwoman]

Thank you all for feedback. Sometimes it’s the simple or obvious things that you miss when trying to diagnose a complex issue. While awaiting replacement parts from Messicks, I found the input shaft to indeed be loose, as 3 of 4 set screws in the pillow block bearings loose... but why and how?

After inspection of the mid PTO shaft, found a bend on the order of about 5 degrees on the engine side of the PTO which is consistent to the location of the “PTO shaft” access hole in my skid plate, which is about 30 inch back from the input shaft engagement. I am guessing as the shaft separated from the front input shaft due to input shaft shifting forward, the mid PTO shaft was left uncontrollably whipping around the heavy gauge steel skid plate access hole with plenty of force to induce a bend in the shaft. Going to take a leap of faith and assume I bent the shaft the first time this failure occurred in 2014, as I am going to attribute that failure on me for not initially applying loctite or torquing the 4 set screws properly on the pillow block bearings. So as suggested, I am going to imagine this was enough of a yield to the shaft that caused excessive vibration to cause the set screws to loosen enough to shift the input shaft forward.

I will report back once I get the replacement parts in and everything re-installed PROPERLY! On another note, as I have some spare 1.5 inch OD / 0.188 inch wall DOM steel tubing that I will attempt to fabricate a “spare” shaft after I cut off the yokes from the bent shaft. Bad idea??

I will keep you all posted and thanks for the insight!

 

[JWR]

So is the bent shaft something you can replace and thus in your list of ordered parts ? That would be so much better than trying to straighten it.

 

[blackmajicwoman]

I don’t think the bent mid PTO shaft is repairable. I ordered a whole new complete shaft and 3 universals. Going to attempt to fab up a spare shaft by cutting off the yokes of the bent shaft and welding up to some DOM tube to the same phasing and index of course, then reassemble with the other original parts. Once I get it done, I’ll see how she spins (maybe on the lathe before I assemble the differentials to ensure the shaft it indeed true). Guess I will also make it a point to check the set screws on the input shaft before each use for a while. Again, thanks for the insight.

 

[tslbogger]

If you have enough clearance, buy longer set screw and add a counter nut to lock the set screw

 

[JWR]

If you have enough clearance, buy longer set screw and add a counter nut to lock the set screw

TSLBOGGER -- you must have missed that they found a bent shaft. Longer set screws and counter nuts do not fix bent shafts.

 

[tslbogger]

OP state set screw came loose... maybe bent shaft is the result of the loose screws.

So longer set screws and counternuts can solve loose screws problems.

 

[Dusty]

I believe that you are either not using the Locktite product correctly, or not using the correct Locktite product. I would suggest Vibra-Tite Blue Threadlocker for the set screws. Make sure that there is no oil, grease, or any other contaminates in the threaded holes. I like to clean them with a shot of brake cleaner, and then run my tap through them to make sure that the threads are clean, and then a second blast of brake cleaner. I have been using my snowblower for over 15 years now, and all I do is to properly grease and clean everything. I will say that it isn't show room pretty, but it is as good today as the day that I bought it. I have gone through a number of shoes and cutting edges, but no major mechanical problems, other than those cause by outside forces, such as picking up a rock in the snow that will stop the blower in its tracks, and stall the engine. A couple of years ago, I disassembled the blower to replace bearings, and clean / paint the inside of the blower. I also change the grease in the gear box every year. Those small allen screws need some heat to break the Locktite loose to remove them. As with most machinery, they need love ❤ and attention and they will reward you with a long life of service.

 

[mbazzy]

On my MF GC 1725 my Mid PTO front mount snow blower driveline shaft blew out at the u joint for the transmission coupler. In the ensuing calamity the front blower quick hitch tore away from its bumper mount. Seems the welded square stock rod that creates the lip for the Hitch to mount to the bumper weld split. Wow what a mess, my dealer advised not to rebuild the driveline as it spins at 2000 RPM. A new shaft was $525.00 and I was able to weld the hitch plate back together stronger than stock. They had 3 shafts in stock so I got bit lucky with that and had it back in service the next day.

 

[diesel85]

This is why I like my rear blower with the 540 rpm.

The slower speed helps things last much, much longer.

 

[mbazzy]

i had one of those and it never let me down just hate working in reverse and craning my neck the front mount has not proven to be as robust as my rear 3 point model was.