BX2200 starts and runs in START, but not RUN

clwhitt · Jan 23, 2024

OK, this issue has been visited close to a million times on this site (that may be a slight exaggeration), but what I'm seeing is not mentioned where I have looked/searched. The problem, not an unusual one, points to a fault with power to the stop solenoid. I will try the key, it'll start and run in START, but quits as soon as I let off the key. I'll then check the power on the RB wire with a trouble light, which lights up indicating power. On the next attempt to start, every thing is good. Let it sit for a while, then it dies when letting off the key again. Check the terminal again, get power on RB, starts and runs just fine - every time! This cycle just keeps repeating. I've cleaned the terminals at the solenoid, the fuses in the fuse block, replaced the stop solenoid, but I'm still stuck in this Groundhog Day cycle.
The wiring diagram shows a timer, yeah, that's for the BX1800, but does it also indicate another terminal connector - the RB connects to the RG somehow? Where is it if it does? I'm convinced it's a dirty terminal somewhere, and that the current pulled with the 12V trouble light is forcing the circuit closed through the suspected dirt (though wouldn't that be less current than the solenoid, it's an incandescent bulb, but it's also a solenoid - kind of undermines my thinking if that's the case). I suppose it could be the ignition switch - I haven't got around to checking/replacing that.

TIA,
Chuck

Dman1981 · Jan 24, 2024

Your on you way to greatness
My grandson can't keep my running either

LouNY · Jan 24, 2024

I have no clue how your BX is controlled, but my F2000 has a strange control system.
When you shut it down it activates a timer which closes the fuel solenoid to shut the engine down, after the timer times out it shuts the power off which allows the fuel stop to return to the run stage. So it uses a power pulse from the timer to shutdown then releases it for the next start cycle. It had me scratching my head for awhile when I had trouble with the wiring on it after I bought it used,

Eagle1 · Jan 24, 2024

My 2200 fuel solenoid is start coil and run coil both from the ignition. My stock one was acting like that replaced it with an after market and if hard failed weeks later. Put the old one back in and worked fine for a couple years than crapped out again. Installed another after market a couple of years ago and so far so good. Well it did act up during a brutal cold snap, pretty sure it froze some water inside. Resealed the solenoid flange and no more issues.

clwhitt · Jan 24, 2024

Eagle1 said:
My 2200 fuel solenoid is start coil and run coil both from the ignition. My stock one was acting like that replaced it with an after market and if hard failed weeks later. Put the old one back in and worked fine for a couple years than crapped out again. Installed another after market a couple of years ago and so far so good. Well it did act up during a brutal cold snap, pretty sure it froze some water inside. Resealed the solenoid flange and no more issues.

I'm wondering if the after-market solenoid might be bad from the start. Messing around with it this morning, I find "something is different", the Groundhog Day cycle is not repeating, I'm getting the trouble light lit on both sides of the red/black wire connector when releasing from Start, but the tractor still dies. I'm going to mess around with the old one, checking resistances, comparing the two, and if need be, bite the bullet and buy a new one from Kubota ($$$$).

clwhitt · Jan 24, 2024

OK, I'm noticing that if I let go of the key after it starts, rather than turning it back to run (letting it "spring release"), it keeps running (at least on a few cycles so far), which definitely points to the ignition switch (and the previous observations would probably be because I was reaching around front while holding the trouble light, releasing the switch quicker than sitting in the seat). The ignition switch definitely warrants more attention.

clwhitt · Jan 25, 2024

After pulling the ignition switch and checking resistance across its terminals (some across 30 and AC where there should be none), I decided to take the risk of pulling the ignition switch apart to look at the contacts inside. As you can see from the pictures, there was significant corrosion on the contacts. Spraying them with contact cleaner and then lightly sanding the copper with an emery board (don't tell my wife, I used one of hers - it is her tractor, after all), the copper cleaned up nicely. I put it all back together and the tractor starts flawlessly, every time so far.

Steps to do this:
1. Unscrewed and removed the battery cover to gain access to the inside of the dash.
2. Unplugged the four conductor terminal connector.
3. Used Channel Locks to unscrew the bezel off the ignition switch.
4. Removed the ignition switch.
5. After scribbling a line to mark the assembly, I CAREFULLY bent the punched in tabs out, these hold the switch together.
6. Knowing there are spring(s) in there, pulled the switch apart carefully and slowly in a place where any errant parts could be easily found (do this with the key down and the four terminals up - the springs are in the metal cylinder - they won't fly away, but if you take it apart upside down, they will fall out).
7. Sprayed the terminals with LPS Contact Cleaner, then lightly sanded off the corrosion.
8. Once satisfied with the cleanliness, I put the pieces back together, aligning my previous marks.
9. I then held the pieces together with a large spring clamp, and gently punched the metal barrel back into the plastic indents.
10. Satisfied with the security of the two pieces of the ignition switch, I reinstalled the switch in the reverse order of removal.
11. Started the tractor multiple times (flawlessly), then bragged to my wife how awesome I am. She shrugged and walked away. Sheesh!