BX2200 Electrical Problem

[Anonymous Poster]

This one is for all you BX2200 mechanics out there.

I tried to add a strobe to my BX today - I have to mow along a roadside at one edge of my property and am tired of drivers not seeing me. This is one with a mag mount that I planned to have sit on the top of the ROPS.

To cut a long story short, I tried to splice in the strobe to the two spare wires under the BX seat. I checked them first and they showed roughly 12V on them. I believed these wires were for work lamps so would have been safe. The strobe I have draws less than 1 amp.

Anyway, I spliced in the wires and tried the lamp and no flashes. So then I disconnect everything and check the voltage - the wires now show 0 volts instead of around 12.

Get this - I also can't start the tractor. It turns over and fires a couple of times, but won't run. I checked all the fuses under the dash (by the battery) and also the one in the engine compartment. All are good. Lights all work too.

I thought maybe I shorted something out, but can't find any other fuses.

What happened? Do I need to go red faced to my dealer on Monday? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

HELP!

(Well, that wasn't quite what I said earlier - but you get my drift)

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Take the cover off the screen that covers the battery. On the right side, as you are sitting on the tractor, you will see a fuse block. Check the top yellow 20 amp fuse, it is most likely blown. A spare fuse is located in the same fuse block on the bottom. It will start up OK, do not ask how I figured this out... but I did the same as you did 2 times. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

Good luck /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Thanks for the quick reply - that was very fast.

Just went back out and tried that and no luck. Also re-tested the fuses with my multi-meter and they all show as being good.

Aargh!

 

[sandyc]

Isn't there a fuse in the engine compartment....seems to me I saw one near the oil filter when I was doing the 50 hour splash and dash!

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Yup - checked that one too. All the fuses that I have been able to find (next to battery and the slow fuse in the engine compartment) are good.

The plot thickens.

 

[theboman]

You ain't bumped a safety feature...pto or the kill switch is out instead of in....

 

[Anonymous Poster]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
Get this - I also can't start the tractor. It turns over and fires a couple of times, but won't run. I checked all the fuses under the dash (by the battery) and also the one in the engine compartment. All are good. Lights all work too.

I thought maybe I shorted something out, but can't find any other fuses.)</font>

The WorkShop Manuel says "Engine doesn't start" = defective stop solonoid or defective timer relay. Is it possible that you disturbed a ground circuit when splicing into the wire? If current no longer flows to either of these devices the tractor will not run.

Do you hear the fuel pump clicking when you turn the key on? It has a transistor on it so I suppose it could be subceptible to a power spike.

According to the wiring diagram the work light wires should be red/black female connector (positive) and black male connector (negative).

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Try tracking it down from the other direction. It sounds like its not getting fuel. Check for voltage on the fuel solenoid when trying to start. If you don't have voltage there it may give you an idea where to look. As rbarker mentioned the fuel pump should click along also.
Good luck,
DaveL

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Yup - definitely hear the fuel pump clicking along when I turn the key - and it gets enough diesel to turn over and fire a few times. Kicks out some black smoke too. Just doesn't stay running.

Where's the solenoid? I'll test it this afternoon if I can find it - unfortunately I don't have the service manuals.

Womble

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I popped the hood and looked. Its a white nylon connector in the left front of the engine compartment, about 6" below and a couple of inches behind the headlight socket, and connects to the solenoid on the back(?) of the injector pump. It looks like it has two wires through the connector, probably switched 12 VDC and a common. You will have to pull the grill to get to it. Use your multimeter to verify the common (check for continuity to the frame or battery - terminal), put your leads on the hot and identified common, and turn the key to the run position. You should be seeing 12 VDC (I assume that the solenoid is active in the run position, not sure about the timer (?) mentioned in the manual). If you have no power, try to start it with the test leads attached (if possible) to verify that you have a good (or bad) solenoid circuit.
I don"t have a manual, so this is an educated guess, but the solenoid shuts off the fuel on shut down, so it must be powered to allow fuel flow to the pump during start/run operation.
If you can, try it and give a holler back.
Good luck,
DaveL