BX25 Dubbs Technology Light Bar

[beppington]

I'm in, for the finished product ... & more sock peak-a-boo's.

 

[Tachdriver]

Well I got my socks on and went out to finish the job. Today the sun was shinning, still freezing but a good day to finish it off. The way they are installed, I can swing all 4 around to one direction. These are LEDs - so Alternator friendly. Together they pull @ 6 amps, 15Watts each and 1350 Lumen each. I'll test them when it gets dark out.

Here they are, just like in my dream when it all began :laughing:

And they even light up !:thumbsup:

Later

 

[beppington]

Well done! :thumbsup:

 

[aczlan]

Where did you get the lights from?


Thanks

Aaron Z

 

[kday64]

I am new to the BX thing but I am wondering if it is possible to:

1) Remove the ROPS
2) Drill a hole in the bottom of one of the mounting plates
3) Drill a hole in the top of the ROPS
4) Run a power cable up to the top of the ROPS

All this to hide the wires?

~Kevin

 

[Tachdriver]

People have drilled and welded on their ROPS, yes. They have on occasion hid wires inside of it. However the popular consensus of the TBN forum is to draw a line on Safety and not cross it, as I have read over and over. Therefore my project was firstly not to compromise the ROPS. Otherwise I would of been drawn and quartered


Later

 

[Tachdriver]

Where did you get the lights from?


Thanks

Aaron Z

EBAY - search 15W LED lights. Go for the package of 2 for @ $90.

 

[Mounted Madness]

Really nice work. I drilled into my ROPS, but then again, I'm a flat lander here on the prairies, and out of warranty. Wish I'd seen this before I added my lights though. Again, nice work...

 

[kday64]

People have drilled and welded on their ROPS, yes. They have on occasion hid wires inside of it. However the popular consensus of the TBN forum is to draw a line on Safety and not cross it, as I have read over and over. Therefore my project was firstly not to compromise the ROPS. Otherwise I would of been drawn and quartered


Later

Tach,

I agree that drilling onto a ROPS can adversely affect the safety and security provided by the device designed to save your life. That is why was thinking about drilling through the bottom base plate of the RPOS and the top center bottom of the ROPS.

IF the hole size is limited to < 1/4" my engineering background says structual integrity would not be lost. With that said... I am not going to do it.

I live on a hill!

~Kevin

 

[Tachdriver]

I tend to agree that a tiny hole or a small weld won't hurt things. Have at it. I just took a different route and it was a challenge I embraced to accomplish it without the hot work. I could of welded on 4 tabs, touch of spray paint and run the wires in half the time it took me to build this system. But that makes it mean even more to me.:thumbsup:



later

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

GREAT JOB!!!!!!!!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:
What happened to the socks? No more pictures of them. I bet you sold them to someone without even telling they were for sell. Probably someone made a foolishly high offer for them and you sold them to pay for the lights!!!
Since I have a BX25, what's next project?

 

[Tachdriver]

It was time to celebrate a completed job and give the socks a needed rest:thumbsup:

I'd never part with my favorite socks. Those are my workin' thinkin' socks.

Next projects: 1) is a short boom pole for the FEL. Something that won't compromise safety, will be substantial, durable yet lightweight. Quick attach.

And 2) - Something for a rear hitch, to pull things if needed.

Gotta put the socks back on now..


later

 

[mcrimm]

So......Great install and great pictures......but.....how do the lights work.
Are these low watt LED lights gonna fly or should a guy go with Halogens?
Thanks,
Mike

 

[radioman]

it looks like a great build. but I wonder about one thing. Since you used a flat bart stock and there is no lateral support- I think its gonna vibrate while the tractor is idleling. you may experince the lights shaking and its very noticable in the snow. I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure its gonna happen since you got so much weight on the flat bar stock. you might want to add gussets to to bars sticking out reduce the shaking.

now I am gonna miss your socks. Dubbs=socks :thumbsup:

good build overall A+

 

[Tachdriver]

Too cold to check lighting last night. I'll try tonight along with the bvibration check. The bar stock is 1/8", protroducing out 1" from the square U-bolts. The light are also very light.

I have LED AND Halogen lights on my Polaris RZR and the LEDs blow them away.



LAter

 

[GeorgeKG]

Is it a 55W halogen you say is inferior to the 15W LED?

Too cold to check lighting last night. I'll try tonight along with the bvibration check. The bar stock is 1/8", protroducing out 1" from the square U-bolts. The light are also very light.

I have LED AND Halogen lights on my Polaris RZR and the LEDs blow them away.



LAter

 

[Tachdriver]

Is it a 55W halogen you say is inferior to the 15W LED?

No you said that - I said LED blows away Halogen lighting on my Polaris RZR. I have a 35watt halogen upgrade to my RZR headlights and two LED 20" bars. I can turn the Halos on and then ONE bar and it washes out the Halos - period.

Check this site out -
Rigid Industries - LED and HID lights

LEd is more durable, draws less amps, more light - BUT more expensive.

SO - if you care about your Altenator amp draw, and you should - then check out the LED options over mounting 55watt lights atop your tractor.

 

[twinsticks]

Wow nice lights but very pricey .. Would love to have a couple of those 50 inch light bars for my truck but I cant see spending 3000 bucks for them...

 

[Tachdriver]

They are aimed for the ATV/off road market primarily. Look at some of the things they do to them - Beat them, Sink them in an aquarium, shoot them and they still light up !

On a truck with a 100amp alternator you are more suited for 55w beams.





later