BX2200 block heater install

rbarker · Oct 11, 2004

Well, I finally got around to installing the block heater in my BX2200. I bought it last winter after having starting problems in the cold. I had read some of the installation problems here and wasn't looking forward to the job but it went like clock work and took me under 20 minutes. Took me longer to find a 36mm socket and 17mm hex key.

One question I had, though was about the cooling system. When I refilled the system I just put the coolant into the overflow tank figuring that the system would draw the excess into the radiator when it got warm. Since this didn't happen it leads me to wonder why they have the levels marked on the side of the overflow tank if the cooling system can't recover fluid from it? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Can anyone clue me in? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

ronjhall · Oct 11, 2004

You may have a air bubble in your cooling system. When your tractor has cooled, open the radiator cap and top off the radiator with antifreeze. Put the cap back on and run tractor until it is warmed up. Level should change in the tank when engine cools.

Inspector507 · Oct 11, 2004

Cooling system will not draw from the overflow unless there is a full level in the radiator and the hose to the overflow. You need to fill the radiator cold and adjust from there.

rbarker · Oct 13, 2004

( Cooling system will not draw from the overflow unless there is a full level in the radiator and the hose to the overflow. You need to fill the radiator cold and adjust from there. )

Thanks! Once I realized it wasn't going to equalize I drained the excess coolant out of the overflow tank and put it directly into the radiator so I'm all set but I was curious as to whether it should have worked differently.

botalvr · Oct 25, 2004

What are you guys using for thread sealer for the new block heater install?
I have some high temp RTV, would that do?
I don't want any leaks!!

Thanks /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Junkman · Oct 25, 2004

I have always been partial to Rectorseal # 5 or #7 pipe thread sealant for many years. ( Rectorseal web page.) After all, this is a pipe thread that you are putting in and the product is designed for pipe threads. The RTV Silicone is designed to take the place of gasket cement. Each product has its proper use and should not substitute the other. I would only use pipe thread sealant, no matter what brand you use. Do it correct the first time and rest comfortably that you will not have any leaks. When the Kubota dealer installed mine before delivery, I noticed that the pipe sealant was blue. I inquired as to what they used and he showed me the can. Don't remember the brand, but the can was clearly marked "pipe sealant".

JWE · Oct 25, 2004

I installed my block heater a year ago and I had problems with it leaking. I called Loctite and talked with one of their Engineers and they recommend Loctite 565 (567 if you can't find 565). It works! I have had no leaks since applying 565 to the threads.

John

LarryG · Oct 25, 2004

When I installed my block heater 4 years ago I just used teflon tape and have had no leaks at all as of yet. I figured that if it hasn't leaked after 4 years it isn't going to. I found the 17mm allen wrench at Sears Hardware right off the bat for about $10 at the time. I then used an adjustable wrench to install.

Ken_CT · Oct 25, 2004

The blues sealant was probably Leak Lock, use often on refrigeration systems- good stuff. Rectorseal also makes very good sealants. The sealant should be chosen for the particular job. Not all sealants work for all jobs. For example Hercules makes a product name Gripp, extremely thick, black, gooey, stinky stuff. Does a great job of preventing leaks, but hope you never have to disassemble it. Locktite makes a variety of products, some with a relatively short shelf life and high price tag. Some are designed for disassembly, some for permanent connection, high heat, vibration, etc. etc .... Don't save money buy buying a bargain sealant. If you have a leak, especialy when there are many joints after the leaking joint, you will regret not buying the good stuff. On a block heater you are not dealing with a lot of pressure, the temperature is around the same as you will find in a home heating boiler, and you are not dealing with any particularly unusual fluid, just anti-freeze. There may come a time when you may need to remove the heater (failure) so you don't want anything permanent. Teflon tape is fine, and there are a couple of different grades of tape They all work the same, some just heavier(and more expensive). I personally like "Locktite PST for stainless & other metals", it's the one in the silver tube. Had excellent luck with it and it disassemble easily. For this application any good quality sealant particularly if it has teflon in it, or for that matter plain teflon tape, will work fine. When tightening, make it good and snug, don't overtighten. You can always snug it up if there is a leak. BTW, I'm no stranger to leaks /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif. Any plumber or pipefitter, who says they've never had a leak either doesn't do much or is misrepresenting the truth /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

frank_f15 · Oct 25, 2004

( Any plumber or pipefitter, who says they've never had a leak either doesn't do much or is misrepresenting the truth .
)
ahmen to that!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif i have used LEAK LOCK for years mostly on refrigeration stuff. found it to be excellent.