BX24 top-n-tilt adjustment and use

   / BX24 top-n-tilt adjustment and use #1  

mpowrd

Bronze Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
88
Location
California
Tractor
Kubota BX24
I've got two questions on the hydraulic top-and-tilt setup I got on my BX24. It's a Gearmore kit installed by the dealer at delivery last Nov, but I've only now started to do any serious box blade and rake work.

I need some advise from someone out there experienced with hydraulic top-and-tilt setups.

In order to get the box blade level, I need the adjustable link "A" all the way up (contracted) with the standard threaded link "B" extended almost all the way. Compare the length of the threaded link in the first photo to the stock BX2350 3PH setup in the second photo and you'll see that I'm not getting very much thread engagement on the threaded link (not good from my viewpoint).

I'm already using the shorter of the two holes in the lower arms of the adjustable link (see photo 3), but though of drilling a third hole about 2" above the other two (as shown in the photo). This should allow more thread engagement in the threaded link. Is this a decent fix?

Also, the service manager at my dealer said that the hydraulic setup is designed to be used mostly in extension, meaning I will be able to tilt the box fairly far to the right (right side down), but not much to the left.

Is this how a top-and-tilt setup should work? Or should I set it up so that with the box level, the hydraulic link is in the middle of its travel?
 

Attachments

  • rear links.jpg
    rear links.jpg
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  • BX2350 3PH.jpg
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  • side link mod.jpg
    side link mod.jpg
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   / BX24 top-n-tilt adjustment and use #2  
The archives of the "Attachments" forum have lots of old threads dealing with how to operate Top 'n Tilt. You might want to search there.

If you don't mind my asking, how much did your Top 'n Tilt cost?
 
   / BX24 top-n-tilt adjustment and use #3  
mpowrd said:
Also, the service manager at my dealer said that the hydraulic setup is designed to be used mostly in extension, meaning I will be able to tilt the box fairly far to the right (right side down), but not much to the left.

I wouldn't say it is "designed" that way. iIwould say that it is what you are stuck with because they couldn't come up with smaller hydraulic cylinder. How big is your cylinder. I think the one from CCM is as small as 4".
 
   / BX24 top-n-tilt adjustment and use
  • Thread Starter
#4  
It was part of the package when I bought the BX24 last fall. I think the kit was about $1400 installed.

I really like the ability to adjust the attack angle and tilt from the seat!

I'll check out the attachments forum as well. Thanks for the tip.
 
   / BX24 top-n-tilt adjustment and use #5  
Looks to me like you would have a binding problem if you drilled that hole 2" higher. You might be able to relocate the upper hole a little.

ron
 
   / BX24 top-n-tilt adjustment and use #6  
mpowrd,
What most do that retain the manual adjustment link is:
1. center the hydraulic cylinder (link A)
2. Adjust the manual link (link B) to the same length as link A.
That will give you an equal amount of adjustment in both directions with the hydraulic cylinder. If this doesn't work it is because the hydraulic cylinder is the wrong length or needs the pin in a different position on the lower yoke of one or both cylinders.
 
   / BX24 top-n-tilt adjustment and use
  • Thread Starter
#7  
JerryG: Thanks. I thought so. I don't know if I can get to equal throw in both directions, but I think I can get close.

638: I think you're right. I need to see how far up I can locate a hole and not bind on the lower arm as it lowers.
 

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