bx22 loader valve relocation

[dwenham]

Hi all,
I have a query which I don't seem to be able to resolve through a site search. I have a BX22, which I couldn't be much happier with, with one exception... I got the front-mount snowthrower with it and have noticed the loader valve, which stays with the loader when dismounted, must be relocated to remain with the tractor to operate the hydraulics on the quick-hitch.
I'm sure this topic has been covered in the past on this forum and solutions have been found that, on my own, I might overlook. I'd appreciate a nudge in the right direction from anyone who recalls previous posts about this. At least I'm a few months away from deep snow!
Yes, I do have the 4-way valve.
Thank you in advance for your help with this
Dave

 

[surfran]

You would probably have more luck in the Kubota forum, but here is one post from R Barker about his Curtis Cab which eludes to removing FEL and leaving valve. Hopefully my link takes you to that specific post in the thread, but if not it is on the second page.
Heres one post


Another member SandyC also has the snow blower and discusses the removal in this thread (over a couple of posts to it). You may want to contact one of these gentlemen via a private message and get some advice from them. Or more than likely they will come across this and probably comment.

Another Post

Good luck in any event, it can be done! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[BotaGuy]

If you don' t mind me asking....how much was the snow blower attachment? I have a BX23, and would like to add the blower in the fall.

Thanks

 

[Jim_Becker]

If you look at the loader on the side where the valve is, you'll notice that you can disconnect the loader without removing the portion that holds the valve/control. There are some pins that can be pulled to release the loader. You also need to disconnect the hoses with the provided quick links. They designed it this way starting with the BX22 for the purpose you have on the table.

 

[dwenham]

Thanks for the help. I wonder how tough it is to line everything back up after removing the loader this way, as I have no paved surface on which to park it. Seems like it would be prone to the cylinders being out of sync at the end of 5 months of storage? (snow season)
Dave

 

[pcmem]

Dwenham,

It is a greazzzzzzy mess /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I've tried it two ways and either way is better with another set of hands. The first is to try to dock the tractor back to the loader like you are reattaching the loader and connect the pins back to the loader arm and cylinder. The other technique I tied is to take the joystick off the tractor and connect it to the loader arms, then remount the loader as you would normally. I only tried this method once and went back to the former /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Everything will be out of alignment after the winter. I use a bungee cord to hold the rt cylinder up so as not to strain the hydraulic lines. You'll find you can vary the hydraulic arm extension by moving the opposite side (this is where another set of hands helps). My reconnect method is to drive up to the loader as straight as possible. I've had the most problems from crooked alignment. I then connect up the hydraulics so I can tip the bucket to get the arm connected. The pins are a pain to install and keep the lock hole aligined (you can't twist them). I've put a mark on the outside to indicate where the lock pin hole is but it still causes difficulty.

Here is a link to Woodstock's valve mod from 2001 that places the joystick on the tractor. Might be worth a look.

Have fun,
Michael

 

[vabellman]

I spoke to my local dealer about the same thing. He said a "loader arm with the 4 way valve" can be ordered for about $600. Depending on much your going to use you're front attachements it might be worth looking into.

 

[Junkman]

I was at the Kubota dealer recently and took a picture of the valve on the BX23. It stays with the tractor, so I though about modifying mine to work the same. I figured that it would be as simple as welding on a bracket to keep the valve attached. The more that I look at the way the BX22 valve is installed, I can see that there is no easy solution to the problem without making up new hoses etc. After exploring all possibilities, I think that it might be cheaper to just trade up for the BX23 than to modify a BX22. If someone has any ideas, share them with us and possibly if we all put together our collective thinking we might find a way to devise something that will work. This picture is the valve assembly of the BX23. Note that the way the hoses come off the frame is different than the BX22. This is only one of the differences, and the least difficult to work around.